knock link sensor and levels of knock
12 July 2006, 09:51 PM
#1
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knock link sensor and levels of knock
hi guys,fitted a knock link (detalarm from rupert) and mounted the sensor as pic below,but it only lights up if i tap the head of the bolt i used to fix it down with??? is this normal,just took car for spin too and it didnt light up even to the first led with full boost,flat out???
12 July 2006, 11:37 PM
#4
Should be getting my DetAlarm fitted tomorrow in fact. Will let you know how it goes.
Out of interst where did you mount the little box of LEDs? And how did you route the wire through to the engine bay and hook up to power?
Out of interst where did you mount the little box of LEDs? And how did you route the wire through to the engine bay and hook up to power?
13 July 2006, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by James Neill
I did read somewhere that the DetAlarm is not adjustable but that it mimicks a Knocklink set to full sensitivity.
Scoobykevuk,
I would expect the first green led to flicker under full boost conditions, but some engines can be more detonation free than others. Lots of factors to look at such as boost level, intercooling, ignition advance....
Sensitivity could be reduced with poor wire connections or if the board was badly soldered (DIY kit only).
13 July 2006, 09:46 PM
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i see,well if its working im happy with no activity!!!!
james.... i mounted mine along with afr meter in the o/s/f centre air vent (vent removed) ran power from battery live and earth and wires through big groomet on bulkhead passenger side,comes out just below heater box,spot on.
let me know how it goes mate and if you get any levels of knock,cheers dude
james.... i mounted mine along with afr meter in the o/s/f centre air vent (vent removed) ran power from battery live and earth and wires through big groomet on bulkhead passenger side,comes out just below heater box,spot on.
let me know how it goes mate and if you get any levels of knock,cheers dude
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16 July 2006, 12:40 AM
#8
Put mine in today. Have wired it up right (I think) to the cigarette lighter power. But first LED is not coming on. Strangely, if I "tickle/stroke" the power wires (red or black) with their respective connections to power then the led flickers - but if I make a firm connection proper then it doesn't. Hopefully I haven't done anything wrong but I sent a PM to Rupert for some advice.
16 July 2006, 11:15 PM
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Hi James, I have replied.
I am pretty sure that the first LED is lighting up - it is just very dim so that you cannot confuse the 'on' light with detonation.
Try checking it in dim lighting conditions or cup it.
Alternatively just carry on with the install and connect up the sensor and check to see if the LEDS resond to tapping onthe sensor. I do a thorough test on all detalarms I sell so it should be fine.
The reason you are getting flickering when you tickle the wires is that you are causing power surges that are being 'read' as detonation signals.
I am pretty sure that the first LED is lighting up - it is just very dim so that you cannot confuse the 'on' light with detonation.
Try checking it in dim lighting conditions or cup it.
Alternatively just carry on with the install and connect up the sensor and check to see if the LEDS resond to tapping onthe sensor. I do a thorough test on all detalarms I sell so it should be fine.
The reason you are getting flickering when you tickle the wires is that you are causing power surges that are being 'read' as detonation signals.
Last edited by Roojai; 16 July 2006 at 11:18 PM.
22 July 2006, 02:39 PM
#12
Didn't reply earlier as I was getting some knock and didn't want to scare myself with some of the replies I would get 
I was getting no lights at all until I hit 5000rpm. Then the first led would flicker. By the time it got to 8000rpm then both red leds would light up. This would happen even if I was stationary and out of gear. I've taken this to mean the DetAlarm is picking up some noise and that it probably (hopefully?) isn't knock.
Every now and again when I floored it in 4th (and especially when dropping from 5th) I'd get a sudden spike of all leds lighting up. This I think was the real knock.
Anyway, I've since replaced the MAF and done an ECU reset and the the leds are much calmer now. I don't get the sudden spikes although I still get a gradual increase in leds lighting up past 5000rpm.
Basically, I've decided not to worry about it
Oh, the car is an STi6 with a remap by Andy Forrest, and I run it on Tesco 99 or Optimax.
I was getting no lights at all until I hit 5000rpm. Then the first led would flicker. By the time it got to 8000rpm then both red leds would light up. This would happen even if I was stationary and out of gear. I've taken this to mean the DetAlarm is picking up some noise and that it probably (hopefully?) isn't knock.
Every now and again when I floored it in 4th (and especially when dropping from 5th) I'd get a sudden spike of all leds lighting up. This I think was the real knock.
Anyway, I've since replaced the MAF and done an ECU reset and the the leds are much calmer now. I don't get the sudden spikes although I still get a gradual increase in leds lighting up past 5000rpm.
Basically, I've decided not to worry about it
Oh, the car is an STi6 with a remap by Andy Forrest, and I run it on Tesco 99 or Optimax.
22 July 2006, 06:04 PM
#16
Originally Posted by scoobykevuk
can you see it though??
i noticed today on full boost could just manage to get 1st led to flicker @ 0.9bar
i noticed today on full boost could just manage to get 1st led to flicker @ 0.9bar
06 September 2007, 10:17 PM
#19
The KL sensor doesn't replace the std sensor. Fit it as shown in the photo at the top - this only needs the intercooler taking off.
As as I can remember, the std one is in a position that doesn't need the inlet manifold taking off anyway. Sounds like your mechanic is after earning some extra money?
nick
As as I can remember, the std one is in a position that doesn't need the inlet manifold taking off anyway. Sounds like your mechanic is after earning some extra money?
nick
13 September 2007, 08:54 AM
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Right, after much faffing about and not much clue about what he's doing, i've asked the guy at kent performance to stop what he's doing and i'll get the knock link fitting somewhere else. I have to pay him for swapping my gearbox over and fitting a boost gauge, but the guy wants to charge me for stripping down and then replacing the inlet manifold.
The instructions that came with the sensor, never stated that it was a replacment unit, so surely, it's his **** up, not mine? Where do I stand on this?
The instructions that came with the sensor, never stated that it was a replacment unit, so surely, it's his **** up, not mine? Where do I stand on this?
Good luck
13 September 2007, 09:30 PM
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Chris, i think thats a bit unfair, maybe there has been cross wires with communication .
I was under the impression Craig has been keeping you informed of all goings on with your car, and what he is saying regarding the position of the knock sensor makes perfect sense, in as much as if it were fitted on the bell housing, as you've now requested it will show up a reading, but might not be an acurate reading.
To say he hasnt got a clue is very unreasonable, weve had many impreza's through and have never had any complaints, not to mention the full rebuild that we have already carried out on your car
I was under the impression Craig has been keeping you informed of all goings on with your car, and what he is saying regarding the position of the knock sensor makes perfect sense, in as much as if it were fitted on the bell housing, as you've now requested it will show up a reading, but might not be an acurate reading.
To say he hasnt got a clue is very unreasonable, weve had many impreza's through and have never had any complaints, not to mention the full rebuild that we have already carried out on your car
Last edited by avalaugh; 13 September 2007 at 09:36 PM.
13 September 2007, 09:53 PM
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Chris, Your response has made me join Scoobynet just to get our side across.
To suggest that I do not know what I am doing is deeply unfair, as I have worked on numerous imprezas with no problems, and I carried out the full engine rebuild on your car with no faults either.
The problem with the knock link you bought is that in the instructions it states to fit it in a position that receives a signal close to the original one, which means close to the o.e sensor. To remove the o.e sensor and refit the knock link one to the original wire is not incorrect, and it means the signal is more accurate. Subaru would not have put the original there if it could just have been bolted the the top of the block as in the pictures.
Also you have misquoted me, I did not say forum users do not know what they are talking about, I said that if you were a home mechanic it would be easier to fit the sensor in that position and not remove the manifold. I have the necessary knowledge and equipment to put it in the original position with no problems. You later said that you only wanted it on the block so that you could remove it easily if necessary.
To suggest that I do not know what I am doing is deeply unfair, as I have worked on numerous imprezas with no problems, and I carried out the full engine rebuild on your car with no faults either.
The problem with the knock link you bought is that in the instructions it states to fit it in a position that receives a signal close to the original one, which means close to the o.e sensor. To remove the o.e sensor and refit the knock link one to the original wire is not incorrect, and it means the signal is more accurate. Subaru would not have put the original there if it could just have been bolted the the top of the block as in the pictures.
Also you have misquoted me, I did not say forum users do not know what they are talking about, I said that if you were a home mechanic it would be easier to fit the sensor in that position and not remove the manifold. I have the necessary knowledge and equipment to put it in the original position with no problems. You later said that you only wanted it on the block so that you could remove it easily if necessary.
Last edited by KPCraig; 13 September 2007 at 09:57 PM.
14 September 2007, 09:44 AM
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I have retracted my comments as requested.
I do clearly remember however the comment you made about 'those internet forums', which considering the help I have obtained from here, did hit a nerve.
I do clearly remember however the comment you made about 'those internet forums', which considering the help I have obtained from here, did hit a nerve.
14 September 2007, 11:11 AM
#27
The problem with the knock link you bought is that in the instructions it states to fit it in a position that receives a signal close to the original one, which means close to the o.e sensor. To remove the o.e sensor and refit the knock link one to the original wire is not incorrect, and it means the signal is more accurate. Subaru would not have put the original there if it could just have been bolted the the top of the block as in the pictures.
The OEM knock sensor is located in a position without the need to remove the inlet manifold for its removal if it fails. This is documented in Subaru repair manuals.
To remove the oem sensor and replace with KL sensor is incorrect for classic cars as the connector won't fit. If the KL was to be used as the only knock sensor then the ECU won't pick up any signal and retard the timing - rather risky?
Running both the ECU and KL off one sensor won't work either.
The KL package is aimed at DIY enthusiasts and as such shouldn't require major work to fit it. What is the point of buying one if the fitting charge is more than or equal to the purchase cost?
Nick
14 September 2007, 11:41 AM
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I think his idea was to take the signal from the sensor to both the ecu and the digital display.
I only got wound up Craig, because of the way you basically dismissed any other opinion, including my own.
Like I said, no one, including many well known tuners on here, has ever spliced the knocklink into the original sensor.
The frequency emitted by the engine is picked up by the sensor. So I am a little confused as you have now stated that the bolt hole in question, will not be accurate.
Well, if it isn't accurate on the block, why is the original sensor mounted on the block, all be it in a different position?
I only got wound up Craig, because of the way you basically dismissed any other opinion, including my own.
Like I said, no one, including many well known tuners on here, has ever spliced the knocklink into the original sensor.
The frequency emitted by the engine is picked up by the sensor. So I am a little confused as you have now stated that the bolt hole in question, will not be accurate.
Well, if it isn't accurate on the block, why is the original sensor mounted on the block, all be it in a different position?
Last edited by Gear Head; 14 September 2007 at 11:48 AM.
14 September 2007, 11:50 AM
#29
Splicing into the wire from the OEM sensor for the knocklink display is not recommended....... my first Knocklink was fitted this way and discovered by Bob Rawle when he checked my car over prior to mapping.
Bob suggested I get an additional sensor and use that as the ECU might mis read signals from the OEM sensor with the wire being spliced.
HTH
Shaun
Bob suggested I get an additional sensor and use that as the ECU might mis read signals from the OEM sensor with the wire being spliced.
HTH
Shaun
14 September 2007, 11:54 AM
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This is also what concerns me craig.
'The OEM knock sensor is located in a position without the need to remove the inlet manifold for its removal if it fails. This is documented in Subaru repair manuals.'
'The OEM knock sensor is located in a position without the need to remove the inlet manifold for its removal if it fails. This is documented in Subaru repair manuals.'