Hello All

Right then been having a few problems with me motor... here's whats happening

Last week the CHECK ENGINE light flicked on and off intermittantly for a few minutes, then stayed off.. The car has been running fine BTW

I did an error code check and this showed error codes
22 Knock Sensor
23 Air Flow sensor

Did this by ign off, connected black connectors under dashboard, ign on, engine lamp flashed code to me...

So then proceeded to do a ECU reset, Did this :- Ign off, connected black connectors and green connectors under dashboard, turned ingnition on, ENGINE LAMP DID NOT FLASH ANY CODE, press acc to floor, then back to half way for 2 seconds, started engine and drove for say 3/4 mile (car was allready warm) and ENGINE CHECK lamp flashed on/off steady flash, no error codes at all. So stopped the car, undid connectors and drove off, car runs fine...

After 5 miles driving and NO ENGINE CHECK lamp at all, I decided to check ecu for codes again just for curosity (by joining black connector) this showed the same codes as above 22 and 23, even though I had just reset the ECU and the ENGINE CHECK lamp hadn't come on at all.

SO i did ECU reset again, when stopped car to un-plug both connectors, i just undid the green one, left back one connected, turned ign on and got cdoes 22 and 23 again??

Am I not reseting ECU correctly??

If I am, why do I get an error code straight away although ECU Check lamp doesn't light at all when driving?

Once the ECU see's an error, does the ECU Check Engine lamp light up and stays lit until error code is retrieved??

My green connector is 2 pin with only one spade term used green/yellow and back/red wire

My black connector is 1 pin (spade type) with black/red wire and red/black wire.

BTW The car idles at 900rpm fine, albiet it drops to 1200 ish after throttle close and goes down to 900 slowly

Any help/information will be great!

Cheers

Rob White

 

Seems like you've done the right thing with the reset. I have heard of cases where the CEL lamp hasn't come on. May be that both of them are actually dead and giving the fault signal straight away.

Bit odd that it idles fine after a reset, but ECU is saying the MAF is dead.

Best to get it onto a select monitor.

MB

 

Aha....

So where do I go to get it select monitored???

Cheers

Rob

 

Subaru dealer, or Subaru tuning company.

 

You could always disconnect the battery for 24 hours as this will have the same effect as a reset.

Early ECUs seem to be very sensative, I'm sure I've read that often it's a poor earth connection.

Mark A

 

It sounds like the sensors need replaced if the ECU is detecting a proble so quickly after reset.

 

btt

Any more peeps with ideas???

Rob