Zebedy

posted this elsewhere without much response yet so thought I would try here instead...

I have a MY99 UK Turbo Wagon which had PPP fitted after 500 miles.



Car goes great but I have a hankering to do something to it, although not for a few months I want to clarify a "To Do" list so I can work out what I need and how much it's going to cost.



PIAA Driving Lamp Covers (can only find the full kit, not had much joy in finding the covers only (or knowing what ones I need)

Green air filter (Heard MY99 is very fragile MAF so not convinced that its worth changing)

Ninja DownPipe (Hi Flow Sports Cat) (dont want hassle of changing for every MOT)

Ninja Decat centre section (with Silencer as dont want it droaning on long motorway runs)

Afterburner Up Pipe

ReMap?

New Wheels/Tyres





Is there anything to be had by changing the air filter (especially with it being a MY99) - or should I just get the paper one replaced at the next service? Not 100% sure it is worth trying but having said that I have heard standard filter cars having the MAF go aswell so....

Want to get the Sport Cat downpipe as don't want to muck around for every MOT, would rather fit and forget. Do I really need to change the centre section as well though? Not sure if this is either mandatory or just a good idea? (I assume PPP is only the back box that would have been changed already?) Will this just connect straight into PPP back box?

UpPipe- Only seen one of these and have only heard it mention on a handful of occasions- again is this really required as you dont see it mentioned much? (£135 for a short pipe?)

I understand PPP means a remap - does that mean I can get my car remapped again without having to buy a new programable ECU? Roughly how much would I be looking at and is this actually required after changing the downpipe etc?

Finally new tyres are needed soon - was just going to replace like for like but hear Toyo are supposed to be good (although still to decided what type) - now thinking about getting a package deal and some new alloys - It already has Prodrive17's on it but I am not convinced by them. Are there any guidlines about what will and will not fit a classic wagon? Dont think 18s are worthhwhile but aware that it is a possibility to consider.

Cheers folks.

Alan

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Alan,

Briefly, have a look at this thread to see what can be done:

https://www.scoobynet.com/api-and-brd....html?t=527345

I suppose this is what you might call a "stage 2" upgrade.

Stage one would be exhaust, filter, turbo hoses and remap- should see you to around 270-280bhp and similar torque. Suggest you have a word with David at API

Consider uprating the brakes and suspension too! 17 inch wheels perfectly adequate; save your money. Spend it on great tyres, e.g. Goodyear Eagle F1s.

Regards,

Ns04

Zebedy

It has EBC discs and Red Stuff Pads - not sure if it has braided hoses

It also has the PPP handling pack which I understand means bilsteins,eibachs and 17" speedlines on P1 Geometry settings (?)

Zebedy

Contacted Andy F and he suggested I try and sell/exchange the PPPd ECU for a standard ECU and get this mapped (tho I have no idea what this is worth or how indeed to get it changed over)

He didnt really answer the question over wether it was actually required after changing the downpipe/centre section etc

Any advice?

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Unless he can plug his latop and det cans into the car and examine how it runs on the PPP map with the extra mods, he probably won't be able to say mate; it's not his map, and I don't think a mapper can see any of another mappers work as part of the Ecutek licence, so he wouldn't be able to take an educated guess.

I'm sure he would tell you- as he told me- that a UK std ECU equipped car should run a decat exhaust without issue though. I would get a knocklink though, better safe than sorry when you start tuning!

Ns04

SlowBoy

iTrader: (1)

Some PPP cars will overboost with a decat dp. If the sports cat is as efficient then this might be a possibility. Easy fix, though, just drill out the restrictor by a fraction. If you're going for a sports cat dp then you may as well go for a straight thru centre, to max flow. Magnex is well priced. Most brands will mate with your BB. The cat in the dp alone should be enough for MOT tests.

Air filter - go for an Sti replacement panel. The original maf is very fragile, and often fails even without any mods, but Subaru changed it slightly for a more robust version which seems to last a lot longer. If it's ever been replaced then you should be OK. Look for a green dot on the maf to signify the later version. Mate runs a K&N cone, no probs with maf yet.

When I had my PPP ecu, with decat dp, it ran 252bhp, with 253lb/ft. When I sold it I got 325 quid back for it. Was chuffed. Now got a Link, but hear good things about Apexi.

The Prodrive suspension is excellent. Rolls a lot, though. Instead of 18"s, get it down to Powerstation and get drop links, arb and geometry set up. This should see a big improvement in handling for a fraction of the cost of new wheels and tyres.

Zebedy

Cheers for the detailed reply guys! Much appreciated.

Drilling holes and knocklink has got me thinking though that I perhaps dont want to go down this road if there is 'any' danger/risk involved - I love the car and think it is might be better of in the long term if it retains its unmolested classicness

Tho I do of course yearn for more power, just trying to see how to achieve this without ruining a top condition (30K) classic. Dont want to turn it into a 'boy racer mobile' which is one of the reasons I was thinking centre section with silencer.

Have not been able to find the STI panel, was gonna ask the dealership when it gets serviced about them if I have not already got a Green one.

The Geometry has just been done apparently, something about P1 settings and bilsteins & eibachs?? Dont know but its very low already and there is little roll so it has already had some good work in this department. I dont think I would want it much harder.

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Hi mate, if it's done properly, you won't ruin the car -quite the opposite. Mine has only 27k on it (I've owned it since it had 15k). The key is to have people who know what they're doing working on the car. My knocklink looks like it could be OEM, and there is really no external cues as to how potent the car now is.

The resonated centre section doesn't really reduce the volume per se, it's more of a difference in tone, and the removal of drone. A classic with a decent exhaust sounds stunning- a properly potent, sinister rumble, not like a fart-o-matic special on a 1.0 Nova!

I well remember taking mine through a small village and ending up behind a Bentley Continental (i.e. a much more desirable car), but guess who was getting the inquisitive glances and nods of appreciation. Yep, me! Why, well, a stop off at one of the pubs with a decent crowd sitting outside revealed that everyone said how lovely my car sounded and how they had to have a look to see what was producing the noise!

Ns04

dowser

Accept now that a little more power will not be enough PPP is a good compromise for a standard car, hence Andy suggesting you sell it rather than reprogramming it - far better to remap a stock ECU. Check with search on here, a PPP ecu with stock ecu in exchange should still see you with a couple of hundred quid up.

I'd them recommend one of Andy's TD04 hybrids - it should take you to a nice reliable 300 hp without having to worry too much about other things breaking (except the gearbox if you're aggressive ).

I would also welda high flow catalyst into your mid section and do away with the one in the downpipe - you'll pass an MOT test with this, and the d/p cat is a big restriction so close to turbo.

Note that the PPP mid-section does not have a cat in it, it is just a resonator. Oh, and I wouldn't recommend playing with restrictor hole sizes - what works in summer will not work in winter. If you don't want to go the remap route, fit a Dawes valve (manual boost controller) - just watch for det. My PPP with Dawes and decat used to regularly remove 5 degrees of timing through the mid-range (around 1.25 bar boost from memory).

Lastly - check your MAF has a green dot on it - if it doesn't replace it before you do anything with a new (green dot) item. It will likely be under-reading - maybe fine now, but cause problems when you start fiddling. Health check from a professional who knows these cars is advisable.

Richard