classicwagon2

Being new to Scoobies I am a little apprehensive about this job. I have done a few timing belts before but never one with 4 cams and four idlers! Crankshaft oil seal is leaking and timing belt is due very soon anyway. Ordered the belt and seal from Graham Goode and it is the one with Marks on it. Got a really detailed manual from on here. Any pointers, I reckon I will take the radiator out. I have air con as well which will need to be moved aside. Is it really that difficult, just need re-assurance I guess.

Thanks

grahamfrary

No need to remove radiator. Worst bits are undoing the crankshaft nut and getting the belt alignment right. You need to create a bit of slack along the bottom run before clamping the wheels otherwise you won't be able to pull the new belt tight enough to get on the right tooth.

Graham

classicwagon2

When you say clamping the wheels, do you need to clamp the cams in place? doesnt mention this in manual. Looks like removing the idler on the bottom and releasing the tensioner should let the belt line up with cams and crank? Also I presume if I remove the belt with Cams on alignment marks then there is no reason why they should move when I remove the belt ie they are normally in that position.

FB Tuning

iTrader: (30)

The 2 cams on the passenger side of the car have a tendency to 'jump' as they are on cam when aligned with their respective timing marks.

I have always been able to use a spanner to correctly align the sprocket just as you are putting the timing belt round it. I'm sure there is a special tool which locks the 2 cams together, but it isn't necessary IMHO

classicwagon2

Ah yes this sounds like the humble Rover K-series, It stresses how careful I need to be in lining up cams on that side due to valve interference. Do they jump by enough to interfere or is it only if you then have to turn them? This is the part that is concerning me

Kevin Groat

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=288376

I did mine last year - see attached for tips. I did remove the Rad for some more space - slackening the crank pulley bolt was the biggest pain, glad I did remove the rad to do this.

grahamfrary

Mine jumped quite a long way but didn't cause any harm. I used a piece of neoprene tube wedged between the cam wheels to hold them. I found it easiest to make a tool to hold the crank pulley using a long bar and drilled two holes to line up with the holes in the pulley using a couple of long bolts as dowels. Wedge it on the ground or behind the alternator belt shield.

classicwagon2

Got the old belt off last night, dead easy, cam wheels jumped but not much. Looks fairly easy. Like the piece of tubing idea. Will crankshaft need locked in place? Crank oil seal is knackered so glad I did it. idlers all look OK. Also need to get something strong enough to hold tensioner pushrod in!