Can anyone confirm what voltage range the sensor operates on ie does it read values up to 1 volt or 1 to 5 volts.

 

My understanding is it is upto 1 volt.

0.87/0.88 perfect on boost fueling.. greater than that too rich

Idle about 0.81

Cruise about 0.78

Medium throttle inbetween 0.78 and 0.88

JGM

 

Indeed it is beween 0 and 1 volt. These are my reading (Autometer AFR gauge):-

Idle - all over the shop, between 0.05 and 0.75.
Cruise (off throttle) - as for idle, and sometimes even 0.
Cruise (closed loop) - as for idle, but more rapid.
WOT (open loop) - as a rule of thumb, preferably around 0.89, below is too lean, above is too rich.

 

ive seen 0.915 on mine for a brief moment

which suits me down to the ground as im running 1.3 bar boost

it normaly sits about 0.975/0.995 ish although it will drop down if held on boost due to the lambda heating up and reading lean

 

Which car? A narrow band sensor produces typically 0-1v dpendant on type however the pseudo wide bands in the new age cars produce a much wider range.

Assuming you mean the narrow band which is the only sensor in a GC8 or is the rear sensor in a new age then 0-1v (ish) is what it is.

cheers

bob

 

when this sensor goes would it cause hesitations on WOT and partial throttle,overboosts and would it cause the rev counter to drop to 0 for a split second after overboost
any way of telling if the lamda sensor is gone.
would it show up in diagnostic of ecu
thx

 

I think it would cause hesitation on part throttle, but I wouldn't have thought so on WOT, or idle dropping to 0. That sounds more like MAF sensor. You could use the ECU diagnostic mode to check for any fault codes, and you could reset the ECU as an extra check for MAF problems, as the ECU can learn its way round MAF problems, which ain't good. You wouldn't normally get a MAF error code, unless it's totally gone.

 

well my ecu shows no codes but it did show a code for throttle position sensor which cleared when reset.if this was gone could it cause those symptoms.it stalls sometimes at junctions too

 

Possibly, but I'd still be looking at your MAF if I were you. Was the idle any better or worse after your ECU reset? Another test you could do is try unplugging the MAF connection whilst the engine is idling. If the engine stalls, or nearly stalls, your MAF may be OK. If there's little or no change, then I'd seriously consider investing £70...