Have found the source of a power leak - its the I/C leaking slightly around the underside where it joins up.

Was going to take it to a welding shop but unsure of what it needs?

TIG
MIG?

Is the I/C made of ali?


Cheers,

Bob

 

somebody told me that wallis will weld them up for a bag of jelly beans


not sure if this is true or not, they need to be the special stella versions apparently.........

 

Its ally so TIG..

A Mig will just blow random holes in it.

 

also what can I expect to pay roughly?

 

I think there is a silicon seal right the way around Bob.
Sure someone on here took their leaky one apart by spreading the clamp strips, cleaned everything with Cellulose thinners, silicon together carefully (Stikaflex quality, not B&Q) ooozzzed it all together and re-clinched the strips.
Gently clamp together or place under an even weight (bowl of water?) and leave for a long time or what is said on the tube.

It worked for him.
Must admit I thought it was YOU who did it!

Hope that helps.

Graham

 

Wasn't me.....far too much work

I think I would rather have it all welded up if that makes it boost-tight.

Will have it done locally.

What type of place will be able to pressure test it?

Cheers for all the quick replies - certainly wasnt expecting the answers so quickly

 

If the welders are charging more than £20-30 I may have a go at it myself...

where can the Silicon be had from and any particular one I should look for?

 

I've taken the end tank off.

Their is a one piece rubber seal on the inside which is meant to keep it air-tight.

I have got some 'Comma Instant Gasket' lying around so may use that. Its Silicon RTV sealant which is resistant upto 260degC. Also water, anit-freeze and oil resistant.

Hopefully it should be okay to use.....???

 

Yes: RTV = Room temperature vulcanising ie sets at room temperature.
Easy to test:

1
Take it to a radiator repair shop for pressure testing under water. Leak = air bubbles.
2
Connect a tyre @ 2 bar (only 28 psi) and connect the valve to the TMIC inlet. Hard to get a good seal with all the bits. Test under water or with lots of water with Fairy Liquid solution. Leak = big bubbles.

Graham

 

tig is the best bet but has to be spotless, any dirt,oil or anything will cause a mess. it can be mig`ed with the correct wire, 1.6 should do but still has to be clean.

 

Off into the garage to fit the sealant and put it back together.

Will update.

 

just like this - they dont like boost do they?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/p1mark/ic3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/p1mark/ic2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/p1mark/ic1.jpg

Mine split the same, and i was not happy about welding it because of the seal.

All i did was squash it back together, knock the tabs back, then fibreglassed all the joints around the whole intercooler. Worked a treat fror 3000 miles before i put a front mount on

bit of a rub down and spray, and it looks better as well - all smooth

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ark/icmod1.jpg

 

All done!

Hopefully it'll be okay when I have it tested tomorrow/install it.

Must have hammered all the tabs at least 5 times to make sure it was tight.

Got to use my favourite tool lots



Mark: That looks very smart I've never used fibreglass - how hard was it to do?

Time for bed.

 

Using fibreglass?

dead easy really, i just used one of the isopon kits from a motor factors. TBH its probably not far off as strong as welding done right.

Just mix a tad of hardener with the gelcoat, lay the matt on and soak it with a stipple brush (all in the kit). I have just finished it off with body filler before a smooth down and paint.

 

What boost are the ICs coming apart at?

Nick

 

It wont be any where near as strong as welding it and every time it heats up and cools down it will be slowly comming away, the fibreglass expands at a different rate to the ally so its just a matter of time before the adhesive gives way.

 

Bob:

My V8 TMIC ran 1.4/1.5 bar no probs. The tabs corrode due to water/spray and weakens the clamp effect rapidly.
Secondly: watch-out for P1 'cause he's a master craftsman and it all looks good and easy when he's finished...
I can see a BIG FMIC coming on

Graham

 

you could try the way they do it on renault 5 turbo s
2 big jubilee clips to hold it together it s a bit rough but does the job

 

1.5bar. Didnt have it pressure tested as I needed the car to get around. Hard to say if it was the problem in the first place. I suspect poss leaking header gaskets - we'll see how it goes on the strip on the weekend.

Mark: Cheers. Will bear it in mind when I next have the i/c off.


Bob