tim.gilbert23

iTrader: (3)

Right... Not really going to burn it but I am coming to the end of my patience.

99 Classic Scoob. Standard engine.
Had some sort of miss-fire/juddering so cleaned boost solenoid . this did not cure problem.

Took it to independant dealer who changed coils. diagnostics etc. said oil was over full so sorted that but could not get to route of problem. Boost solenoid is fine ( kindly gave me a bil for £80ish to tell me has no diea what problem is)

driving home I loose power. car refuses to rev, and when does is spluttering really bad. Now when i start car in a morning it does not rev at all without spluttering, which is not cured for a good 3-4 mins of sitting at idle for it to warm up. plus car will not got over 50now withough stuttering & spluttering and loosing speed.

Car will be booked in to Zen in new year for permanent fix BUT anyone any ideas?? pretty please

Apoligies for long post

your sincerely

Desperate.

samcowrx

Is it throwing the check engine light up?, have you tried replacing maf?

scoobynutta555

I was going to say maf too. TBH I wouldn't be driving your car anywhere until it's fixed. You could be looking at a bill of 3k if you do.

fatsweaty

mine was doing that after i filled up with tesco 99 in a newly refurbished store near me so when i got to empty i then filled up with BP ultimate which has seemed to cure it for the last 2 weeks,although today filled up again on tesco 99 at a different garage so i will see how it goes.It may have been a dodgy batch of fuel or mix up with fuel etc as the garage has had a lot of teething troubles with pumps,tanks etc.Just a thought though.

tim.gilbert23

iTrader: (3)

no CEL Light... MAF was replaced a few months ago.

the 2nd problem i.e bad cold start only surfaed after it went to see subaru... never did htis before

RON

There's a temp sensor on the block, my bet is that it's knackered... hence it won't run cleanly when cold.....

Well, worth a shot anyway!

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Are the rad fans running when cold? if so then the coolant temp sensor faulty.. but usually accompanied with a CEL.

if not then I would say you have a vac leak somewhere.. split vacuum pipe or intercooler pipe etc.. inlet manifold gasket leak etc.. or an injector O-ring.

Simon

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

only other thought is MAF died and the garage reset the ecu, so it is not longer learned to the faulty MAF making it run worse..

Simon

STI Craig

i think defo sounds like a electronic problem, and the ecu should give you a fault code, i did have a link to a site that tell you how to get ecu codes but i cant fing it..... doh


im sure some one else could give u a link tho.......

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

ECU Reset and Error codes
Turn OFF the ignition

Connect Error code Connectors and Test Mode Connectors :
2 black connectors under dash, connect black to black and 2 green connectors under dash, connect green to green, they are by your left knee when sat in the drivers seat and often taped back to the loom if they haven't been used before.

Turn ON ignition but don't start the engine

Engine Check lamp comes on

Press accelerator pedal to the floor

Then return it to the half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds

Release foot off the pedal completely

Start the engine

Check engine light error code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If an error is detected then Check the ECU Code

If no error is detected - drive the car sensible for a couple of minutes
i.e. until warm (do not use boost or high rpm!)

When the ECU has been reset the Check Engine Light will flash

An Error Code is indicated by a flashing check engine light
of varying length of flash,
a flash of around once a second is the okay code and indicates all is well.

If an error code is detected Check the ECU Code

Turn ignition OFF and Disconnect Connectors

If there is a fault Check the Appropriate Sensor

Error Codes
An Error code is defined as a slow flash followed by fast flash
i.e 2 slow and 3 fast = 23 Mass Airflow sensor.
A continuous on/off at the same speed is no fault found.

Code Fault
11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 Starter switch

13 Camshaft position sensor

21 Engine coolant temperature sensor

22 Knock sensor

23 Mass air flow sensor

24 Idle air control solenoid

31 Throttle position sensor

32 Oxygen sensor

33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

35 Purge control solenoid valve

42 Idle switch

44 Wastegate control solenoid valve

45 Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve

51 Neutral position switch

tim.gilbert23

iTrader: (3)

A thousand thanks for the replies so far.

No ECU error codes i am afraid. 1 garage says its something mechaincal. I have no idea.

Zen is about 80 miles away, but as u can understand i don't wanna drive it there if its going to die or by limited to 40-50mph.

the same what can only be described as pwer loss occurs when the car is cold as when the car is at about 50mph.

Merry Christmas to everyone by the way.

DeanF

iTrader: (1)

Fooked 02 / Lambda Sensor giving sh!te cold running & the occasional problems when hot, almost like your running out of fuel & trying to drive through it, V bad splutters, hesitation won't pull Etc, The lambda does not always throw a cel either, But from what you are saying it is now doing this constantly, So does sound like an induction leak some where behind the Maf.

Try unplugging the Lambda & then starting to see if it makes a difference

Dean

tim.gilbert23

iTrader: (3)

where is the lambda ? the lamba readings on the emissions test when motor had MOT only just passed the guy said.

a thousand thanks

tim

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

On that MY pretty sure it's in the downpipe behind the turbo. Just trace the wiring back to the plug and unplug it.

It does sound like it 'may' be that. I had the same symptoms on my type r and pulled the lambda plug and it drove fine.

tim.gilbert23

iTrader: (3)

cheers mate.

anyone got any pics where it might be? will car be fine running without lambda plugged in ?

thanks in advance

st3v3

fooked lambda would thow up a cel light or a code of somesort,or should do.

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

Locate the turbo and just follow the downpipe back from it, the lambda will be sitting proud in there for you to see


Funny you say that but I'm almost certain mine didn't as it was the first thing I checked when mine went like this.

st3v3

Oh well we can only do what we can only do and time will tell,
just in case some codes are thrown up in the future, depending on which car it is you can check here:
Subaru OBD Trouble Codes

tim.gilbert23

iTrader: (3)

will the car by ok running without the Lambda sensor if it is this thats the problem?

Gradea are closed until the 3rd so can't get one until then

thanks again

tim

DeanF

iTrader: (1)

A fooked Lambda will not always throw a Cel, On Bugeyes & blobs it will but earlier models seem to be more tolerant with the voltage scale.

Dean

st3v3

I stand corrected

DeanF

iTrader: (1)

Car will be using the base Map & not using the lambda for open loop fuel/Air correction. It is not a fix just for elimination purposes.
SOme info here
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-suitable.html
Dean

stevem2k

You can unplug the lambda and it will still run ok ( some would say better ) until you get a replacement.

It might throw a CEL eventually , but nothing to worry about.

ZEN Performance

It sounds like it could still be a MAF sensor, even if it's been changed, there can be things (contamination/shocks mainly) that cause them to fail. Without fixing the route cause, you might just keep blowing MAF sensors.

To check to see if the MAf is failing, unplug the MAF before starting the car, it sould run okayish STRICTLY OFF BOOST. if it is still struggling then further avenues to explore are earthing issues, split inlet/intercooler pipes, blocked CAT, unplugged or dead water temp sensor.

My gut feeling is MAF, reseting the ECU with a failing MAF will cause it to run worse, as it will build up some long term correction as it fails, it doesn't do much for on boost running though so be careful.

Is the car COMPLETELY standard? are there ANY mods? Induction? Earthing? Miracle cure valves?

Paul

bonerp

sounds like a maf to me. Had similar problem on a car couple of years back. No fault codes but a dog to start when cold and ran bit rough. Sure enough, tried new maf all ok. Could try cleaning the old one first? Some electrical cleaner will see if it improves things, esp if you use an oil soaked foam filter.

They are fragile so be gentle fitting the new one!!!

Paul

stevey

iTrader: (2)

mine did the same ended up it was the maf which failed, which then caused a major missfire which in turn blew the lamba sensor all good when your doing 80ish down the a1

prana

pretty sure maf wont throw a cel unless it reaches a threshold output voltage, approx 4.7v or so. My vote goes to MAF or Lambda too, though you should be able to find some stability with the MAF unplugged if it is MAF. Not sure if lambda is important in open loop but it appears you are having this problem at open loop too.

jasonl

check all the breather pipes are connected propely to the maf to turbo pipe. i had a cold start problem, would not run at all when cold and a bit better when warm. got round to lifting the bonnet, to see the big breather hose had come off the resonator. the car was getting more air than the maf said it was.

tim.gilbert23

iTrader: (3)

Yes the engine is completely standard apart from a after market blow off valve.,

tried to find the MAF this morning...is it connected to Airbox?


thanks

Tim

wah

with yellow cirle round it