PALATINE

Which of these is best
MRT Lamda link

or Dawesdevices AFR meter

Buget is a big factor so these are the only choices unless there is somthing else out there and I'am not confident enough to do a DIY jobby

Cheers

Ira

[Edited by PALATINE - 10/31/2003 8:45:28 AM]

PALATINE

btt

caz1562

I bought the Dawes for my rebuild, will let you know how I get on.

Good value for money in my book and its a lot smaller than the Lambda link too.

greasemonkey

The Dawes is the most useful of the commercial meters. Make sure you get the "Subaru specific" one.

Brown Baron

If you want a few more options try

Gadgetseller

He does standard and modified AFR gauges.

PALATINE

Brown Baron,
Which do you recommend Standard or Modded?

Brown Baron

It depends what you are going to use it for, I just went for a standard autometer AFR, I got one more for peace of mind than for anything else. The modified gauges are set up to show between about 0.78 & 0.98 volts so each LED is 0.01v, this means you won't get the flashing lights at idle & cruise.

PALATINE

I just want to know I'm not running lean or too rich when I fit my HKS AFR

Brown Baron

I would say a standard one would do then, that's basically what mine's for (after fitting a dawes). Saves a couple of quid as well.

PALATINE

What do people make of this?

Dark Blue Mark

I had the Autometer one. Looks smart and quite funky at night!

MB

john banks

But they are all pretty much a waste of time unless you calibrate them with a wideband. A sensible AFR can be 860mV on some lambda sensors and 910mV on others and there is a world of difference. eg a narrowband lambda voltage of 890mV can be a 20% difference between cars in actual AFR which is the difference between being a blow up from getting too hot and being too rich so it is slow.

You can build one for £10 if you can solder and look out my old thread, but I don't run one these days - I have a wideband, and if I didn't have that I wouldn't bother with a narrowband AFR gauge either, would just run a knocklink. If your car is tuned, then if it is running lean it will probably det and the knocklink would give you some warning. You can overgauge your car and not know how to read them all. EGT would arguably be more useful.

Oil temp, boost gauge and knocklink would be my choices - first to tell you when you can boot it, the other two are obvious. Low oil pressure probably just tells you you have blown your engine up or need to strip it anyway?

Dark Blue Mark

Does tell you if your MAF is shagged though John The KL wont pick that up if it starts running rich.

MB

john banks

If it runs rich the AFR would usually be pegged on the top light anyway on most models?

Butty

iTrader: (2)

John,
as an aside, did the DIY knock meter mentioned with the DIY AFR threads come to anything?

Nick
1997 Forester S/tb

DPJef

I've heard Greddy does AFR meters with their own sensor.

john banks

No Nick, buy a knocklink.

Dark Blue Mark

John,

Mine went very odd when the Maf failed, some of the lights faded and it flickered all over the place. Guess that's just as it is failing - as the voltage flies around?

MB