MikeCardiff

iTrader: (2)

Noticed a small weep of oil from the engine the other day so got it down the local garage to get it checked out - they reckon its from the rear timing belt housing.

Said it would be an engine out job to get this done, is this correct ? thinking I'll probably just get the main dealer to do it but wanted to know approx the price I'd be looking at - I'd imagine around the same cost as the full big service time and parts wise ?

stockcar

?? the timing belt is at the front of the engine, no need to take it out to sort - if it is at the t/belt end the most common would be the oil pump/crank seal................
if its in the gearbox bell housing area then possible rear crank oil seal which does need the engine & g/box split

alyn

MikeCardiff

iTrader: (2)

I assumed they meant the cambelt ??? - didnt get a chance to talk directly to the mechanic, but what they wrote on the invoice was 'oil leak from rear timing belt housing - please note timing belts will be contaminated with oil and should be replaced asap'

RON

Mike, what they meant was that there's an oil leak, from the rear OF THE timing cover area.... ie, oil pump seal.... not difficult, and as stated, would really need new cambelt at the same time.... however, don't be fooled into paying any labour for the belt change... they have to remove the belt to do the oil seal.... so therefore fitting a new one will take no longer than re-fitting an old one...

MikeCardiff

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Ron, spoke to my local main dealer and they said basically the same - as they're having the cambelt off anyway to do the seal ( assuming it is that and not something else ) then it would only be parts cost for the new belt as they wont add extra labour on. Said they'll check the tensioner as well just to be safe in case it needs changing.

As the cars on 72K its not a major hassle as its just like bringing the major service forward a bit.

[Davey]

None of the seals on the front side of the engine should be an engine out job, there is literally TONNES of room..

Belt, tensioner, and idlers takes a couple of hours.. its a relatively easy job, especially for a decent garage who will have cam locking tools.

Seals will obviously increase the time, probably looking at about 4 hours of work.

pabs

I had this problem and have replaced the seal twice only for it to leak again...should I be chaning the oil pump at the same time?

p1prodrive

iTrader: (3)

i assume this is cvc ?...they are pants in my eyes !

RON

No need to change the pump, but you do need to ensure that the seal goes in squarely...... i removed the pump on mine, fitted the new seal, then refitted the pump...... just so i knew it was right!

pabs

Cheers for reply - where abouts is the oil pump located and how do you get it out?

RON

The oil pump is directly behind the crank pully, it's quite easy to remove once you've got the cambelt and a few other bits off...... 6 or 7 10mm bolts if i recall......