mobile ecutek mapper's
#2
Originally Posted by craig5
is there any of the above that does a remap at you're home as i live in n-wales,i have a my00 turbo classic
#3
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if you order a remap through scoobyworld they will send someone to your home/works address and carry out the remap. i live in south wales and i asked the question, scoobyworld said it wouldnt be a problem.
cheers
Zen
cheers
Zen
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i know about scoobyworld but who is there mapper
you want the best you can get for 760 quid
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does anyone know what power increase i would get from tek3 i have a decat centre and ninja back box with jr filter on a my00 turbo,would i be best decating down pipe first,will it be alot louder as it's loud enough now,will i need a knocklink and any other bit's
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Power could increase to anywhere between 270 and 300 bhp (depending on other mods and how aggressive you have the remap).
If you're definitely getting a de-cat, then yes, do that first. Otherwise, at some point, you'll be forking out another £400 to "tweak the map". You don't have to de-cat though. The map will be completely customised to your car/mods. Obviously, a Tek3'd engine with a full de-cat system will be more powerful than with an OEM downpipe.
Regarding noise, a full de-cat system will be louder than one with the OEM downpipe. But it's more to do with your silencer. There are 3" full de-cat systems out there that aren't massively loud.
A Knocklink's always a good idea, no matter what mods you've done to the car. But it becomes more important the more power you extract from the engine. With the increased boost levels, and more aggressively advanced ignition timing the ECU remap will give you, personally I'd make it a priority purchase.
Other bits are down to personal preference really. An AFR gauge is always a good idea, and can help inform you of failing lambda sensors, and more importantly, failing MAF sensors (Knocklink will also help diagnose a failing MAF). A boost gauge is also a good idea, as it can help diagnose problems such as leaking induction tract or intercooler hoses, sticking wastegate solenoid, etc.
If you're definitely getting a de-cat, then yes, do that first. Otherwise, at some point, you'll be forking out another £400 to "tweak the map". You don't have to de-cat though. The map will be completely customised to your car/mods. Obviously, a Tek3'd engine with a full de-cat system will be more powerful than with an OEM downpipe.
Regarding noise, a full de-cat system will be louder than one with the OEM downpipe. But it's more to do with your silencer. There are 3" full de-cat systems out there that aren't massively loud.
A Knocklink's always a good idea, no matter what mods you've done to the car. But it becomes more important the more power you extract from the engine. With the increased boost levels, and more aggressively advanced ignition timing the ECU remap will give you, personally I'd make it a priority purchase.
Other bits are down to personal preference really. An AFR gauge is always a good idea, and can help inform you of failing lambda sensors, and more importantly, failing MAF sensors (Knocklink will also help diagnose a failing MAF). A boost gauge is also a good idea, as it can help diagnose problems such as leaking induction tract or intercooler hoses, sticking wastegate solenoid, etc.
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