explanation of the boost solenoid
#1
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explanation of the boost solenoid
the more i understand it the more chance i can sort out my car how dose the boost solenoid and the other little gizmo next to it effect boost fuelling etc.. if there is any links that anyone knows it would be much appreciated
#2
The boost solanoid valve has been mentioned widely on this site as it is prone to sticking. I have a 97 classic which cut out momentarily on full throttle.this was because the previous owner had it overfilled with oil and it worked it's way to the switch . Symptoms ( other than cutting out ) include a sound similar to someone blowing across a bottle top or a cow mooing !! Mine made exactly that noise at about 3000rpm .As for fixing it ,i've read cleaning it with brake cleaner works but I did that twice to no avail .From your previous post re cutting out this could be the cause
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Originally Posted by bubble arch
The boost solanoid valve has been mentioned widely on this site as it is prone to sticking. I have a 97 classic which cut out momentarily on full throttle.this was because the previous owner had it overfilled with oil and it worked it's way to the switch . Symptoms ( other than cutting out ) include a sound similar to someone blowing across a bottle top or a cow mooing !! Mine made exactly that noise at about 3000rpm .As for fixing it ,i've read cleaning it with brake cleaner works but I did that twice to no avail .From your previous post re cutting out this could be the cause
I used carb cleaner to clean mine then gave it a squirt of WD40 when i was done- works a treat.
Craig
#6
You're right although despite my best eforts I never managed to find these 2 wires under the dash so did it with the switch off the car. If you can help I'd (we'd ) be grateful.
97 classic
97 classic
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If the wires have not been used before they will be taped up into the loom.
It will require you to look under the dashboard near the steering column with a torch to spot the wires. (2 Green 2 Black - Unplugged) you need to pull them away from the loom and connect them together then turn the ignition on.
You will hear the fan blowing and see the "Check Engine" light on the dash flashing when it is done.
Craig
Pic here
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads..._connector.gif
It will require you to look under the dashboard near the steering column with a torch to spot the wires. (2 Green 2 Black - Unplugged) you need to pull them away from the loom and connect them together then turn the ignition on.
You will hear the fan blowing and see the "Check Engine" light on the dash flashing when it is done.
Craig
Pic here
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads..._connector.gif
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#9
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apperently it is the 2 two green connectors under the dash you put together and then the solenoid should click well mine dosn`t i dont know if this is to do with me having a link ecu and thus the joining the two connectors is useless
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Originally Posted by X SOOOBY
apperently it is the 2 two green connectors under the dash you put together and then the solenoid should click well mine dosn`t i dont know if this is to do with me having a link ecu and thus the joining the two connectors is useless
Craig
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It vents pressure at the wastegate back to the inlet, keeping the wastegate shut and allowing higher boost pressure. It pulses open and shut to maintain the target pressure.
Without it, the wastegate would open at its set pressure which is about 7psi, as opposed to the 14psi it would run with it working.
If its stuck open or leaks, the car will overboost and you will encounter fuel cut (ECU engine safeguard).
Without it, the wastegate would open at its set pressure which is about 7psi, as opposed to the 14psi it would run with it working.
If its stuck open or leaks, the car will overboost and you will encounter fuel cut (ECU engine safeguard).
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