burtyb

Can anyone recommend a oil i should use for my scooby also is an itg a good air filter to use or is there a better replacement and last but not least can anyone advise me on what spark plugs i should use sorry for all the questions its just that its my first scooby and i want to treat it well CHEERS STEVE

danny_wrx

yes i am also interested in the answer to your questions as i need a new oil change

nellie

For oil try Motul 300V Power 15/50 fully synthetic,i used that all the time when i had my STI7,although i now use Castrol RS 10/60 in my EVO,both great oils not the cheapest but worth the extra,as for filters im not sure about the ITG,thought i read somewhere that its a bit to oily,someone will correct me on that if im wrong,i used a Green panel filter,very good flow and filtering,dont know about spark plugs on scoobs as i never changed them but on my EVO VIII i use Denso Iridium plugs which are great,HKS plugs are rebadged Denso.

davedipster

Mobil 1 Competition 15W50 is fine.

Dipster

micared

All of the above oils are well thought of...sti panel filter is recommended by the knowledgeable types on here...it's "dry", and is among the best performing.

Aaquil

Green Panel filter as recommended by the crew at TSL in Nottingham. I use Millers Fully Synthetic 10W60 in my Legacy Turbo but I will be trying Motul as recommended by some of the guys here.

EddScott

Just put Castrol 10/60 in mine and just hanged plugs to NGK PRF7B (I think thats the right code?) but use 6Bs if not modded.

When I got my car remapped I was told to change the ITG immediately - causes concern on MY99/00 cars and MAF sensors.

Also just changed at 50K on my MY00:

Gearbox oil - Castrol Syntrax
Lamda Sensor
MAF Sensor

If your not too bothered about fancy brakes etc I've also changed the front discs and pads for £120.

julian N/W wrx my93

that old oil question comes round again!!!!!!!

jonjo

The grade oil I've got in my MY94 import is castrol RS 10w60,but roger clarke motorsport recommended to me earlier on the phone today 15w50...not sure what make they use but one things for sure is that they know there scooby's.

Delboy2

If ya don't ask - Ya won't know, we were all newbies once.

As already suggested - Motul 300V, Mobil 15w50 and Castrol RS 10/60 seem the most suitable and the method for changing the oil and filter is listed below :-

Cheers

julian N/W wrx my93

no torque settings for the sump plug!!!!!!!

but i'd like to know them for the spark plugs, need to change them soon!

Lyricman

MY03 STI checked with Garage and they use Castrol Magnatec. Is this crap then.

theotherphil

The general consensus is that the Magnatec carbonises quickly. I use Silkolene Pro S 10W50.

si97

roger clark use the following

Engine oil: Silkolene 15W/50 ‘Pro R Ester Synthetic’ or 10W/50 ‘Pro S’ Ester Synthetic
Gearbox oil: Silkolene 75W/90 ‘Syn 5’ fully synthetic gear oil.
Differential oil: Silkolene 75W/90 ‘Syn 5’ Fully synthetic oil

leeps

Hi All
See no-one has mentioned royal purple oil ....
Very good and oil of choice in the SA .....

leeps

Johnny50

I use Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10w/60 in my 98 Scoob.
Works a treat.

scoobytravis

All Silkolene products used on my car since I started using TSL for servicing 2 years ago . They swear by Silkolene products and used on rally cars they have prepped aparently.

Graham

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

Ive got an ITG on my scoob at the moment from the previous owner and he had to replace the MAF. Ive been looking at this one:

MRT Group N Replacement Panel Filter - 39.95 - jap innovations

Supposed to be a good replacement if you want to keep your MAF.

How much is the green panel ones?

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Oil is very much a personal choice and people tend to stay loyal to a brand or a product if it works for them.

There are many debates on car forums about the right oil but its not always easy to assess the quality of an oil without the technical data which is not always available to the public.

One thing is for sure, you always get what you pay for. Good quality oils with high grade additives and more importantly good VI Improvers (to prevent "shearing down") are expensive to make and therefore it will be of no surprise that cutting corners is an often used commercial method of bringing "cheap" oil to the market.

There are many types of oils labelled synthetic on the market today which range from HC (Hydrocracked) / MC (Molecularly Converted) Mineral oils through to PAO's (Poly Alpha Olefins) and of course "Esters" which have been used in the aviation sector for years because of their durability and superior levels of protection. (Silkolene use ester in their PRO S and PRO R products)

It's a minefield and the choices are infinate but don't be fooled by some of the pretty cans on the shelves which say "synthetic" but in reality contain a very small percentage of the good stuff.

I have been watching the oil threads on this forum for a while now, it's interesting reading.

You have very powerful cars, many of which are modded, you should consider the toughest oil you can buy for "shear stability" and protection when the engine is being driven hard.

The last thing you want to do is put an oil in that's an sae 60 that shears down to sae 40 within 2000 miles or hard driving!

You don't have to take my word for it but the oil is the lifeblood of the engine, your cars require good ones.

Cheers
Simon

mikey f

Please continue Simon, as I have also looked at the "oil" threads and most are based around "I use this and it is good". Very rarely is there some technical advice or information.
Two East Midlands Garages are recommending Silloline engine oil. Is this regarded as "shear stable". I am guessing this is the degree to which the oil does not degrade under load. What recommendations do you have?

jgevers

Hi Simon,

You're right, there are huge differences between synthetic oils. As far as I am aware the oils that are strongest, most temperature stable and leave the least anount of deposits are based on polyolester. This is a man-made oil, multigrade by nature and very slippery.

Independent testing a few years ago on a rheometer at a well-known university showed polyolester based oils to have an enormous advantage over the normal di-ester, pao and hc based oils.

The polyolester based oils that are available at a reasonable price are Motul 300v and Red Line. I think the VAG PD and longlife oils might be part polyolester based.

regards,

Job

Claudius

Motul V300 is supposed to have the strongest oil film, just above Castrol RS. From what I have read somewhere, there are 2 different Castrol RSs?

Jefrey

Guys i've just bought mobil-1 0-40, would this be suited to my standard wrx MY95?.

I was going to change the oil now, but i shall wait for an anwser......

cheers

malinen

BIG NO NO! 10w-40 or 15w-50 !

jgevers

I wouldn't. Motul or Red Line

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Firstly, there are 2 Castrol RS Grades

Casrol RS Power 0w-40
Castrol Formula RS 10w-60

I would only recommend 10w-50 or 15w-50 for Scoobys the thinnest I would go would be an ester 5w-40.

Cheers
Simon

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Ok, time for some serious reading for those that are serious about oil.

The following is a small part of an article that some of you may have read written by Mr John Rowland (Chief Chemist - Silkolene) who has more than 40 years experience.
The whole article 5 pages is entitiled "Lubricating a Saburu" and I'll post up parts of it as I have time to put them to my computer.

This is a lesson on the basics, it gets more complicated but we need to start somewhere.

I have John's permission to post all or part of this article as it was written for SIDC but is in the Public Domain. I have no relationship with Silkolene other than as a Distributor of their products. Bear in mind that John is a Chemist not a salesman!

Building a good oil.

It is impossible to make a good 5w-40 or even 10w-40, using only mineral oil. The base oil is so thin, it just evaporates away at the high temperatures found in a powerful engine that is being used seriously. Although there are chemical compounds in there to prevent oil breakdown by oxygen in the atmosphere (oxidation) they cannot adequately protect vulnerable mineral oil at the 130 degC plus sump temperatures found in a hard working turbocharged or re-mapped engine.

The answer to this is synthetics. They are built up from simple chemical units, brick by brick so as to speak; to make an architect designed oil with properties to suit the demands of a modern engine.

The synthetic myth

The word “synthetic” once meant the brick by brick chemical building of a designer oil but the waters were muddied by a court case that took place in the USA some years ago. The outcome was that the right to call heavily modified mineral oil “synthetic” was won. This was the marketing executives dream; the chance to use the word “synthetic” on a can of oil without spending much extra on the contents!

Most lower-cost “synthetic” or “semi-synthetic” oils use these “hydrocracked” mineral oils. They do have some advantages, particularly in commercial diesel lubricants but their value in performance engines is marginal.

TRUE synthetics are expensive and in basic terms there are three broad catagories, each containing many types and viscocity grades:-

PIB’s (Polyisobutanes)

These are occasionally used as thickeners in motor oils and gear oils, but their main application is to suppress smoke in two-strokes.

The TWO important ones are:

ESTERS

All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic “esters” and have been for more than 50 years but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils around 20 years ago.
Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants work well from
-50 degC to 200 degC, and they have an added benefit. Due to their structure, “ester” molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non pressure-fed film has to hold the surfaces apart.
Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops, or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film.

Synthetic Hydrocarbons or PAO’s (Poly Alpha Olefins)

These are, in effect, very precisely made equivalents to the most desirable mineral oil molecules. As with “esters” they work very well at low temperatures and equally well at high temperatures, if protected by anti-oxidants. The difference is, they are inert and not polar. In fact, on their own they are hopeless “boundary” lubricants, with less load carrying ability than a mineral oil. They depend entirely on the correct chemical enhancements.

It is a fact that “PAO’s” work best in combination with “esters”. The “esters” assist load carrying, reduce friction and cut down seal drag and wear, whilst the “PAO’s” act as solvents for the multigrade polymers and a large assortment of special compounds that act as dispersants, detergents, anti-wear and anti-oxidant agents, and foam suppressants.
Both are very good at resisting high-temperature evaporation, and the “esters” in particular will never carbonise in turbo bearings even when provoked by anti-lag systems.

So, in conclusion, Ester gives the best protection and Ester/PAO combinations have great benefits because they work well together. They are generally more expensive but worth it if you wish to do the best for your engine.

Cheers,
Simon

Falkirk.scoob

hi simon

i would be very interested to know what oil you put in ur engine, cos you sure do know your stuff

oilman

iTrader: (9)

If I could I'd put an ester synthetic but owning an RX8, Mazda don't recommend Fully Synthetic and as it's under warranty. I use the recommended 5w-30 Semi Syn by Silkolene. Having said that once the warranty is up I'll switch to PRO S 5w-40.

If I owned a scooby, I'd use 10w-50 or 15w-50 - I wouldn't use a 10w-60 as I believe it's too thick for a modern high powered engine. I would even be tempted to use a 5w-40 ester for better cold start, power delivery and high temp film strength.

Cheers
Simon

jgevers

Hi Simon,

You don't seem to differentiate between di-ester and polyolester? I thought these where quite different, although both are polarised.

Do you work for silkolene? If so, remember the Lotus Esprit GT race car, sponsored by silkolene? The only lubricant that would keep the gearbox from breaking was polyolester based oil. Di-ester could not keep the strength at high pressure/temperature.

regards,

Job