STI RA

Hiya,

I have a scooby chip fitted to my sti ra (1996) and I am a bit worried about using it. Its the single chip one with the 32 pins. I fitted it to the car and I hit the fuel cut which I am assuming is overboost. I am a bit wary now of putting in a chip that could have been programmed wrong for my car.

I am told that it has been mapped for a 7k ecu and TD05 turbo which is what I have. What is the worse case senario of fitting this to my car as the last thing I want is the engine to blow, is it possible this could happen if the map on the chip wasn't altered properly for my car or had been messed with. Apologies as these may be stupid questions but I have limited knowledge of these chips.

It is also supposed to be mapped for a full decat but I currently just have a decat centre and back box. The main reason I purchased it was to alter the fuel so I could run it on 97/98 ron. The activity on the knocklink was the same as before fitting the chip, if not a little more activity even with the chip but this could just be paranoia especially when it overboosted.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated

STI RA

BTTT

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

If it's not showing red on the KL, then just lenghten the actuator by a few turns, or decrease the size of the restrictor in the return hose from the boost control solenoid.

This should help prevent the boost spikes.

P.S AFAIK it's not one of my chip's.

STI RA

Cheers Scott,

No its not one of yours but I am wishing it was, maybe my heading is a bit misleading but was not sure what to call it, its one of them chips from Australia I think.

Without sounding stupid Lol but how do I lenghten the actuator. So you think that the chip would be quite safe if its not showing the red?
Do you think maybe that Z5 chip I was on about in the other thrread would be a better job. It came from an sti ra, after that Im not too sure about it.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

The normal place to see knock is between 4,800 and 5,500 on a map that's nearly there. Genrally you can get a spike to red in this area which is gone again by 5,500rpm. This can be sorted by taking a couple of degree's either out of the base map or the correction map. 'IF' you can work out were it is on the load scale (a bit of guesswork is required on the 92-96 ECU unless you have v.sophisticated live sofware, which I think Pat has written and uses).

If you get the flash to red in this zone, sometimes you can hear quite a pronounced single 'TINK' of detonation as the Red light comes on.

You may also get a little sparkle as it gets near the red line.

Any more then that and the map seriously needs looking at, although the above also isn't desirable.

If you are only seeinng 2 greens and occasional single yellow, I wouldn't worry about it too much. 2 Greens are genrally just noise (I get 2 greens on my PE mapped VF28 equiped UK MY00)

With regard to the actuator :

Take the heatshield of the turbo.
Underneath you will see the actuator rod connected to the wastgate.
Undo the locknut on the actuator rod, then remove the circlip that holds it to the wastgate.
Remove the rod from the wastegate and adjust.
Lengthen it to reduce boost.
Shorten it to increase boost.

You should only need to adjust it by approx 2 full rotations.