911

I have an Sti v3.
Later in the year I want to fit a reversed inlet to go with the other mods on the car (380+ bhp currently)

I will keep my stock manifold incase i strip and sell the car; so which manifold is best from the impreza range for cutting and welding to 'reverse'?

Graham

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

phase 1 seems to be more equal flow.. no raise in one side to go over the inlet pipe.. but obviously that exact thing might cause you problems.

Run a front entry phase 1 on my car.. but then it is a phase 1 car.. lol

Simon

Peanuts

iTrader: (15)

I thought that recent "comprehensive" studies on 22b had shown that reversing the inlet manifold (and hence shortening the pipework) accounted for about 0.2s lagtime, assuming the car was coming to a complete stop at each gearchange.

ie, lot of effort for not a lot of gain

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

All adds up though.. 0.2seconds is a long time thats 0.6seconds off your quarter time Andy!

Simon

911

I would sell my body for 0.6 off a hill climb run, could beat that EVO then
I would like to do it for a bit of fun too.
I will keep the 'under the inlet' induction pipe i have on my Sti v3 as it cost a lot and i have a FE TD05 20g, not a twisted GT30!

I might as well get a v3 Sti and reverse it and cut/weld the cast throttle body 'feature' to the right angle as Pavlo does. Insulators will help on clearing the pipe too.

Thanks for the advice.

Graham

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Graham if you ever need a phase 1 manifold to reverse i have a spare sat in the garage.....

Tony.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

if you rotate your phase 1.5 sti 3 manifold physically then the hump for the inlet pipe will be on the wrong side and you will have to use spacers to allow the intake pipe though.. if you are going to use spacers and have to weld a wedge on etc.. you may as well use a phase 1 manifold, use spacers and weld a plate on the front and block off the original inlet / throttle body mount etc..

Simon

911

Excellent!
I knew the spacers (Carl's) would be needed to clear the Samco inlet.
I have just ordered a Harvey Hybrid FMIC, but I'm sure I've seen one with a reversed inlet and modded FMIC hoses that come just behind the top of the rad to the inlet. The feed to the manifold is a tight 90 deg bend which is not desirable though.

I have removed the a/c rad from in front of the Rad (iyswim), I guess I will still need to hack the bumper like mad though?
There is a great install thread on 22b I think, so must study that.

Tony, can't find the dosh now for the Phase one manifold, but if you do sell can you remember me first? Aren't there fuel manifold issues with a phase one compared to the Sti v3? (I have 550's in mine at present)

Finally, if I do fit a reverse manifold will i need a re-map?

Sorry for all the questions, probably through being so bored over Xmas on the car.

Graham.

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Graham, phase 1 and 1.5 (Sti 3/4) injectors are the same, although the phase 1.5 fuel rails are unique. Phase 2 rails can be modified to fit a phase 1 manifold.

You shouldn't need a remap (but it would help to extract every last little bit) if you reverse the manfiold, but you will if you switch from phase 1.5 to 1. You will need a re-map for the FMIC however.

A Phase 1 manifold is better for top end power but not so good for mid-range torque, the phase 1.5 is a better design for mid range power at the expense of top end power.

For hill climbing and a 2 litre engine with a big turbo I suspect mid range torque is of greater importance to you

If you need some pics of how much hacking is required of the bumper have a look through my HKS FMIC install pics here

If your interested I'd be happy to swap front bumpers and the modified bumper bar with you, I no longer need the cut up bumper for my Lateral FMIC and would prefer the stock looking one...

911

Bet your's isn't white though?
Thanks for the info. The need is for a strong mid range on the 20g so it would be best to keep the V3 and all the fuel stuff too.
Thanks, Graham.

stevebt

iTrader: (8)

why not fit an aftermarket inlet manifold ??? the magnus one is available from the US for about £700 ish im considering buying one myself

911

Cricky Steve!, that's 1/2 a 6 speeder or a set of slicks!

Graham

RON

Or a new bathroom suite eh Graham...

ZEN Performance

Hmm, a lot of wild information here, not all of it correct by a long shot.

Early phase 1 manifold from v1-2 car will fit on your car, will make the best peak power of the manifolds that will fit on your car, but a little less torque. It will not easily accomodate the inlet pipe, will need spacers to raise it. To reverse it, it will need a new plate for the throttle welding on the front. It carries the ISCV that is compatible with your car, and your throttle body will fit meaning no connector changes for the TPS. Fuel rails will not be transferable, although you can put your injectors into the rails that come with these manifold as standard.

Phase 1.5 (or late phase 1 as some people say) is easily reversable, just fit it backwards and get a 45º 70mm samco on the TB to get the pipe down away from the bonnet. Without spacers, all you need is to twist the top of the ISCV to get bonnet clearance. It requires no welding, just some mods to the engine loom due to the different position of the ISCV and TPS relative to the loom. It has humps on BOTH SIDES and can be made to accomodate your inlet pipe with ease (just remove some lumps underneath). It will give better low down torque, and IMHO is probably the more suitable manifold over the V1/2 unit. It's free, and to be found on your car right now.

Phase 2 manifold will not fit on your car, not simply reversed due to the ISCV which isn't compaitble with your version of PFC. It is not symettrical, doesn't equal branches and is only humped only on one side which precludes you from reversing it as is.

New age manifold with TGVs will not fit on your engine, like the phase 2 the stud pattern is different at the ports are 15mm further apart. It is however easily reversed as the TB sits nice and low, it is also humped on both sides, although there is nowhere immediate to locate the coil. The ISCV isn't compatible, but may I think be adapted with some electronic work. It uses Top feed injectors with different fuel rails, but new injectors are relatively easy to come by for you power level, not cheap though.

New Age manifold without TGV (JDM STI) is same shape overall as TGV version, but with a straight transition onto the head, much like the previous inlet manifold.

You can also get some others, but I don't think you will be interested.

Hope this helps firm up your decision.

Paul

911

I think you may have done this before Paul..

That sets the engineering straight, and thanks for all that, looks like I have the lucky combination just for once, and can do the whole thing with the FMIC soon on it's way and the AST's very soon, and the AndyF re-map fairly soon.

The mods to the loom I guess are simple extensions to wires/re routing to get to the right points, and the rest sounds reversible to stock afterwards.

At last a 'project ' to do.

Ron: as to the Bathroom; it's on its way AND the Wife says I can get a 'little man' in to do it (hence time for the above), but that's cost me the gearbox.

Nothing like getting your priorities straight.

As ever, thank you to all and Paul @ Zen.

Graham.

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

And if you need a spare phase 1.5 inlet to work on without taking the car apart i have one of those too .... god i need to get rid of all the sh*te out of my garage

Tony.

Mark A

iTrader: (1)

I have a spare phase 1 inlet in red if you want to fiddle!!

I could also open a Subaru spares dept

Mark A

911

Thanks to both, but I hope to use my existing manifold as Paul suggests.
Graham.