fitting a scoobyecu....again !
#1
fitting a scoobyecu....again !
Ok took the ECU out to fit the scoobyecu in it (93 wrx)
Anyway turns out I cant just fit it in I have to solder it.
So I bought myself a nice mircro solder iron out of B&Q, cause how hard could soldering be ? :-S
Now I matched the chip up on the ECU and there is NO WAY on this earth I am going to get the solder tip in to secure one of the sides down on the ECU
How did you guys do it ?
If you have soldered it you will know what I mean there is either a chip in the way on the board to stop you getting in from the back with the iron or the chip is so small you cant get the iron under neath
Someone please help. I am sick of stripping the interior apart to get at the ECU !
Anyway turns out I cant just fit it in I have to solder it.
So I bought myself a nice mircro solder iron out of B&Q, cause how hard could soldering be ? :-S
Now I matched the chip up on the ECU and there is NO WAY on this earth I am going to get the solder tip in to secure one of the sides down on the ECU
How did you guys do it ?
If you have soldered it you will know what I mean there is either a chip in the way on the board to stop you getting in from the back with the iron or the chip is so small you cant get the iron under neath
Someone please help. I am sick of stripping the interior apart to get at the ECU !
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Don't understand your problem..... as I have done about 60+
Remove the board from the ECU case, turn it over and use a good quality soldering iron and solder sucker to remove the solder from the 28 holes (2 rows of 14).
Then fit the 28 pin chip socket, then plug the ScoobyECU into the new socket. It's best to use a socket cause then you can just remove the ScoobyECU if required (and rejoin J1 to put back to stock)
Cut of Remove the brown resistor J1 (Not L1) and away you go.
Remove the board from the ECU case, turn it over and use a good quality soldering iron and solder sucker to remove the solder from the 28 holes (2 rows of 14).
Then fit the 28 pin chip socket, then plug the ScoobyECU into the new socket. It's best to use a socket cause then you can just remove the ScoobyECU if required (and rejoin J1 to put back to stock)
Cut of Remove the brown resistor J1 (Not L1) and away you go.
#3
Originally Posted by Scott.T
Don't understand your problem..... as I have done about 60+
Remove the board from the ECU case, turn it over and use a good quality soldering iron and solder sucker to remove the solder from the 28 holes (2 rows of 14).
Then fit the 28 pin chip socket, then plug the ScoobyECU into the new socket. It's best to use a socket cause then you can just remove the ScoobyECU if required (and rejoin J1 to put back to stock)
Cut of Remove the brown resistor J1 (Not L1) and away you go.
Remove the board from the ECU case, turn it over and use a good quality soldering iron and solder sucker to remove the solder from the 28 holes (2 rows of 14).
Then fit the 28 pin chip socket, then plug the ScoobyECU into the new socket. It's best to use a socket cause then you can just remove the ScoobyECU if required (and rejoin J1 to put back to stock)
Cut of Remove the brown resistor J1 (Not L1) and away you go.
thanks
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by VAL113R
so the solders which are on the ECU board (the ones which stop you pushing the scoobyecu into place on the board) can be pushed through and made like a newer style board if you like ? where the chip is pushed through the holes into place ?
thanks
thanks
Heat them then suck the solder out with a solder sucking tool. The Soldering iron and tool need to be good quality tho' to avoid damaging the main board.
#7
bought a solder pump today to remove the solder from the board
have just removed the solder and managed to get the ScoobyECU fitted, cut the resistor and plugged it in
turned the ignition to stage 2 and the injectors etc are clicking and the lights on the dash are flashing along with the Check Engine Light
the car wont turn over.
??
have just removed the solder and managed to get the ScoobyECU fitted, cut the resistor and plugged it in
turned the ignition to stage 2 and the injectors etc are clicking and the lights on the dash are flashing along with the Check Engine Light
the car wont turn over.
??
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#10
Originally Posted by Scott.T
Did you cut L1 or J1 ?
They look the same, but it's J1 that needs cutting.
They look the same, but it's J1 that needs cutting.
I tripple checked it !
also I took the ScoobyECU out and soldered the resistor back together again so I can get the car running.
It starts and drives ok but when I come to a junction it hunt and cuts out or just cuts out !
It was ok before....any ideas ?
#11
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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yup.. youve damaged something when doing your soldering.
Makesure your joint at J1 is ok.. remove the lacquer / paint and ensure a good joint.. also ensure you havent bridged tracks or scratched anything.
David
Makesure your joint at J1 is ok.. remove the lacquer / paint and ensure a good joint.. also ensure you havent bridged tracks or scratched anything.
David
#12
Originally Posted by David_Wallis
yup.. youve damaged something when doing your soldering.
Makesure your joint at J1 is ok.. remove the lacquer / paint and ensure a good joint.. also ensure you havent bridged tracks or scratched anything.
David
Makesure your joint at J1 is ok.. remove the lacquer / paint and ensure a good joint.. also ensure you havent bridged tracks or scratched anything.
David
ta
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