afr lighting
No - mine are all out at idle, as the instructions say it will be all over when the car is being driven normally and will read accurately at wot. I tend to see blue at wot moving to green - yellow as my speed increases.
Have you wired it up correctly?
One of the 3 wires in the plug is power for the sensor heater.
Chris
Have you wired it up correctly?
One of the 3 wires in the plug is power for the sensor heater.
Chris
Hell yes. Do you happen to know what lambda voltage values correspond to the illumination of each LED?
If you don't, you can't tell whether the readings are in-parameter or not.
If you don't, you can't tell whether the readings are in-parameter or not.
it says on the information leaflet with it. could it possibly be a problem with the dv i have fitted. scoty reckoned it may be the problem, cause i also have quite a rough idle.
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From: Surrey Somewhere, From 341 bhp '99 STI V to '98 Merc CLK & '00 Peugeot 306 XSI to '01 E46 M3 :)
Doesnt sound like you have wired it correctly, or your Lambda sensor is totally shot.
My old Autometer AFR used to go to full green on WOT and bounce back and forth on Cruise, it also bounced back and forth on tickover too once the lambda had warmed up.
Did you take the Lambda wire from the ECU?
My old Autometer AFR used to go to full green on WOT and bounce back and forth on Cruise, it also bounced back and forth on tickover too once the lambda had warmed up.
Did you take the Lambda wire from the ECU?
It's certainly possible your lambda's bust. When I fitted my Autometer, I spent half a day fannying around with it, as I was only getting one led (usually somewhere around the lean end of stoich), and that was flickering and slowwwwwwly moving once every 10-20 seconds, usually in the lean direction. Naturally I thought it was my wiring attempt (
) so stripped everything out and started again. And again... etc.
Anyway, eventually got a new lambda from Mid-West, fitted, started engine, disco time!! So, if any of this sounds familiar, and for the sake of 25 quid, might be worth trying a new one.
Regards,
Ade.
) so stripped everything out and started again. And again... etc.Anyway, eventually got a new lambda from Mid-West, fitted, started engine, disco time!! So, if any of this sounds familiar, and for the sake of 25 quid, might be worth trying a new one.

Regards,
Ade.
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Mid West is a motoring factor in the West Mids (must have taken them ages to come up with the name...
), but probably any similar company would do them. Just use Yell to find similar near you. It's a universal Bosch beastie. I tried Halfords first like most people suggest, but they'd never heard of it!
), but probably any similar company would do them. Just use Yell to find similar near you. It's a universal Bosch beastie. I tried Halfords first like most people suggest, but they'd never heard of it!
cheers judge. got me new one fitted today and it seems a lot better. although, when on idle the lights start at green and slowly decrease downwards then disappear. then come back on a few seconds later at lower end of yellow and then go off, come back on and again go off.
i bought this gauge from an american cxompany who "modify" them to be more exact...think i should ask them???
i bought this gauge from an american cxompany who "modify" them to be more exact...think i should ask them???
Glad you're sorted. You say they modify them? Hmm, strange. I got mine from MJ Designs, which was an off the shelf product. Although what you're describing sounds fairly similar to what I get now. See how you get on with it for a few days. Pay particular attention to how rich it goes under WOT. I'm still not convinced mine's 100% spot on. It's usually around the "R" of Rich, which is about 0.850, and some would say that's not rich enough for 16psi. But my MAF's brand new, as is the lambda, and it was like that before the exhaust and boost mods... 
Regards,
Ade.

Regards,
Ade.
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From: Bournemouth - 5x Ex Impreza owner. 997 GT3 CS.
DRB,
That seems about right.
On cruise it should bounce back and forward. Full boost it should be into the green. At idle it should hovver around a bit, and hang at either rich or lean for a second or two, but generally bounce around.
MB
That seems about right.
On cruise it should bounce back and forward. Full boost it should be into the green. At idle it should hovver around a bit, and hang at either rich or lean for a second or two, but generally bounce around.
MB
The Lambda sensor needs to be up to its proper temperature before it will produce the correct voltages for the fuel mixture going in. It will also give incorrect readings at very high exhaust gas temperature as well.
Les
Les
everythings sounding like it's working fine, apart from idleing. at most on idle, it goes up to the lower set of yellow light(goes up quickly), then disappears(again very quickly) and comes back on pretty much after about 5 seconds. also hovers about the same area too.
goes all the way up m8. considering getting a link ecu which will get rid of me MAF so, we'll see what happens after that with the idleing being rather rough and this problem with the afr.
http://gadgetseller.com/gauges/modifiedproducts.htm
clicky to where to get your "modified" afr gauges
clicky to where to get your "modified" afr gauges
could certainly be a possibility judge. but where on earth did u get the sensor for £25???? i got a price of £100 from subaru!
gonna try and get a lone of someones for two seconds hopefully sometime.
where's "mid west"?
[Edited by drb5 - 11/12/2003 6:43:19 PM]
gonna try and get a lone of someones for two seconds hopefully sometime.where's "mid west"?
[Edited by drb5 - 11/12/2003 6:43:19 PM]
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