Oil over filled by 0.5 litre - Muppets
04 February 2004, 01:40 PM
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Oil over filled by 0.5 litre - Muppets
Just bought a MY00 Turbo, checked the oil level and it was up around the notch.
So I checked it cold (RTFM) and it's still way up there.
Took it to SGT to be checked out (not the Subaru dealer that sold it to me) and they did a drain and refil minus half a litre, gratis.
Well done SGT!
So I checked it cold (RTFM) and it's still way up there.
Took it to SGT to be checked out (not the Subaru dealer that sold it to me) and they did a drain and refil minus half a litre, gratis.
Well done SGT!
04 February 2004, 05:03 PM
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Isn't it reassuring to know that...
A. Main dealers may or may not change the oil "the correct way".
B. Main dealers use sh!te oil.
C. Main dealers over-fill the oil.
And we use them because... oh yeah, to get our service history stamp and keep our warranties valid. Mint.
A. Main dealers may or may not change the oil "the correct way".
B. Main dealers use sh!te oil.
C. Main dealers over-fill the oil.
And we use them because... oh yeah, to get our service history stamp and keep our warranties valid. Mint.
04 February 2004, 06:54 PM
#5
Must admit filling the oil on these things is a pain...I overfilled it twice by accident myself 
One minute it's between max and min...then add a little more, and it ends up way over the max mark
I can see how easy it is for others to do.
IMO the dipstick is crap, somehow it scrapes oil on it it from the tube when it's withdrawn, making it difficult to see the true level, it also seems to have a higher reading on one side of the dipstic than the other. I have been known in the past to use a extra long cable tie instead! Plus the time it takes for the oil to drain from the head to the sump seems to take ages.
Odd thing too is sometimes I've only needed 4 litres, other times I used almost 5 litres!
These days, I just fill it with about 4 litres (as long as it's above MIN), and keep an extra 1/2 a litre with me. Use the car a little, then I recheck and top up after it's been stood for at least 5-10 mins. Seems to be the best filling system I've found so far.
The problem with the dealers I feel is that they rush it, when they come to fill it. Sure you can can glug the first 4 litres in no probs, but it's that last bit they need to take the time over (and wait for it to drain to the sump).
One minute it's between max and min...then add a little more, and it ends up way over the max mark
I can see how easy it is for others to do.IMO the dipstick is crap, somehow it scrapes oil on it it from the tube when it's withdrawn, making it difficult to see the true level, it also seems to have a higher reading on one side of the dipstic than the other. I have been known in the past to use a extra long cable tie instead! Plus the time it takes for the oil to drain from the head to the sump seems to take ages.
Odd thing too is sometimes I've only needed 4 litres, other times I used almost 5 litres!
These days, I just fill it with about 4 litres (as long as it's above MIN), and keep an extra 1/2 a litre with me. Use the car a little, then I recheck and top up after it's been stood for at least 5-10 mins. Seems to be the best filling system I've found so far.
The problem with the dealers I feel is that they rush it, when they come to fill it. Sure you can can glug the first 4 litres in no probs, but it's that last bit they need to take the time over (and wait for it to drain to the sump).
04 February 2004, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Judge
You might wanna check your boost solenoid, as it may have "breathed in" some of that oil...
Is it easy to clean?
05 February 2004, 08:42 AM
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Click here for a picture of it. If you look just under the words "Driver strut tower", it's the small blue cylindrical device, with either 2 or 3 pipes going in/out of it.
You need to put the car into ECU test mode, my connecting the green connectors together under the steering column. It's the same procedure as here for the diagnostic read mode, only using the greens instead of the blacks. Whilst all the relays and solenoids are clicking, you can disconnect the pipes from the boost solenoid, and spray brake cleaner inside the solenoid and the pipes, then put all back together again. You may as well reset the ECU whilst you're at it. The instructions for that are also on the same site.
You need to put the car into ECU test mode, my connecting the green connectors together under the steering column. It's the same procedure as here for the diagnostic read mode, only using the greens instead of the blacks. Whilst all the relays and solenoids are clicking, you can disconnect the pipes from the boost solenoid, and spray brake cleaner inside the solenoid and the pipes, then put all back together again. You may as well reset the ECU whilst you're at it. The instructions for that are also on the same site.
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05 February 2004, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Judge
Click here for a picture of it. If you look just under the words "Driver strut tower", it's the small blue cylindrical device, with either 2 or 3 pipes going in/out of it.
You need to put the car into ECU test mode, my connecting the green connectors together under the steering column. It's the same procedure as here for the diagnostic read mode, only using the greens instead of the blacks. Whilst all the relays and solenoids are clicking, you can disconnect the pipes from the boost solenoid, and spray brake cleaner inside the solenoid and the pipes, then put all back together again. You may as well reset the ECU whilst you're at it. The instructions for that are also on the same site.
You need to put the car into ECU test mode, my connecting the green connectors together under the steering column. It's the same procedure as here for the diagnostic read mode, only using the greens instead of the blacks. Whilst all the relays and solenoids are clicking, you can disconnect the pipes from the boost solenoid, and spray brake cleaner inside the solenoid and the pipes, then put all back together again. You may as well reset the ECU whilst you're at it. The instructions for that are also on the same site.
05 February 2004, 12:16 PM
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You could do I suppose, but it would be better if it was in test mode. If the internals are sticking, you stand a better chance of cleaning them whilst they're cycling through their "usual routine". The spray stands more of a chance of getting to all the bits it needs to. 
05 February 2004, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Judge
You could do I suppose, but it would be better if it was in test mode. If the internals are sticking, you stand a better chance of cleaning them whilst they're cycling through their "usual routine". The spray stands more of a chance of getting to all the bits it needs to.
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