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buying a turbo 2000 couple of questions

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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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Question buying a turbo 2000 couple of questions

hi folks thanks for looking, i am looking at a very clean and tidy turbo 2000 w reg and the boost gauge is active (lit up) but is not reading the boost which i presume means the pipe must not be attached properly, an i right.

the main question is. . . .when the car is idling it is sitting at about 1000rpm the dropping to 750-800ish and rising back to 1000, up and down up and down constantly. does the idle setting need reset or is this something more than that. looking to buy it next week depending on this idling issue??

please help

cheers Drew
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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should n't be doing it so does point to a problem of some sort, might be something as simple as a sensor but needs sorting before yo buy it just incase.

if in doubt walk away, plenty of very nice scoobs out there
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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if the idle is moving about could be the MAF as well possibly or another lose connection/sensor. has it got an induction kit at all, cos MAFs tend to go quicker with them fitted on uk turbos. hope this helps mate. good luck with your purchase and like the other chap said lots of nice scoobies around.
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 11:46 PM
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no just the standard air box, may be a different filter within it but that shouldnt make a difference. so you think MAF is my best bet you think?

cheers Drew
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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I own a 99 UK Turbo.

To be honest if i was you i would budget a new MAF and Lambda into your purchase of any MY99/00 impreza because at some point in the future you are going to need one and it will be probably best you do it now.

Although i would not advise buying a MY99/00 with a fault as there are loads of them about. You may aswell buy a working one.

Why is the current owner selling the car?

Originally Posted by drewzer
the main question is. . . .when the car is idling it is sitting at about 1000rpm the dropping to 750-800ish and rising back to 1000, up and down up and down constantly. does the idle setting need reset or is this something more than that. looking to buy it next week depending on this idling issue??
My car has had this problem and replacing the MAF and Lambda along with an ECU reset fixed the problem cost circa £130 for parts

Craig

Last edited by Heple; Dec 12, 2006 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 12:03 AM
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Unplug the MAF with the car running if it carrys on running the MAF is shafted!
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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thanks for the help guys, going to have a look at another one as well anyway. could get this one for cheap if it was the sensor but then again you have to be certain it is or your in deep turd when the reddies change hands
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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oh yea can you show me a photo or a description of where the Maf sensor is located, and do i just twist and pull it out?

cheers guys, Drew
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by drewzer
oh yea can you show me a photo or a description of where the Maf sensor is located, and do i just twist and pull it out?

cheers guys, Drew


You can unplug the connector to it to test it.

But

To remove it you will need to use a security torx bit to unscrew the two securing screws.

Craig
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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BINGO! top bloke thank you very much mate!

cheers Drew
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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Guy's, This just sounds like the gauge has become disconnected and is causing the engine to draw air in from where ever the leak is. This will cause the eratic idle. I've had to change a couple of MAF's before, in both cases the ECU has detected a problem and stopped the car from running any boost. Check out the link for error codes recorded in the ECU, if the MAF is causing problems you'll be able to see it by doing the simple diognostics test.

Main Heading Goes Here

Good Luck!

Martin.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by martsmithy
Guy's, This just sounds like the gauge has become disconnected and is causing the engine to draw air in from where ever the leak is. This will cause the eratic idle. I've had to change a couple of MAF's before, in both cases the ECU has detected a problem and stopped the car from running any boost. Check out the link for error codes recorded in the ECU, if the MAF is causing problems you'll be able to see it by doing the simple diognostics test.

Main Heading Goes Here

Good Luck!

Martin.

I'd agree the pipe for the gauge has come off or split causing un-metred air to be drawn in
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbotits
I'd agree the pipe for the gauge has come off or split causing un-metred air to be drawn in
Agreed.

Check the pipe and do an ECU Error Code test.

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Reading ECU Fault Codes browse

Craig
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 11:40 PM
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and ill third it
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 11:41 PM
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lol forth it
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