Head gasket blown, high power upgraded engine rebuild choice help needed.
11 November 2004, 10:19 PM
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Head gasket blown, high power upgraded engine rebuild choice help needed.
We've got a 1993 Type RA.
We do a lot of track days and have noticed that the car is blowing a lot of coolent out of the expansion tank. In fact last weekend at Cadwell Park you could sit and watch the coolent bubble as the car ticked over
I've also got worn syncros in the box so thats going to need rebuilding or replacing.
Working on the time old basis of "if youre going to fix it, upgrade it" Ive started thinking that if the engines and box have to come out to have the repairs done then I might as well go the whole hog and sort the engine properly.
Ill be looking for around 450bhp. But a reliable 450bhp, if possible.
The cars got the basics, exhaust, Walbro etc and will be getting a Hybrid intercooler.
Im into tuning Nissan 200s so on that basis Ive a (very) rough short list drawn up in my mind:
Metal headgaskets
Forged pistons
Rods (needed??)
Clutch (Cusco?Exedy?OS Giken single or maybe twin plate kit)
Oil cooler
Turbo kit (Greddy TD06 20G 8cm2)
Omex management
740cc injectors
Ive some questions:
1) I cant seem to find anyone doing head gaskets, pistons or rods
I know Omega and Wiseco do pistons. Where can they be sourced and are there any alternatives. I can get Wisecos for good money, are they any good in Subarus?
2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp?
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp?
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp?
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers?
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box?
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Anything else Ive missed?
We do a lot of track days and have noticed that the car is blowing a lot of coolent out of the expansion tank. In fact last weekend at Cadwell Park you could sit and watch the coolent bubble as the car ticked over
I've also got worn syncros in the box so thats going to need rebuilding or replacing.
Working on the time old basis of "if youre going to fix it, upgrade it" Ive started thinking that if the engines and box have to come out to have the repairs done then I might as well go the whole hog and sort the engine properly.
Ill be looking for around 450bhp. But a reliable 450bhp, if possible.
The cars got the basics, exhaust, Walbro etc and will be getting a Hybrid intercooler.
Im into tuning Nissan 200s so on that basis Ive a (very) rough short list drawn up in my mind:
Metal headgaskets
Forged pistons
Rods (needed??)
Clutch (Cusco?Exedy?OS Giken single or maybe twin plate kit)
Oil cooler
Turbo kit (Greddy TD06 20G 8cm2)
Omex management
740cc injectors
Ive some questions:
1) I cant seem to find anyone doing head gaskets, pistons or rods
I know Omega and Wiseco do pistons. Where can they be sourced and are there any alternatives. I can get Wisecos for good money, are they any good in Subarus?2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp?
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp?
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp?
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers?
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box?
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Anything else Ive missed?
11 November 2004, 10:56 PM
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ring Mark @ Lateral Performance.. www.lateralperformance.co.uk he can supply parts or organise the whole build and always happy help with spec etc..
11 November 2004, 11:01 PM
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1) I cant seem to find anyone doing head gaskets, pistons or rods I know Omega and Wiseco do pistons. Where can they be sourced and are there any alternatives. I can get Wisecos for good money, are they any good in Subarus?
You can get Omegas from Roger Clark. Wisecos rattled like nothing else in three of my stroker engines, but apparently not in others.
2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp?
Roger Clark do Arrow rods. They would make your 450 BHP more reliable I expect.
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp?
Depends more on torque, I run 400 lbft through a Roger Clark 240mm (IIRC) organic - but for road not track use, it has held about 450 lbft as well, but the engine let go before it got a really good testing.
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp?
Someone else will chime in here.
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers?
STi valvetrain will rev happily to this level on later model years I'm familiar with, not sure about early models.
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box?
Subaru, second hand. PPG do an uprated kit which seems to be doing well. Avoid PAR, loads of them have failed.
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
You'll probably break things, but 450 BHP in road use seems reliable on my MY00 UK rear diff and the six speed centre and front diff over thousands of miles, but lots of drag/track will probably be different.
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Roger Clark do an uprated one with a reworked plunger - which has been known to stick on standard pumps.
I sound like a Roger Clark fan club, but I trust them as a supplier. They are expensive, but their stuff seems to not break unlike the stuff from elsewhere (another supplier mentioned in this thread - everything went wrong I am afraid, I was unlucky, but it was a turbo failure, three engines, gearbox and over-rated clutch which to be fair didn't slip but didn't have evidence of the claimed clamping pressure and a simple test suggested it was nowhere near). All I have from Roger Clark is their clutch and oil pump though, but others have had impressive 2.0 results from their kit which has held together well. I am running a standard Subaru EJ257 short motor at c.440-450 BHP and 400 lbft. In road use this is cheap, quiet (a relief after three failed stroker builds), torquey, but the headgaskets do go if you push harder than this, and I wouldn't run it at this on track, it seems good as a cheap road engine that is disposable. Some people are having issues with oil or water temperatures on larger capacity blocks.
For big output with reliability, you won't go wrong with a Roger Clark built 2.0, but it will not be cheap.
You can get Omegas from Roger Clark. Wisecos rattled like nothing else in three of my stroker engines, but apparently not in others.
2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp?
Roger Clark do Arrow rods. They would make your 450 BHP more reliable I expect.
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp?
Depends more on torque, I run 400 lbft through a Roger Clark 240mm (IIRC) organic - but for road not track use, it has held about 450 lbft as well, but the engine let go before it got a really good testing.
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp?
Someone else will chime in here.
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers?
STi valvetrain will rev happily to this level on later model years I'm familiar with, not sure about early models.
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box?
Subaru, second hand. PPG do an uprated kit which seems to be doing well. Avoid PAR, loads of them have failed.
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
You'll probably break things, but 450 BHP in road use seems reliable on my MY00 UK rear diff and the six speed centre and front diff over thousands of miles, but lots of drag/track will probably be different.
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Roger Clark do an uprated one with a reworked plunger - which has been known to stick on standard pumps.
I sound like a Roger Clark fan club, but I trust them as a supplier. They are expensive, but their stuff seems to not break unlike the stuff from elsewhere (another supplier mentioned in this thread - everything went wrong I am afraid, I was unlucky, but it was a turbo failure, three engines, gearbox and over-rated clutch which to be fair didn't slip but didn't have evidence of the claimed clamping pressure and a simple test suggested it was nowhere near). All I have from Roger Clark is their clutch and oil pump though, but others have had impressive 2.0 results from their kit which has held together well. I am running a standard Subaru EJ257 short motor at c.440-450 BHP and 400 lbft. In road use this is cheap, quiet (a relief after three failed stroker builds), torquey, but the headgaskets do go if you push harder than this, and I wouldn't run it at this on track, it seems good as a cheap road engine that is disposable. Some people are having issues with oil or water temperatures on larger capacity blocks.
For big output with reliability, you won't go wrong with a Roger Clark built 2.0, but it will not be cheap.
Last edited by john banks; 11 November 2004 at 11:06 PM.
11 November 2004, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by john banks
1) I cant seem to find anyone doing head gaskets, pistons or rods I know Omega and Wiseco do pistons. Where can they be sourced and are there any alternatives. I can get Wisecos for good money, are they any good in Subarus?
You can get Omegas from Roger Clark. Wisecos rattled like nothing else in three of my stroker engines, but apparently not in others.
2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp?
Roger Clark do Arrow rods. They would make your 450 BHP more reliable I expect.
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp?
Depends more on torque, I run 400 lbft through a Roger Clark 240mm (IIRC) organic - but for road not track use, it has held about 450 lbft as well, but the engine let go before it got a really good testing.
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp?
Someone else will chime in here.
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers?
STi valvetrain will rev happily to this level on later model years I'm familiar with, not sure about early models.
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box?
Subaru, second hand. PPG do an uprated kit which seems to be doing well. Avoid PAR, loads of them have failed.
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
You'll probably break things, but 450 BHP in road use seems reliable on my MY00 UK rear diff and the six speed centre and front diff over thousands of miles, but lots of drag/track will probably be different.
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Roger Clark do an uprated one with a reworked plunger - which has been known to stick on standard pumps.
I sound like a Roger Clark fan club, but I trust them as a supplier. They are expensive, but their stuff seems to not break unlike the stuff from elsewhere (another supplier mentioned in this thread - everything went wrong I am afraid, I was unlucky, but it was a turbo failure, three engines, gearbox and over-rated clutch which to be fair didn't slip but didn't have evidence of the claimed clamping pressure and a simple test suggested it was nowhere near). All I have from Roger Clark is their clutch and oil pump though, but others have had impressive 2.0 results from their kit which has held together well. I am running a standard Subaru EJ257 short motor at c.440-450 BHP and 400 lbft. In road use this is cheap, quiet (a relief after three failed stroker builds), torquey, but the headgaskets do go if you push harder than this, and I wouldn't run it at this on track, it seems good as a cheap road engine that is disposable. Some people are having issues with oil or water temperatures on larger capacity blocks.
For big output with reliability, you won't go wrong with a Roger Clark built 2.0, but it will not be cheap.
You can get Omegas from Roger Clark. Wisecos rattled like nothing else in three of my stroker engines, but apparently not in others.
2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp?
Roger Clark do Arrow rods. They would make your 450 BHP more reliable I expect.
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp?
Depends more on torque, I run 400 lbft through a Roger Clark 240mm (IIRC) organic - but for road not track use, it has held about 450 lbft as well, but the engine let go before it got a really good testing.
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp?
Someone else will chime in here.
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers?
STi valvetrain will rev happily to this level on later model years I'm familiar with, not sure about early models.
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box?
Subaru, second hand. PPG do an uprated kit which seems to be doing well. Avoid PAR, loads of them have failed.
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
You'll probably break things, but 450 BHP in road use seems reliable on my MY00 UK rear diff and the six speed centre and front diff over thousands of miles, but lots of drag/track will probably be different.
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Roger Clark do an uprated one with a reworked plunger - which has been known to stick on standard pumps.
I sound like a Roger Clark fan club, but I trust them as a supplier. They are expensive, but their stuff seems to not break unlike the stuff from elsewhere (another supplier mentioned in this thread - everything went wrong I am afraid, I was unlucky, but it was a turbo failure, three engines, gearbox and over-rated clutch which to be fair didn't slip but didn't have evidence of the claimed clamping pressure and a simple test suggested it was nowhere near). All I have from Roger Clark is their clutch and oil pump though, but others have had impressive 2.0 results from their kit which has held together well. I am running a standard Subaru EJ257 short motor at c.440-450 BHP and 400 lbft. In road use this is cheap, quiet (a relief after three failed stroker builds), torquey, but the headgaskets do go if you push harder than this, and I wouldn't run it at this on track, it seems good as a cheap road engine that is disposable. Some people are having issues with oil or water temperatures on larger capacity blocks.
For big output with reliability, you won't go wrong with a Roger Clark built 2.0, but it will not be cheap.
Your help is much appriciated, thanks
Whats an EJ257 btw?
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12 November 2004, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bren
1) I cant seem to find anyone doing head gaskets, pistons or rods I know Omega and Wiseco do pistons. Where can they be sourced and are there any alternatives. I can get Wisecos for good money, are they any good in Subarus?
I can source all my own parts, thats not a problem. I also have a tried and trusted tuner. I just need help in deciding on the spec
I can source all my own parts, thats not a problem. I also have a tried and trusted tuner. I just need help in deciding on the spec
12 November 2004, 09:08 AM
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ej257, is the US 2.5 short block currently available.
There are afew suppliers out their but ring round.
The RCMS stuff is expensive, very, but it appears to work.
There are afew suppliers out their but ring round.
The RCMS stuff is expensive, very, but it appears to work.
12 November 2004, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
do these posts now contradict??
I need to know who manufacturers the parts, not who retails them.
If you dont have anything constructive to add then please dont post at all, I dont need sarcastic comments, they dont help me.
12 November 2004, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
ej257, is the US 2.5 short block currently available.
There are afew suppliers out their but ring round.
The RCMS stuff is expensive, very, but it appears to work.
There are afew suppliers out their but ring round.
The RCMS stuff is expensive, very, but it appears to work.
What sort of power will the US short block take and will my heads etc bolt straight on to it?
We bring a lot of stuff from the US so shipping a bottom end over would be no problem
12 November 2004, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bren
Im saying that I dont want to be told to go to XY or Z to buy all the parts and get the work done. Thats of NO use to me whatsoever.
I need to know who manufacturers the parts, not who retails them.
If you dont have anything constructive to add then please dont post at all, I dont need sarcastic comments, they dont help me.
I need to know who manufacturers the parts, not who retails them.
If you dont have anything constructive to add then please dont post at all, I dont need sarcastic comments, they dont help me.
you really should learn how to be polite.. and I'll post where I like.
just because a suggestion is not to your liking does it hurt to say thank you and then elaborate on why you would prefer something else rather than highlighting the fact that this site has gone so far down hill and is being taken over by impolite takers and no givers. FFS
12 November 2004, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
you really have an attitude problem don't you.. the suggestion I gave supplies parts or more.. and someone else seconded it!!!
you really should learn how to be polite.. and I'll post where I like.
just because a suggestion is not to your liking does it hurt to say thank you and then elaborate on why you would prefer something else rather than highlighting the fact that this site has gone so far down hill and is being taken over by impolite takers and no givers. FFS
you really should learn how to be polite.. and I'll post where I like.
just because a suggestion is not to your liking does it hurt to say thank you and then elaborate on why you would prefer something else rather than highlighting the fact that this site has gone so far down hill and is being taken over by impolite takers and no givers. FFS
Originally Posted by Bren
I can source all my own parts, thats not a problem. I also have a tried and trusted tuner. I just need help in deciding on the spec
Originally Posted by Green
do these posts now contradict??
12 November 2004, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
Bren,
I think you may just see all the constructive comments evapourate.
If you're so versed at getting parts, then please go away and do so.
Paul
I think you may just see all the constructive comments evapourate.
If you're so versed at getting parts, then please go away and do so.
Paul
It just seems that whenever I ask for help and advice I tend to get unhelpful remarks thrown back at me. It gets my back up and I respond in kind.
12 November 2004, 10:09 AM
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I have got to say, i second what Paul has said!
Who knows what the 2.5's will take, head gaskets seem to be weak at 400+, as both John and I have found out.
Who knows what the 2.5's will take, head gaskets seem to be weak at 400+, as both John and I have found out.
12 November 2004, 10:12 AM
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Bren
Read your 1st post again, and then read your 3rd post. They do have a large eliment of contradiction.
JGM Suggested a supplier of the parts, as that is what you appear to request in your 1st post, you then state in your 3rd post that you will source them all yourself.
Kind of suggests "why you asking then" if you know what i mean.
Read your 1st post again, and then read your 3rd post. They do have a large eliment of contradiction.
JGM Suggested a supplier of the parts, as that is what you appear to request in your 1st post, you then state in your 3rd post that you will source them all yourself.
Kind of suggests "why you asking then" if you know what i mean.
12 November 2004, 10:15 AM
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Finally Bren, sadly your general feeling of unhelpfullness is a downside to Scoobynet these days. If you want more specific answers logon to bbs.22b.com
Steven
(incidently you will find everyone of us who have replied here, on 22b, plus many more useful individuals)
Steven
(incidently you will find everyone of us who have replied here, on 22b, plus many more useful individuals)
12 November 2004, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
Finally Bren, sadly your general feeling of unhelpfullness is a downside to Scoobynet these days. If you want more specific answers logon to bbs.22b.com
Steven
(incidently you will find everyone of us who have replied here, on 22b, plus many more useful individuals)
Steven
(incidently you will find everyone of us who have replied here, on 22b, plus many more useful individuals)
Joylly suggests:
Originally Posted by Green
just because a suggestion is not to your liking does it hurt to say thank you and then elaborate on why you would prefer something else
12 November 2004, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
I think you may just see all the constructive comments evapourate.
If you're so versed at getting parts, then please go away and do so.
If you're so versed at getting parts, then please go away and do so.
12 November 2004, 10:23 AM
#21
Bren,
The 'problem' is that the people posting (to help you remember) are generally doing so out of personal experience. When someone who has spent £1000s on various engine rebuilds and gearboxes gives you the benefit of his experience, you would do well to listen.
If you just want to get the a collection of the best cheap parts and try them for yourself there is nothing stopping you. But what is being offered here is proven solutions that are low risk.
If you really want the reliability, then why do you begrudge paying someone for the privelidge? The fact that you're not just getting your tuner (that you trust) to furnish you with all this info suggests that he doesn't know. So you are expecting to get the benefit of SN traders expertise without paying for it, and getting your parts elsewhere.
I am all for getting your parts cheap, and not following the crowd, but you do so at your own risk, and please don't take the pi55.
Paul
The 'problem' is that the people posting (to help you remember) are generally doing so out of personal experience. When someone who has spent £1000s on various engine rebuilds and gearboxes gives you the benefit of his experience, you would do well to listen.
If you just want to get the a collection of the best cheap parts and try them for yourself there is nothing stopping you. But what is being offered here is proven solutions that are low risk.
If you really want the reliability, then why do you begrudge paying someone for the privelidge? The fact that you're not just getting your tuner (that you trust) to furnish you with all this info suggests that he doesn't know. So you are expecting to get the benefit of SN traders expertise without paying for it, and getting your parts elsewhere.
I am all for getting your parts cheap, and not following the crowd, but you do so at your own risk, and please don't take the pi55.
Paul
12 November 2004, 10:23 AM
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Ive just had a quick look at 22b, it seems to host a number of technical posts that will be of great help to me.
Thats the sort of help and info I was looking for, thanks
Thats the sort of help and info I was looking for, thanks
12 November 2004, 10:28 AM
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I never meant to cause offense with my post mentioning contradiction and sorry if it did.. I was asking for clarification by doing so, although yes I could have asked the question but I thought it was summed up pretty well with the quotes.. although now I can see that the could be taken as offensive but it was meant tongue in cheek.. perhaps I should have put a on the end too..
So I am still confused.. you are having trouble sourcing parts (but would like to source direct rather than a suppiler)? and want help on a spec?
You might get parts easier from some suppliers who hold stock and can advise on what works too.. usually very little difference in price due to them getting a discount from manufacture as a supplier etc..
could be taken as offensive but it was meant tongue in cheek.. perhaps I should have put a on the end too..So I am still confused.. you are having trouble sourcing parts (but would like to source direct rather than a suppiler)? and want help on a spec?
You might get parts easier from some suppliers who hold stock and can advise on what works too.. usually very little difference in price due to them getting a discount from manufacture as a supplier etc..
12 November 2004, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
Bren,
The 'problem' is that the people posting (to help you remember) are generally doing so out of personal experience. When someone who has spent £1000s on various engine rebuilds and gearboxes gives you the benefit of his experience, you would do well to listen.
If you just want to get the a collection of the best cheap parts and try them for yourself there is nothing stopping you. But what is being offered here is proven solutions that are low risk.
If you really want the reliability, then why do you begrudge paying someone for the privelidge? The fact that you're not just getting your tuner (that you trust) to furnish you with all this info suggests that he doesn't know. So you are expecting to get the benefit of SN traders expertise without paying for it, and getting your parts elsewhere.
I am all for getting your parts cheap, and not following the crowd, but you do so at your own risk, and please don't take the pi55.
Paul
The 'problem' is that the people posting (to help you remember) are generally doing so out of personal experience. When someone who has spent £1000s on various engine rebuilds and gearboxes gives you the benefit of his experience, you would do well to listen.
If you just want to get the a collection of the best cheap parts and try them for yourself there is nothing stopping you. But what is being offered here is proven solutions that are low risk.
If you really want the reliability, then why do you begrudge paying someone for the privelidge? The fact that you're not just getting your tuner (that you trust) to furnish you with all this info suggests that he doesn't know. So you are expecting to get the benefit of SN traders expertise without paying for it, and getting your parts elsewhere.
I am all for getting your parts cheap, and not following the crowd, but you do so at your own risk, and please don't take the pi55.
Paul
I dont expect any tuner to help me, why should they? But surely there are private individuals on here that go their own way. Surely not every Scooby owner gives their car to a tuner with an open cheque book?
Is there no accumulated knowledge that people can dip into on here? Isnt that partly what car specific BBs are for, the free sharing of information to the benefit of all? Thats what Im used to but from what you say Scoobynet is the opposite and information is only given in return for payment, a far more commercial view that I've experienced before.
12 November 2004, 10:39 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
I never meant to cause offense with my post mentioning contradiction and sorry if it did.. I was asking for clarification by doing so, although yes I could have asked the question but I thought it was summed up pretty well with the quotes.. although now I can see that the could be taken as offensive but it was meant tongue in cheek.. perhaps I should have put a on the end too..
So I am still confused.. you are having trouble sourcing parts (but would like to source direct rather than a suppiler)? and want help on a spec?
You might get parts easier from some suppliers who hold stock and can advise on what works too.. usually very little difference in price due to them getting a discount from manufacture as a supplier etc..
could be taken as offensive but it was meant tongue in cheek.. perhaps I should have put a on the end too..So I am still confused.. you are having trouble sourcing parts (but would like to source direct rather than a suppiler)? and want help on a spec?
You might get parts easier from some suppliers who hold stock and can advise on what works too.. usually very little difference in price due to them getting a discount from manufacture as a supplier etc..
As said above, if you knew me then youd know why I couldnt just leave the car with a tuner and let them get on with it I already have a large number of suppliers round that world that I can source parts from. What Im having problems with is finding manufacturers of said parts.
Ive only just started looking but my brief exploration seems to reveal that the manufacturers Id usually use (Trust, Apexi, Pauter, HKS etc) dont seem to offer much, if anything, in the way of pistons, head gaskets, rods etc.
I know Wiseco do pistons and I can source them no problem. I also know that Omega do pistons but I need to find a suppier of them as I dont even know where theyre manufactured.
Ive hit pretty much a brick wall with rods other than an HKS stroker kit (too pricey) or, as was posted earlier, Arrow. I can probably source Arrow direct from the manufacturers
I still have no idea who makes head gaskets or what lift/duration cams work well in these cars or even if theyre necessary. Same applies to retainers and springs, at what rev limit are they needed?
12 November 2004, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
Bren,
So you are expecting to get the benefit of SN traders expertise without paying for it, and getting your parts elsewhere.
So you are expecting to get the benefit of SN traders expertise without paying for it, and getting your parts elsewhere.
12 November 2004, 10:56 AM
#28
That's not really what I meant. For instance there are various recommendations on here for Roger Clark Motorsport, and they supply a number of RCMS branded items, like headstuds, gaskets and whatever. But they are not going to tell you exactly where they are made so you can go direct and get them for a little cheaper.
If you want to buy pistons, rods, turbos or whatever that are not widely used and relatively proven, go ahead, but you are going to be the beta tester. The products suggested here so far have been tested to some extent and come with a degree of assurance, unfortunately some of them are only available through conventional channels. That doesn't stop your tuner friend trying to get some of these parts at trade prices though.
Paul
If you want to buy pistons, rods, turbos or whatever that are not widely used and relatively proven, go ahead, but you are going to be the beta tester. The products suggested here so far have been tested to some extent and come with a degree of assurance, unfortunately some of them are only available through conventional channels. That doesn't stop your tuner friend trying to get some of these parts at trade prices though.
Paul
12 November 2004, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bren
Pavlo is stating that information will, and should, only be given to those who pay for it is he not?
The suggestion I made can supply just the parts or organise a build..
Same as RCM etc..