Am I the only one who incorrectly compressed the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt (96 WRX). I know NOW after doing it that it should be compressed vertically.

I compressed it slowly, it's back on the engine now with new belt and 'seems' ok. (engine hasn't been run yet,out of car at present)

My questions are:
What is the reason these cylinders must be compressed vertically, any experts on hydraulics out there?.

If this hasn't caused internal damage, will I get away with removing, compressing again verically, refitting?

 

BTW in a vice...

 

The subaru manual has details of how to compress it, vertically like you say, and also there is an inspection procedure, including a pressure underwhich it shouldn't move..

I'll email you a copy..

JGM

PS: You have mail once I have written it.

 

You would have mail, only not email address in your profile.

Email me and I'll forward it to you.

JGM

 

In actual fact the website I got a copy from is current UP..

Linked from here in the Subaru section under workshop manuals..

site

All that said would it not just be piece of mind to replace it?

JGM

 

Cheers JGM,
wish I had that info before I changed the belt!. Probably best to replace it alright. I was just curious as to why these cylinders shouldn't be compressed horizontally

 

Many specialist's keep these instock & make recommendations over replacing them; though some will replace.

At or near the £125 plus vat mark, I tend to make a recommendation....

 

I presume the valve works differently when horrizontal to give more tension on the belt but turning it vertical allows it to be compressed for refitting without forcing oil through the valve in the wrong direction or two quickly.. just the way the oil flows through the valve inside it.. I am guessing but cannot see it being any other reason.. perhaps another valve opens when vertical allowing it be compressed..

Buy a replacement and cut the old one open to see?!

JGM

 

I'll be replacing my tensioner (MY00) when the belt gets done.
Too many seem to fail directly or shortley after from my liking.

I'd rather pay £125 for a new tensioner, then for a strip down/new valves

 

The tensioner is recommended to be compressed bertically, so as to "prevent" and passage of the oil fluid from passing down the side of the oil seals, thus loosing pressure when re compressing in a "vice" SIDEWAYS.
They have been "known" to fail by doing this, so best to re compress vertically.
The other way to check, is if there is a visible oil film on the top of the seal on top of the tensioner piston, best to replace it now before it fails, as this is the early warning of oil pressure loss, followed by a very loud mechncal "knock" noise when starting up, normally from cold.

So there you go chaps and chap esses. now you know.