Engine Swap
#1
Engine Swap
Hey guys looking for some advice here.
My car is a version 2 (MY96) WRX STi but for some reason or other has a version 1 WRX lump in it!!!
After talking to Zen Performance I've decided the best way to go would be to find a STi lump to go into my car which i could then get Zen to do up. They advised getting a v3 or 4 STi engine but from speaking to some breakers they have all told me that this will not fit and to get a version2!? They also said that i could go down the 2.5 conversion route.
Which way do you guys recommend going down? I've got a budget of about £3500 so any suggestions welcome!
Thanks
Wayne
My car is a version 2 (MY96) WRX STi but for some reason or other has a version 1 WRX lump in it!!!
After talking to Zen Performance I've decided the best way to go would be to find a STi lump to go into my car which i could then get Zen to do up. They advised getting a v3 or 4 STi engine but from speaking to some breakers they have all told me that this will not fit and to get a version2!? They also said that i could go down the 2.5 conversion route.
Which way do you guys recommend going down? I've got a budget of about £3500 so any suggestions welcome!
Thanks
Wayne
#2
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why not just get a built engine using your block. Source some v3 heads, use forged pistons, rods etc, new crank (maybe not needed), uprated bearings and that would be better than a 2nd hand sti lump. Should leave a bit of change out of 3.5k maybe for a power fc fitted and mapped
#4
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If its an early wrx lump then there is a good chance that it is a closed deck block. Even if it isnt closed deck a 2ltr block is still capable of over 400bhp with the relevant mods.
The blocks I believe are similar throught the range, think they changed on the phase 2 cars (something to do with crank journals). If you got the 2.5 from flat4 then you would still need to source heads as well. People reckon it is safe to have 350bhp 350 torque with standard internals on the 2.5 so you can leave that as is. Some people like to loosen the piston clearance up a touch though as they are supposedly tight within the bores. For the ideal setup you would probably want to have the heads machined to suit the 2.5 as well (unless you got stock 2.5 heads). Depending on what turbo you have now though, the 2.5 may feel a little bit weezy (supposed to be a nice drive with a tdo5 20g).
So in short, determine you goals (power output, driveability, reliability) and maybe speak with Zen again, let them know your budget and your requirements and they will be best placed to advise you (I say Zen as you have already spoken with them previously but obviously there are other specialists as well)
The blocks I believe are similar throught the range, think they changed on the phase 2 cars (something to do with crank journals). If you got the 2.5 from flat4 then you would still need to source heads as well. People reckon it is safe to have 350bhp 350 torque with standard internals on the 2.5 so you can leave that as is. Some people like to loosen the piston clearance up a touch though as they are supposedly tight within the bores. For the ideal setup you would probably want to have the heads machined to suit the 2.5 as well (unless you got stock 2.5 heads). Depending on what turbo you have now though, the 2.5 may feel a little bit weezy (supposed to be a nice drive with a tdo5 20g).
So in short, determine you goals (power output, driveability, reliability) and maybe speak with Zen again, let them know your budget and your requirements and they will be best placed to advise you (I say Zen as you have already spoken with them previously but obviously there are other specialists as well)
#7
Hi. Just make sure you do your sums carefully. I had a rebuild and that cost just over £3000. If I had gone for a 2.5 it would have been a lot more because I would have needed an ECU as well.
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