Can you help me
#1
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Can you help me
I have a Sti 9 and fitted a hks ssqv yesterday and used it all day today with no probs. then tonight I fitted a Blitz sonic power air filter went out and it was fine for 10 mins and then it lost boost pressure it is now only showing 0.5 on the guage max has any one any ideas please
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update
reset ecu and it was fine again untill I got into 4th gear then it did it again could it be because of the heatsheild over the cone filter that the engine is not getting enough air and sending it in to limp mode?
TIA
Jamie
reset ecu and it was fine again untill I got into 4th gear then it did it again could it be because of the heatsheild over the cone filter that the engine is not getting enough air and sending it in to limp mode?
TIA
Jamie
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As JGM says, likeliest explanation is that the cone filter is screwing the MAF readings, causing the engine to run lean which in turn is causing detonation. Refit the standard induction kit and see if the problem goes away.
FWIW you won't gain anything with that filter anyway; high performance panel is a much better all-round bet.
Edited to ask: How did you reset the ECU on your STi9 (what exactly is that, BTW? MY03 STi Type UK, Japanese market car, something else?)? If you did it with a DeltaDash, what have you learned from the figures it's telling you?
FWIW you won't gain anything with that filter anyway; high performance panel is a much better all-round bet.
Edited to ask: How did you reset the ECU on your STi9 (what exactly is that, BTW? MY03 STi Type UK, Japanese market car, something else?)? If you did it with a DeltaDash, what have you learned from the figures it's telling you?
Last edited by greasemonkey; 08 April 2004 at 10:04 PM.
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STi9 I think is the Jap equivelent of STi8 UK.
So good point GM it will be mapped for 100ron fuel and you are running it on Shell Optimax at a minimum?? probably best to use Optimax + booster...
You would do far far better to get the car remapped for uk fuel and more power could be extracted at the same time.. either Pat or Bob.. Pat@22b.com and Bob www.brdevelopments.com
JGM
Edit to correct URL
So good point GM it will be mapped for 100ron fuel and you are running it on Shell Optimax at a minimum?? probably best to use Optimax + booster...
You would do far far better to get the car remapped for uk fuel and more power could be extracted at the same time.. either Pat or Bob.. Pat@22b.com and Bob www.brdevelopments.com
JGM
Edit to correct URL
Last edited by Jolly Green Monster; 08 April 2004 at 10:13 PM.
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I would put your old airbox back on until you can get the car mapped my uk99 did this then the Maf packed up but its not forced to be the maf just to be safe than sorry.
R.B
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thanks
No knocklink (yet) Im using optimax and am booked in with Bob on 19th of June. I know you can get as good results from a pannel but the induction kit sounds soooooo nice (still a boy racer at heart). to reset I disconnected the batt for an hour seemed to do the trick. If I use booster can I still use the induction or am I better putting it with my decat downpipe and fitting it the day before my remap.
Am I doing the engine harm as it is . thanks you guys what would us cluless monkeys do without scoobynet and its members?.
Jamie
No knocklink (yet) Im using optimax and am booked in with Bob on 19th of June. I know you can get as good results from a pannel but the induction kit sounds soooooo nice (still a boy racer at heart). to reset I disconnected the batt for an hour seemed to do the trick. If I use booster can I still use the induction or am I better putting it with my decat downpipe and fitting it the day before my remap.
Am I doing the engine harm as it is . thanks you guys what would us cluless monkeys do without scoobynet and its members?.
Jamie
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Originally Posted by PROBLEMCHILD75
thanks
No knocklink (yet) Im using optimax and am booked in with Bob on 19th of June. I know you can get as good results from a pannel but the induction kit sounds soooooo nice (still a boy racer at heart). to reset I disconnected the batt for an hour seemed to do the trick. If I use booster can I still use the induction or am I better putting it with my decat downpipe and fitting it the day before my remap.
Am I doing the engine harm as it is . thanks you guys what would us cluless monkeys do without scoobynet and its members?.
Jamie
No knocklink (yet) Im using optimax and am booked in with Bob on 19th of June. I know you can get as good results from a pannel but the induction kit sounds soooooo nice (still a boy racer at heart). to reset I disconnected the batt for an hour seemed to do the trick. If I use booster can I still use the induction or am I better putting it with my decat downpipe and fitting it the day before my remap.
Am I doing the engine harm as it is . thanks you guys what would us cluless monkeys do without scoobynet and its members?.
Jamie
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Yes it would cause it to happen..
I'd still be inclinded to refit original intake and wait until Bob maps the car..
Also worth ringing Bob and ordering a knocklink..
JGM
I'd still be inclinded to refit original intake and wait until Bob maps the car..
Also worth ringing Bob and ordering a knocklink..
JGM
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LOL just phoned the friend in question (330D owner) whats optimax he said he put plain old unleaded in. thank ****. straight to shell in morning for some optimax and then to Halfords for some booster and buy a Knocklink 1st thing next week. Thankyou all for your help I hope you have helped to sort my problem and made my weekend
jamie
jamie
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
STi9 I think is the Jap equivelent of STi8 UK.
Anyway, this thread proves once and for all that all this 7/8/9/10 bollocks is exactly that, bollocks. Nobody has a clue anyone else means unless they also give the model year and the market, so why not just cut the "number" and give the model year and market up front???
So good point GM it will be mapped for 100ron fuel and you are running it on Shell Optimax at a minimum?? probably best to use Optimax + booster...
Ah, there we go...
Originally Posted by PROBLEMCHILD75
No knocklink (yet)
Im using optimax
and am booked in with Bob on 19th of June.
I know you can get as good results from a pannel but the induction kit sounds soooooo nice
to reset I disconnected the batt for an hour seemed to do the trick.
If I use booster can I still use the induction
or am I better putting it with my decat downpipe and fitting it the day before my remap.
Am I doing the engine harm as it is.
Last edited by greasemonkey; 09 April 2004 at 12:05 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
STi9 I think is the Jap equivelent of STi8 UK.
Lol. Not JGM. The Japanese equivalent of the UK "STi8" is the JDM STi8. I don't know where you guys got the idea that "theirs" and "ours" are one apart...
Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
STi9 I think is the Jap equivelent of STi8 UK.
Lol. Not JGM. The Japanese equivalent of the UK "STi8" is the JDM STi8. I don't know where you guys got the idea that "theirs" and "ours" are one apart...
All a load of bollox like you say.
JGM
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
True they are not equivalent.. but when we had STi8 here they got the STi9.. I think.. now.. lol
There's no logic behind this, and different folk try and explain it in different ways, with two or three different arguments, none of which is either logical or correct.
The "reality", if there is one, is that the 2001MY STi(7) was only ever available in Japan, and so the 2002MY STi's (all of them, including the bugeye Type UK) are STi8's. The 2003MY STi's are 9's, and the 2004MY's are 10's.
All a load of bollox like you say. JGM
Last edited by greasemonkey; 09 April 2004 at 12:16 AM.
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GM
What do you mean by dodgy oil filter I had it serviced at a local subaru specialist on monday how do you know the difference between a good and a bad one.
thanks for the advice yet again but what booster should I get where from and will I still need it after the remap?
I was told that the Knocklink wasnt really needed this experience has taught me otherwise i will take your advice and will fit one asap and put the airbox back on till the remap.
thanks
Jamie
What do you mean by dodgy oil filter I had it serviced at a local subaru specialist on monday how do you know the difference between a good and a bad one.
thanks for the advice yet again but what booster should I get where from and will I still need it after the remap?
I was told that the Knocklink wasnt really needed this experience has taught me otherwise i will take your advice and will fit one asap and put the airbox back on till the remap.
thanks
Jamie
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Oops, it's been a long day PC! Meant to say "dodgy air filter" (i.e. causing MAF misreads), not oil filter! Note that I've corrected the post.
A KnockLink is desirable on any turbocharged Subaru, modified or not, as it'll pick up things like a dodgy tank of fuel or the early stages of MAF sensor failure long before any damage is done to the engine (provided you take notice of it of course!).
As for the booster, NF Race or Millers Octane Plus (or whatever it's called).
You can get the car remapped for whatever fuel you want. Bob would no doubt map for Optimax plus booster, or even a 102 octane race fuel if you asked him, but it's more practical to get the car mapped for Optimax. Even then you'd want to carry a bottle of booster in the boot just in case you ever get caught out in the sticks and have to fill up with someone else's Super, or, even worse, 95 RON...
A KnockLink is desirable on any turbocharged Subaru, modified or not, as it'll pick up things like a dodgy tank of fuel or the early stages of MAF sensor failure long before any damage is done to the engine (provided you take notice of it of course!).
As for the booster, NF Race or Millers Octane Plus (or whatever it's called).
You can get the car remapped for whatever fuel you want. Bob would no doubt map for Optimax plus booster, or even a 102 octane race fuel if you asked him, but it's more practical to get the car mapped for Optimax. Even then you'd want to carry a bottle of booster in the boot just in case you ever get caught out in the sticks and have to fill up with someone else's Super, or, even worse, 95 RON...
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The Group n rally cars are at Series 9 at this moment in time.The rally cars always stay ahead of the road cars even in Japan.Next Sti in Japan will be the STI 9,then the rally car will be a series 10 and so on
Sorry to go off topic but it also does my head in when people refer to versions that are still on the drawing board
Cheers Grant
"BBBBRRRMMMM>>>>PPPPTTSSSSHHHHHTTT>>>>>POP>>>>FLAM ES>>>> "
Sorry to go off topic but it also does my head in when people refer to versions that are still on the drawing board
Cheers Grant
"BBBBRRRMMMM>>>>PPPPTTSSSSHHHHHTTT>>>>>POP>>>>FLAM ES>>>> "
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Originally Posted by sti-spec-a
The Group n rally cars are at Series 9 at this moment in time.
The rally cars always stay ahead of the road cars even in Japan.
2000's cars, the last of the classic shapes, were the STi6 and S6. Same goes for 2001 (7), 2002 (8), 2003 (9) and 2004 (10). You can clearly see that the "numbers" match across the road and competition car lines each year, the rallycars have never been "ahead".
Incidentally, as the roadcars must be in production before a Group N rallycar can be homologated, the suggestion that the rallycars could somehow be ahead of the roadgoing versions could never have been correct. What you're suggesting here is akin to saying that Subaru rallied a Bugeye shape car in 2000, or a blobeye in 2002. You know as well as do that they didn't, and they wouldn't have been allowed to if they'd tried.
Next Sti in Japan will be the STI 9,then the rally car will be a series 10 and so on
Sorry to go off topic but it also does my head in
...when people refer to versions that are still on the drawing board
/pedant mode.
Last edited by greasemonkey; 10 April 2004 at 02:11 AM.
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Seems to matter to Grant, as he said his head was being done in!
The US market 2.5 STi doesn't fit into the numbering system established by the Japanese market car (and neither for that matter does the UK/Euro), they're significantly different cars developed for different markets, which is yet another reason not to lump 'em all in this silly "number" system.
The US model years are out of whack compared with the rest of the world though, as the bugeye was introduced eight months late over there. Thus their 2001MY cars are classic shapes, and so the first bugeyes had to be called 2002MY, even though they were '01MY's in the rest of the world. Confusing
The US market 2.5 STi doesn't fit into the numbering system established by the Japanese market car (and neither for that matter does the UK/Euro), they're significantly different cars developed for different markets, which is yet another reason not to lump 'em all in this silly "number" system.
The US model years are out of whack compared with the rest of the world though, as the bugeye was introduced eight months late over there. Thus their 2001MY cars are classic shapes, and so the first bugeyes had to be called 2002MY, even though they were '01MY's in the rest of the world. Confusing
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UPDATE
fitted the knocklink today and went out to set it up and test it. What an excellent device I should have fitted this on day one anyway with std air box on I was getting max 2 greens. So being a bit board today I put the induction kit on and straight away before I got to the top of the road all lights on when on boost. so took it back off untill I fit the downpipe before the remap.
Thanks for your help guys
Jamie
Thanks for your help guys
Jamie
#24
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Jamie, you have discovered how senstive any JDM car car be to seeming simple changes, the two things that are almost guarenteed to cause the ecu to drop in to fail safe limp home mode. Hopefully you have taken off the induction AND the SQV as both are bad news, the induction can be mapped around, the SQV not and should not be used imho.
GM ... starting to sound like a broken record now, the guy needed help not a lesson on Model Year coding.
I'm sorry but he could have blown his car up while everyone was discussing that instead of sticking to the point.
Bob (MY03 JDM STI9 GL owner)
GM ... starting to sound like a broken record now, the guy needed help not a lesson on Model Year coding.
I'm sorry but he could have blown his car up while everyone was discussing that instead of sticking to the point.
Bob (MY03 JDM STI9 GL owner)
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Originally Posted by Bob Rawle
GM ... starting to sound like a broken record now, the guy needed help not a lesson on Model Year coding.
If the more respected folk round these parts hadn't allowed the erroneous numbering scheme to become so widely accepted initially, it wouldn't have needed correcting, would it?
I'm sorry but he could have blown his car up while everyone was discussing that instead of sticking to the point.
#28
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GM, I know you will keep on ... hence my comment. Still if you have the time, why not ...
So, in contribution to the information pool ...
Fitting a knocklink is NOT a panecea to all and thats something everyone should be aware of. The other favourite saying is "its yur maf mate", same thing.
It won't always "pick up" a dodgy maf etc, it will "provide a visual indication of increased noise within the combustion chamber". That could be the result of a number of things, and a dodgy maf doesn't always cause det, it usually "causes cylinder overheating with resultant piston nip and big end failure due to lean running". So the first time the knocklink goes off under those circumstances is "after the event" ... too late.
I see many different cars in many different mod states, it horrifies me sometimes as to what is "said" to be the thing to do. Ignorance is bliss I suppose ... but expensive sometimes where these cars are concerned.
As to the more knowledgable .. more experienced I would say rather than anything else, sooner or later that can come to all if they put their mind to it.
But, those that are "more knowlegable" have a responsibility to those that are not, do they not ?
Jamies problem was serious, it could have taken him too long to "get a knocklink" and he could have carried on driving the car "in ignorance" with serious consequences, fortunately he was wiser than that.
My point was straightforward, you delight in reminding us all what we drive, and most people are grateful for the education. I'm normally more pedantic than most when it comes to specifics but, is a yard a yard or 914.4mm or something at the back of a house .. iyswim.
My curiosity, nothing more, prompts me to ask what your real name is btw, maybe I can match a face to it. Certainly a "good debate" is something few and far these days.
bob
So, in contribution to the information pool ...
Fitting a knocklink is NOT a panecea to all and thats something everyone should be aware of. The other favourite saying is "its yur maf mate", same thing.
It won't always "pick up" a dodgy maf etc, it will "provide a visual indication of increased noise within the combustion chamber". That could be the result of a number of things, and a dodgy maf doesn't always cause det, it usually "causes cylinder overheating with resultant piston nip and big end failure due to lean running". So the first time the knocklink goes off under those circumstances is "after the event" ... too late.
I see many different cars in many different mod states, it horrifies me sometimes as to what is "said" to be the thing to do. Ignorance is bliss I suppose ... but expensive sometimes where these cars are concerned.
As to the more knowledgable .. more experienced I would say rather than anything else, sooner or later that can come to all if they put their mind to it.
But, those that are "more knowlegable" have a responsibility to those that are not, do they not ?
Jamies problem was serious, it could have taken him too long to "get a knocklink" and he could have carried on driving the car "in ignorance" with serious consequences, fortunately he was wiser than that.
My point was straightforward, you delight in reminding us all what we drive, and most people are grateful for the education. I'm normally more pedantic than most when it comes to specifics but, is a yard a yard or 914.4mm or something at the back of a house .. iyswim.
My curiosity, nothing more, prompts me to ask what your real name is btw, maybe I can match a face to it. Certainly a "good debate" is something few and far these days.
bob