moneys

iTrader: (5)

Hi i have what will shortly be a full de-cat on my wrx 01 (up-pipe next week being done) and was wondering if its worth getting it heat wrapped? will i really notice the difference and is it absolutely essential
cheers ste

360ste

iTrader: (1)

Heat wrapping the manifold, up-pipe and down pipe is a good idea as it helps keep the engine bay temperatures down. Also it adds a bit of protection from heat for cylinder 3 which the up-pipe runs next too. Not worth going to far back in the system as you will rip it off going over speed bumps. I am having to redo a section as passing over a local small square speed bump is wearing it through.

sharpydoo

dont mean to hijack your thread moneys but does anyone have a guide for wrapping, what is the best technique etc.

360ste

iTrader: (1)

Do a search for the "DEi heat management" I think you can download the instructions from there. Hope this helps Steve

GariYaRally

Another reason is to keep exhaust gasses hotter, the hotter the exhaust gasses the quiker they flow meaning more power!

moneys

iTrader: (5)

so is it esential? as i want to get my car mapped soon and i,m saving all the money i can so if heat wrapping doesn,t make much difference i,ll save my money and put it in the re-map piggy bank instead

evalscooby

for the extra couple of quid the wrapping is worth doing in my opinion. apart from the heat issues mentioned it will protect the SS pipe work from heat shock. due to its position a splash through some rain onto a 300 deg c bit of steel is a likely event in winter and could cause it to crack. thats why the heatshields are all over the cast item.

Trap2Terrorist

iTrader: (3)

I've recently had my MY01 WRX decatted/remapped and I wrapped the up pipe and down pipe, however I don't think it's essential.

My main advice would be:

1) Buy more wrap than you think you'll need, (longer and wider).
2) I bought this stuff off eBay and it was only just enough for the two pipes (120016314158).
3) Soak the wrap in water before wrapping, it helps to get a good tight wrap.
4) Buy some extra, good quality, metal cable ties before wrapping, the ones supplied are not enough.
5) Bind with metal wire after wrapping to help ensure it doesn't come loose.



p.s Buy a pair of marigold (rubber) gloves for when you wrap the pipes, the heat wrap material causes skin irritation if you do it with bare hands.

corradoboy

More than a couple of quid but a guy I know offers ceramic coating. He's just in the process of producing some before and after figure to justify the expense, but can do the headers, UP, DP and turbo housing. A mate had the UP & DP done and it insulated well enough that I could hold the bottom of the DP with my bare hand shortly after he'd pulled into the car park. Permanent and durable, but a little pricey at about 100-180 per application IIRC. If you're interested I'll pass on his details.

MaDaSS

I won't post what i paid for it then if you think that is dear! lol.
And it was a damn sight more than that.

richbaker78

i had similar dilemmas regarding the wrapping/ heat soak issues...in my application the downpipe is very close to some components...the cost of wrapping a 3 inch pipe seemed a lot so I looked at ceramic coating instead as its more durable and doesnt hold water as wrap can. (you should also spray your wrap in silicone based spray)

After a fair bit of looking about I found a local company Bristol Metal spraying that do the job (other comapnies were camcoat (midlands) and Zircotec (oxford) but BMS were most competitive and transparent on their coatings ability and even gave me samples and a tour of the factory). BMS were the most competitive and offer 2 levels of coverage.....

Zirconia (40%) heat reduction - as used on Rolls royce jets/ F1 manifolds and Alumina which is 20% reduction. To give idea on prices i think it was about £150 to do all (from turbo back) in alumina and £250 to do all in zirconia. or if like me you can do 1/2 and 1/2 to save £.

not really the cheapest option but prob more durable than wrap..not really an answer to your question but a little more info to confuse you even more

moneys

iTrader: (5)

thanks for all the reply,s lads. cos i wasn,t to sure about the importance of the heat wrapping i thought it was a waste of time but now i,ll definatly be getting it done when the car go,s in next week
once again thanks lads
ste

funkyspider

Surely if heat wrapping was so important the standard up/down pipes would come wrapped from the factory. The PPP cat downpipe has a small thermal jacket on, but its not a full wrap.

Not saying you are wrong, and I'm sure its not a complete waste of time, I'm just asking. Id also be interrested to know how good the thermal wrap tape is that you can buy

360ste

iTrader: (1)

The standard exhaust system is a compromise of performance and noise reduction. To reduce the noise a higher level of back pressure is produced by the catalytic convertors and baffles. One result of this is only a percentage filling of the cylinders with new fuel and air. The PPP is still a bit of a compromise so the same thing applies. When you fit your aftermarket exhaust the back pressure is reduced to a minimum and therefore more fresh petrol and air is burnt. This causes higher combustion temperatures which heats the exhaust more and can be detrimental to the surrounding area's. Thus the requirement for heat wrap.

moneys

iTrader: (5)

damn you beat me to it i was just about to say that

oldhat

It's pretty simple. I just DIY'ed my downpipe last weekend with no experience or guide. Get a 50'x2" roll of Thermo Tec heatwrap or similar. I used a USDM HKS downpipe and it took nearly the entire roll.

WEAR GLOVES AND LONG SLEEVES! The wrap has fiberglass in it and it will itch and burn a lot if you get the particles stuck in your skin. Make sure the downpipe is clean and free of grit. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol or something similar.

START AT THE BOTTOM! Just like re-shingling a house, you want to start at the bottom or else water will leak in between the pipe and the wrap. Get a 3" stainless hose clamp and cinch off the end, then wrap going upwards. Double over half of the previous turn and keep going in a spiral. It's a little tricky around the bends but just pull TIGHT and it will stay. Go all the way to the top and cinch off the other end with another stainless hose clamp.