After several searches I soon realised there is very little information on fitting a MBC to pre face lift Jap spec cars.. eg. cars like mine. 1996 wrx import.

Firstly this is not a HOW to guide or recommended procedure for your car but more a diary of events and procedures that I did.

Before fitting a Manual boost controller you may wish to consider having it installed professionally with AFR checks and knocklink to determine safety levels within your car..

Ok..disclaimer over...do at OWN risk...



I began by searching for an appropriate manual boost controller, these RSPEC ones are readily available and similar in design an construction to DAWES, TURBOSMART.



Cars such as ours have a 3 port solenoid. Remember by fitting a MBC (manual boost controler) you will NOT be using this solenoid anymore. IF anything was to go wrong with your boost the engine ECU would not be able to over-ride the boost spike..limp mode to get you home...
Once you have established the 3 pipes...trace these pipes to the 3 main components. TURBO, ACTUATOR, INDUCTION.



As you'll notice I have already fitted a FMIC so accessing the turbo may be slightly different for you. Follow through the BOTTOM pipe to INDUCTION...you can LEAVE this one connected .
Follow through the BOTTOM right pipe from the solenoid to the actuator nipple, it's a bit tucked away...ONCE found remove this pipe from the ACTUATOR and SOLENOID. ( There should be some pipe grippers or jubilee clip retaining the pipe.)




Follow through the TOP hose from the solenoid to the TURBO nipple. ( Remove this pipe at TURBO and SOLENOID.)



Depending upon WHICH boost controler of course, connect pipes to TURBO and ACTUATOR and to MANUAL boost controller.
The Rspec controller has TURBO at bottom and ACTUATOR at the side. I used new pipe and grippers but you may be able to use exisiting pipe work, which would save time removing from TURBO and ACTUATOR. Either way make sure they are connected securely and you understand which way to ADJUST your controller.


You are NOT using the solenoid anymore so connect the two pipes together with 1 piece of hose. Remember they originally went to the turbo and actuator. I left the induction BLUE SAMCO in place.
You must also leave the electrical supply connected as this would register as a fault on your dash. There are other ways around this using resistors, but I didn't.

Make sure everything is connected and all tools removed etc... TURN boost down to lowest setting. On some controllers it's anti-clockwise for LOWER boost. Your controller may be click adjustable and have a + or - sign.

Go for a very slow drive..checking gauges and dials as you feel is appropriate. At minimum you must have a BOOST gauge !!!
Remember your right foot controls boost also so don't push too hard whilst checking gauge and of course the road ahead.

Adjust BOOST gradually. You will have to stop car and turn controller up or down as desired. Be patient and adjust 1/4 turns.
Set off again checking boost gauge etc.... I checked each gear but many suggest find FULL boost in top gear. Either way you need to know WHAT boost is being made at max pressure.



Once boost is set to the level you have checked and monitored is SAFE for your car, make sure locknut is tightened.
I painted a line on the gauge for quick easy reference to see if it has moved thus altering boost setting.

If like me you spent ages seaching for advice and threads on how to fit a MBC and came across sites displaying earlier 1999/2000 cars with 2 port solenoids then hopefully this is of help to you....

Becareful with boost and monitoring AFR..get it wrong and things go bang..

happy boosting

 

Well done mate. looks really good and some excellent advise,

it looks well set out...plus nice bit of graphics

Hopefully some one who is planning on doing a mod like this can have a look and ease there suffering as there isn't a clear 'how to do mods' section on this forum.

Anyway keep up the good work

 

thought you fit them whilst still retaining the boost solenoid, just have it connected in line to the actuator??? This way you are still having ecu control of the boost with just a little bit extra on top.

 

My brother's car has a manual controller which by-passed the actutor (was fitted by previous owner). On a diagnostic, codes came back as pressure sensor and actuator. We changed it so that it was in-line via pipe from turbo to actuator. Seems to be running fine but were now getting boost spikes in 3rd & 4th gear.........
So, which is the right way to fit this then?

 

cheers stiwagon97..always great to have some feedback and as you say it may be of help to someone.. not wound it up too much..hahaha

cheers also guys for ya posts.

I followed the fitting instructions supplied by Rspec which clearly stated that any electrical solenoid would need to be blanked off and bypassed as this would affect the car and the ability to control boost..

The 1999/2000 thread that so many threads direct members to may be worth reading http://stefanostadal.homedns.org/car_mods_engine.htm

However, so far the car is retaining boost as set up with NO spikes..

... BUT always open to discussion or further advice if I have made any errors

ps..not a disclaimer in site...so do so at OWN risk

 

I started by reading this post and then when received instructions and actual MBC device went ahead with fitment...

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...solenoid+boost

Recommendations here suggest the bypassing of the boost solenoid...

 

Ha ha forgot about that post. Never did try it in the end as I got an apexi avcr and power fc fitted instead!!

 

no probs bud..it was a bit a go and sounds like you have been busy since...
big difference with the power fc..??

 

hi mines not fitted like this if its not like this could it course cel 45 which i have got ????
thanx chris.

 

Hi Chris
when you state yours isn't fitted like this, what have you done differently..?

If you have correctly read your diagnostic codes the CEL 45 refers to
45Pressure duty solenoid (turbo)/atmospheric pressure sensor circuit (non-turbo)

As found @
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

 

I put one of these on my car at the weekend and i could not get it any lower than 1.2 bar, this was with it screwed right down, i was told that 1.2 was to much for my car, the car is a MY96 wrx.
is there anyway i can get it lower.

 

Anyone please help

 

I thought when you screwed it down closed it was upping the boost? Did you try opening it?

 

with it screwed half way out it was hiting 1.5 bar

 

sometimes on mbc's when you swap the pipes around i.e as theres the two pipes that connect, on my other turbo cars, when you put them the wrong way around, the boost goes too high or too low, this just might be the case

 

will give it a try but i am sure i had the pipes the correct way round