What does adjusting an actuator rod really do?
04 October 2005, 10:19 PM
#1
What does adjusting an actuator rod really do?
I have a TD05 on my car and I used to think that shortening or lengthening the actuator rod adjusted the boost levels but I've been told that it doesn't 
What does it really do?
Thanks
What does it really do?
Thanks
05 October 2005, 03:08 AM
#2
It adjusts the point at which the penny valve opens. A slack actuator may start to open at say .7 bar whereas a tight one could be 1.1 bar.
It will not increase maximum boost unless of course the penny valve is kept fully shut all the time. That same effect can be achieved by disconnecting the feed to the actuator. Remeber to blank the feed pipe.
It will not increase maximum boost unless of course the penny valve is kept fully shut all the time. That same effect can be achieved by disconnecting the feed to the actuator. Remeber to blank the feed pipe.
How can you find out if it is correct?
05 October 2005, 12:13 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
But also, if by shortening the actuator arm you are preloading the actuator spring you will reduce the maximum angle to which the wastegate opens which may lead to higher boost at higher revs and possibly even boost creep.
Andrew...
Andrew...
05 October 2005, 12:21 PM
#5
Scooby Regular
Originally Posted by harvey
It adjusts the point at which the penny valve opens. A slack actuator may start to open at say .7 bar whereas a tight one could be 1.1 bar.
It will not increase maximum boost unless of course the penny valve is kept fully shut all the time. That same effect can be achieved by disconnecting the feed to the actuator. Remeber to blank the feed pipe.
It will not increase maximum boost unless of course the penny valve is kept fully shut all the time. That same effect can be achieved by disconnecting the feed to the actuator. Remeber to blank the feed pipe.
Apparently, death would come swiftly to the engine so I only did it a couple of times.
05 October 2005, 12:30 PM
#6
To set up the preload properly you need to know what pressure you are aiming for.
You need a hand pump with a guage and you can then adjust the BOV actuator to the correct "cracking" pressure.
A rough and ready way is to adjust the the actuator so that the hole on the turn buckle is a quarter overlap on the stud/pin it fits over on the actuator arm. You then pull the actuator arm out to fit over the pin and secure with circlip.
If somebody that knows how to post pictures e-mails me I will send photos of the setting guage and you can post them.
You need a hand pump with a guage and you can then adjust the BOV actuator to the correct "cracking" pressure.
A rough and ready way is to adjust the the actuator so that the hole on the turn buckle is a quarter overlap on the stud/pin it fits over on the actuator arm. You then pull the actuator arm out to fit over the pin and secure with circlip.
If somebody that knows how to post pictures e-mails me I will send photos of the setting guage and you can post them.
05 October 2005, 12:37 PM
#7
Originally Posted by harvey
To set up the preload properly you need to know what pressure you are aiming for.
You need a hand pump with a guage and you can then adjust the BOV actuator to the correct "cracking" pressure.
A rough and ready way is to adjust the the actuator so that the hole on the turn buckle is a quarter overlap on the stud/pin it fits over on the actuator arm. You then pull the actuator arm out to fit over the pin and secure with circlip.
If somebody that knows how to post pictures e-mails me I will send photos of the setting guage and you can post them.
You need a hand pump with a guage and you can then adjust the BOV actuator to the correct "cracking" pressure.
A rough and ready way is to adjust the the actuator so that the hole on the turn buckle is a quarter overlap on the stud/pin it fits over on the actuator arm. You then pull the actuator arm out to fit over the pin and secure with circlip.
If somebody that knows how to post pictures e-mails me I will send photos of the setting guage and you can post them.
I'll drop you an email now.
Trending Topics
06 October 2005, 08:16 AM
#14
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ruislip
Posts: 925
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Paul,
if you link the small pipe on the turbo outlet to the actuator it will run at "cracking" pressure.....Oh, and block the other pipe going to the boost control solenoid
if you link the small pipe on the turbo outlet to the actuator it will run at "cracking" pressure.....Oh, and block the other pipe going to the boost control solenoid
07 October 2005, 02:39 AM
#17
Sam : You have the photos and previos mail to..............................................
3500rpm, what gear.
The way to measure spool is 4th gear or as close to 1.0 as you can get with these 6 speed boxes or even low RA boxes. 1500/1700 rpm, turbo hot, foot flat on the floor, where do you get 1 bar.
3500rpm, what gear.
The way to measure spool is 4th gear or as close to 1.0 as you can get with these 6 speed boxes or even low RA boxes. 1500/1700 rpm, turbo hot, foot flat on the floor, where do you get 1 bar.
07 October 2005, 09:20 AM
#18
Pics added
Pisc that were sent to me by Harvey:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0371.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0366.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0369.jpg
The kit cost over £40 from Dartford Karting. If it is just for your own car then find someone local that can set it up fot you. Only a 15 min job max.
Regards,
Harvey.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0371.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0366.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0369.jpg
The kit cost over £40 from Dartford Karting. If it is just for your own car then find someone local that can set it up fot you. Only a 15 min job max.
Regards,
Harvey.
07 October 2005, 01:44 PM
#21
Unmapped 12.4s @ 105
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
Posts: 11,776
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Originally Posted by Xtrac
Is that a Mitsubishi logo on the turbo housing? in the last pic?
-Roy
-Roy
07 October 2005, 02:31 PM
#22
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In a V6 Mercedes
Posts: 2,327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Xtrac
Is that a Mitsubishi logo on the turbo housing? in the last pic?
-Roy
-Roy
Rob
07 October 2005, 05:56 PM
#23
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Turkiye, Florida
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So if I aim for 1.2 target boost what pressure should I set the TD04L actuator arm? I'm experiencing some problems increasing the boost above 1 bar. It never reaches or is not effective.
07 October 2005, 11:59 PM
#26
Originally Posted by harvey
I am pissed off trying to help people and sending them photos that they say they will post and then they do not.
Send me an e-mail Sam and I will send them to you.
Send me an e-mail Sam and I will send them to you.
08 October 2005, 12:29 AM
#27
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Taunton
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I could be wrong but I think you are all missing something here. The actuator does indeed open the penny valve at a certain pressure, and I think it is normally about 0.7bar on TD05s.
The thing that really controls the boost though is the solenoid which controls how much of the pressure in the manifold is released into the actuator. The solenoid opens and closes rapidly, letting some air through into the actuator. If it opens for long periods and closes for short periods then most air will get through meaning that the actuator will open early and low boost is reached. If the solenoid opens for short periods and is closed for long periods then not much air gets through and the boost in the mainifold can get much higher before the actuator opens the penny valve. This frequency of opening and closing is what duty-cycles are.
A dawes valve basically does the same thing, it does not let air through until your desired target (of perhaps 1 bar) is reached and when it is the enough air can get through to equal 0.7bar in the actuator opening the penny valve.
The thing that really controls the boost though is the solenoid which controls how much of the pressure in the manifold is released into the actuator. The solenoid opens and closes rapidly, letting some air through into the actuator. If it opens for long periods and closes for short periods then most air will get through meaning that the actuator will open early and low boost is reached. If the solenoid opens for short periods and is closed for long periods then not much air gets through and the boost in the mainifold can get much higher before the actuator opens the penny valve. This frequency of opening and closing is what duty-cycles are.
A dawes valve basically does the same thing, it does not let air through until your desired target (of perhaps 1 bar) is reached and when it is the enough air can get through to equal 0.7bar in the actuator opening the penny valve.
08 October 2005, 05:19 AM
#28
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Llandudno
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Roojai
I could be wrong but I think you are all missing something here. The actuator does indeed open the penny valve at a certain pressure, and I think it is normally about 0.7bar on TD05s.
The thing that really controls the boost though is the solenoid which controls how much of the pressure in the manifold is released into the actuator. The solenoid opens and closes rapidly, letting some air through into the actuator. If it opens for long periods and closes for short periods then most air will get through meaning that the actuator will open early and low boost is reached. If the solenoid opens for short periods and is closed for long periods then not much air gets through and the boost in the mainifold can get much higher before the actuator opens the penny valve. This frequency of opening and closing is what duty-cycles are.
A dawes valve basically does the same thing, it does not let air through until your desired target (of perhaps 1 bar) is reached and when it is the enough air can get through to equal 0.7bar in the actuator opening the penny valve.
The thing that really controls the boost though is the solenoid which controls how much of the pressure in the manifold is released into the actuator. The solenoid opens and closes rapidly, letting some air through into the actuator. If it opens for long periods and closes for short periods then most air will get through meaning that the actuator will open early and low boost is reached. If the solenoid opens for short periods and is closed for long periods then not much air gets through and the boost in the mainifold can get much higher before the actuator opens the penny valve. This frequency of opening and closing is what duty-cycles are.
A dawes valve basically does the same thing, it does not let air through until your desired target (of perhaps 1 bar) is reached and when it is the enough air can get through to equal 0.7bar in the actuator opening the penny valve.
11 October 2005, 05:22 PM
#30
SoNiCa: Jacking the actuator shut on the adjuster screw will not help you if you have a standard ECU because the boost is still being controlled to a relatively low setting. It could result in major problems.
Also remember you will have a fuel cut at some point around 1.05 bar upwards depending on what model you have.
You could increase the boost cheaply with a GBE bleed valve or similar. Alternatively you could use an electronic boost controller.
The efficiency of the TD04L will deteriorate rapidly as the boost increases. I am not sure where this would be but a sensible limit might be somewhere between 1.1 and 1.25 bar.
Also remember that if you increase the boost then you are weakening your AFR so you need to see how much it is weakened, if it is still safe and if not you need to get more fuel in or you will nip a piston in the bore etc. Dodgy ground if you do not know what you are doing and can check for AFR and DET.
Also remember you will have a fuel cut at some point around 1.05 bar upwards depending on what model you have.
You could increase the boost cheaply with a GBE bleed valve or similar. Alternatively you could use an electronic boost controller.
The efficiency of the TD04L will deteriorate rapidly as the boost increases. I am not sure where this would be but a sensible limit might be somewhere between 1.1 and 1.25 bar.
Also remember that if you increase the boost then you are weakening your AFR so you need to see how much it is weakened, if it is still safe and if not you need to get more fuel in or you will nip a piston in the bore etc. Dodgy ground if you do not know what you are doing and can check for AFR and DET.