Det or faulty Knock sensor
#1
Det or faulty Knock sensor
One for the tech guys,
I have MY99 UK Turbo, PPP ECU ported headers, Harvey uppipe, freeflow cat, and exhaust.
Were any modifications added by the dealer to some cars, to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor due to noisy engines.
The problem I have is, after I re-set the ecu the car seems to pull really strong gets up to 1.1 bar of boost really quickly.
Then after a period of a few days this performance tends to tail off, it’s as if the timing is being pulled back due to knock.
Knock link shows no problems, and I have replaced the MAF.
Could it be a faulty knock sensor?
Better still has anyone got any way of logging this with delta dash, I am in the Manchester area.
I have MY99 UK Turbo, PPP ECU ported headers, Harvey uppipe, freeflow cat, and exhaust.
Were any modifications added by the dealer to some cars, to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor due to noisy engines.
The problem I have is, after I re-set the ecu the car seems to pull really strong gets up to 1.1 bar of boost really quickly.
Then after a period of a few days this performance tends to tail off, it’s as if the timing is being pulled back due to knock.
Knock link shows no problems, and I have replaced the MAF.
Could it be a faulty knock sensor?
Better still has anyone got any way of logging this with delta dash, I am in the Manchester area.
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
The mods you have may be causing the ECU to pull back a bit of timing.
when you reset it it will try to run max timing, then retard a certain amount defined by the advance multiplier.
If you can get a copy of deltadash running on it, you can check whether the advance mutliplier has had to change from it's default setting (which IIRC is 16).
Editted to Add :
This parameter is labelled 'Advance Multiplier' in DeltaDash and its value ranges from 0 to 16. It is the number of sixteenths of the advance map that the ECU is willing to use, 16 being good, 8 being neutral and 0 being very bad.
when you reset it it will try to run max timing, then retard a certain amount defined by the advance multiplier.
If you can get a copy of deltadash running on it, you can check whether the advance mutliplier has had to change from it's default setting (which IIRC is 16).
Editted to Add :
This parameter is labelled 'Advance Multiplier' in DeltaDash and its value ranges from 0 to 16. It is the number of sixteenths of the advance map that the ECU is willing to use, 16 being good, 8 being neutral and 0 being very bad.
Last edited by Scott.T; 08 November 2006 at 12:56 PM.
#3
Thanks for the info, is there a problem with running delta dash on a MY99ECU?
Not sure how the software works, is it locked to a Licence?
Does anyone know, of some cars suffering from knock being too sensitive, I take it uses this to determine how much timing is being pulled.
Not sure how the software works, is it locked to a Licence?
Does anyone know, of some cars suffering from knock being too sensitive, I take it uses this to determine how much timing is being pulled.
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Deltadash works fine on MY99. The retail version allows connection to a few types of ECU (maybe 4) before locking.
When I upgraded to a VF28 and ran it at 1.2bar with a TEK2 TD04 ECU, it ran fine, but the advance multiplier had pulled back to 8, so it was only using half the available advance map. Went well though...
I didn't notice any knocklink activity but the ECU had obviously seen something.
When I upgraded to a VF28 and ran it at 1.2bar with a TEK2 TD04 ECU, it ran fine, but the advance multiplier had pulled back to 8, so it was only using half the available advance map. Went well though...
I didn't notice any knocklink activity but the ECU had obviously seen something.
#5
Hi Scott thanks for that.
I didn’t realise that the delta dash software only allows you to look at so many ECU's.
Looks like I may be in for a re-map then.
I would just like to be able to see if the knock sensor, is giving out the wrong level, that being over sensitive.
How do they normally fail?
Knock link shows no knock, and it’s set to be sensitive.
I suppose one way would to unplug the thing for a test, will this then just go to default timing?
I didn’t realise that the delta dash software only allows you to look at so many ECU's.
Looks like I may be in for a re-map then.
I would just like to be able to see if the knock sensor, is giving out the wrong level, that being over sensitive.
How do they normally fail?
Knock link shows no knock, and it’s set to be sensitive.
I suppose one way would to unplug the thing for a test, will this then just go to default timing?
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
If you disconnect it it should throw a CEL.
Not sure if it goes into limp home mode.
If it doesn't it will run max advance as it won't hear any response from the knock sensor.
You could try the OpenECU (Main Page - OpenECU) ECUExlporer software (which is free) as that may do the same as deltadash. You will need to get the required cable though.
I havn't used it yet myself as I have an Apexi PFC now.
Not sure if it goes into limp home mode.
If it doesn't it will run max advance as it won't hear any response from the knock sensor.
You could try the OpenECU (Main Page - OpenECU) ECUExlporer software (which is free) as that may do the same as deltadash. You will need to get the required cable though.
I havn't used it yet myself as I have an Apexi PFC now.
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#8
Thanks Scott
Will try that, I will have to purchase the cable to the lap top.
If the ecu needs re-flashing, looks like I will be looking at a tek3 and a mapper.
I would just like to prove it's not the knock sensor, may have to purchase one to prove it that way.
The car is my every day car, and only runs the standard turbo TD04.
I like the drivability.
Will try that, I will have to purchase the cable to the lap top.
If the ecu needs re-flashing, looks like I will be looking at a tek3 and a mapper.
I would just like to prove it's not the knock sensor, may have to purchase one to prove it that way.
The car is my every day car, and only runs the standard turbo TD04.
I like the drivability.
#9
Hi Bob.
Thanks for your input, it is installed on its own knock sensor, I installed it and extended the leds, so I could put them in view on the boost gauge.
Electronics is my trade, the knock link works fine, what symptoms do you get when the knock sensor fails but does not throw up a cell?
If i run without one connected for a test will this throw up a cell? and does it put the ECU into a default knock correction, to fail safe and protect the engine?
Sorry for so many questions, you never stop learning.
Thanks for your input, it is installed on its own knock sensor, I installed it and extended the leds, so I could put them in view on the boost gauge.
Electronics is my trade, the knock link works fine, what symptoms do you get when the knock sensor fails but does not throw up a cell?
If i run without one connected for a test will this throw up a cell? and does it put the ECU into a default knock correction, to fail safe and protect the engine?
Sorry for so many questions, you never stop learning.
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