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Engine rebuild V engine replacement?

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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 11:50 AM
  #1  
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Unhappy Engine rebuild V engine replacement?

Hi guys, my engine just blew up this morning going to work. Oil sprayed all over the turbo/up-pipe/downdpipe etc...and there was a bit of a fire which I put out asap. When it cooled down a bit I could see a piece of Ali casting about the size of a 50p coin lying on the engine between the turbo and the head. I suspect this is major! anyone got any experience on this simptom and the consiquences?
Which root do I take ? do I get a new engine and get that put in or do I strip this engine and try to rebuild it sourcing parts required?
All help gretfully received. H8NSK.
I have a 2001 WRX with 320bhp!
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 12:27 PM
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From: In a 405 BHP/360 ft/lb P1 with SN superstar Sonic dog at my side!
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Its major!!!!!!

Your crank, rod(s),piston (s), crankcases are all junk. quite possibly your cyl head as well if the piston has bent or snapped the valves.

You have thrown a rod most probably i.e either the rod or bolts have failed causing the rod or cap to exit from the c/case and let your piston flail around the cylinder not attached to the crank.

Unfortunately, you wont be doing a lot with the engine you have now.
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 05:05 PM
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From: S.W. Scotland
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Full replacement by the sounds of it. If it were me I would try and source an sti spec c bottom end and build on that as they are much stronger engines I am led to beleive.
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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Default engine replacement

Thanks for your advice chaps, I will be taking it to Paul at Zen Performance in Wellingborough to have all new uprated internals put in a new block retaining the 2litre spec/map etc...
Will cost around £3,500 ish all in. I hope this lasts and nothing else goes wrong because I'm skint now!!!
Hans.
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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Oil spraying everywhere suggests your block has been holed.

New engine. Or at the very least a short engine, as the heads and valves can come away completely unscaved.

Suggest New block, new crank, oil pump, rods and pistons. Inspect, flush and decoke heads and valves and reuse if ok.

Would not suggest buying 2nd hand engines, unless you strip it and rebuild it - too many unknowns. Every 2nd hand engine I have bought "running" that was already removed from the donor car has been found to past its sell by date and wouldn't last, so is a false economy unless used for parts or rebuilt.

Also suggest trying not to run as much BHP and having a more conservative ECU map if you want to stay reliable and take into account varying fuel qualities and other mechaical factors - you can't have both, no matter what everybody says (golden rule: wear is proportioinal to load).

Also get the engine sensors checked out - knock control and airflow sensor as these can hve a contributary factors And if your very a hard driver ensure your increasing oil changes, or using better oil.

Last edited by Shark Man; Jul 11, 2006 at 11:07 AM.
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