ktomass

Belive me fuel injector cleaner wouldn't cure it

Try camshaft sensor from another car if you can find one. If that still doesn't work... you can try another sensor (MAF first); there are plenty of them! ;-)

K.

[Edited by ktomass - 10/6/2003 8:14:22 PM]

leeps

Hi all

i get a hesitation in 4th and 5th at 4500 rpm, now i know a lot of people have been saying that its the boost solenoid or MAF. I therefore bypassed the boost solenoid with a bleed valve(everything done properly) but the im still getting the hesitation.

Took it to the dealers and they said i had a camshaft error which usually means a knock so they reset the ecu but on the drive towards the end i got it again(hesitation). So the technician says its probably overboosting. I don't understand how this could happen with the boost solenoid bypassed and a bleed valve in place. (This is at 0.8 bar)

Now my friend who was with me says that the camshaft error could indicate something wrong with the timing which could cause this hesitation. It could be that the sensor is loose or something ...

i was just wondering if anybody can give me some advice on this ...

sorry about the long question

leeps

ps my98

RyanB

Not sure if this will help, but I have just had the same problem around 3000/4000 revs it would just JUDDER(and pi55 me off). My problem was the MAF sensor and it cost me 80 squid all in and everything is now peachy .

Good luck!

ktomass

Have you experienced "check engine light"?

If yes, what was error code?

Reg, K.

leeps

i initially had a MAF error code but when i reset the ecu it didn't come back. When i took it to the dealers they said they only picked up a camshaft error indicating knock ... they said that could cause it ??? but still after the reset the car was running better and the test drive seemed fine till it came back, a small hesitation at the end of the run :<

Im gonna try some fuel injector cleaner cos its worth a shot i think :>

leeps

LG John

plugs?

SCOOBY TOWERS

iTrader: (7)

leads ?

Hotpants

Been having a similar problem , when accelerating hard in 4th & 5th. Acceleration seems to 'pulse' it accelerates ,seems to let off slightly ,then pull again & so on. I changed the MAF sensor , still did it ,changed the leads, still did it , took it to a rolling road for a check up & after some umming & arring the subject of fuel cropt up & as I've got a UK Turbo I'm a bit of a cheap **** & have only used 95 octane fuel , so I was advised to change to Optimax or similar & touch wood the problem seems to have stopped. Seemed stupid I know but who knows , this could be the simple solution.Hope it is.

ktomass

I get similar problem also on RON98 or shell Vpower100.

K.

leeps

im in denial :> i know the fuel injector cleaner probably won't work ... neways i just twisted my ankle playing basketball on monday night so now i can't even drive my car lol ...

leeps

leeps

Hi all
So my dealer says they had a similar problem with another car.
Their solution is to bypass the current solenoid. Put in a one port solenoid with a basic non adjustable bleed valve.
They believe its still a problem with the boost control.

I am a bit skeptical cos i am already bypassing the 3 port solenoid with a manual boost controll(GFB atomic) and i highly doubt that thats the problem ??? The did check the car out with the secs monitor and they didn't pick up anything besides the camshaft error which they cleared. ...

any suggestions ?? is this the way to go (ie dealers suggestion)

leeps

PS the fuel injector cleaner did not work :>

ktomass

I don't belive it is boost control problem. There has to be something else... but don't have a clue what!

I'm trying to figure it out myself but until today with no success

We got manual boost controller, which eliminates factor of boost control solenoid. Then checked every ingle sensor for voltage and everything is as it should be.

Today I also changed MAF sensor (part no. 22680 AA160), as Bob Rawle suggested the judder is probably maf related, and still the car judders in 4th and 5th gear. It seems as the ECU is retarding ignition; that would do if you have DET, but i haven't got it!? Before MBC the ECU was limiting the boost up to 0,5bar.

Can't really help you with this one as I'm on the same boat

Reg,
Kristijan
(Legacy 2,0T Estate MY92)

shiper

My uk wagon does it but only when hot or after i have parked up for a while and driven hard after i start up again.
Tried everything and it ended up being heat soak.
Put bigger intercooler on and lagged d pipe and it helped but still get it somtimes when hot.
Could be barking up wrong tree?

RRE

I have simular problem on a 99 GT. I tried to change MAF, did´nt help, then tried solenoid bypass by a Dawes, still did it.

When I reset med ECU the problem disapear for 2-300 km, but then comes back, and I would think that if it was a MAF error it would´nt disapper by a ECU reset. Could it be the camshaft sensor?

leeps

Still got the problem but diffucult to get off work to sort it out.
Oh yeah by the way the fuel injector cleaner does wonders so far. The car is running smoother... of course the hesitation hasn't gone away :<

Going to get a second opinion soon so will see if the camshaft sensor is loose or something cos somebody told me that it has got something to do with the timing ??? so that i guess could cause hesitation ....

i also initialy had that maf error and it also cleared with a ecu reset ???

oh well will see what happens :>

leeps

RRE

What product did you use for the injector cleaning?

leeps

Wynns fuel injector cleaner ... when i bought it it
was in a blue bottle but could be different in your country

leeps

gothinducky

Check your oil isn't overfilled. Your problem sounds just like the one on my MY00 UK car after a service. The oil was just over the max dipstick level. When I took it back, the garage drained the excess oil off and the 'pulsing' boost in 4th/5th went away in a couple of days.

leeps

gothinducky ...

interesting that u replied cos i think i saw ur post in another thread and gonna check that oil thing, hope its something that simple ...

thanks

leeps

will see if that works ...

leeps

I think once i solve this problem im gonna make a book
called "Hesitation for Dummies" lol ....

leeps

ktomass

agree with you and belive me I can help you with that...

Kristijan

RRE

I know for a fact that it's not a oil issue for me. This is the second time I have this hesitation problem. The first time it was the oil and there by oil in the seloid valve. So I changed the hoses and the valve, buy this time it's not. As of now the oil level is correct and I bypass the seloid with a Dawes. I'll try a new MAF one more time.

wiltshire_boy

Coilpacks?

Dav 27

guess what my car seems to do the same, checked hoses etc all ok noticed coil pack rubbers split,but didnt seem to of been shorting out or nowt , i figured its a costly job buying maf sensors,crank sensors etc and chucking them at the car , hoping its going to work . So im just holding out and waiting to see if i come across some info on how to test sensors with a multi meter and finding what the resistances are supose to be , or better still finding a manual for me car with fault dianosis in it, like pple say its veryfrustrating

leeps

u know what i don't understand, is that such a common problem like this (do a search) and subaru and the dealers still seem ignorant about it .. ???

This should be at the end of the user manual under TROUBLE SHOOTING

*sigh*

leeps

wiltshire_boy

There is a PDF document that covers troubleshooting and how to test the coilpacks etc. I'll dig it up and post the link.

Roy.

leeps

thanks roy ...

checking out all the threads i think im gonna clean out all the
pipes and maybe take a look at the dumpvalve as well ... it looks like the problem we are facing is overboosting due to dirt, oil, leakage or something causing the sensors to misread ...

thats cos the maf, lambda, sparks and stuff have been done (and fuel injector cleaner )

thanks roy will want to check out the coils as well

leeps

petrik

Had this same hesitation problem for years in my -92 Turbo Legacy.
The solution for that problem was easy and you may know it already, cause this string is quite old; Buy hefty 10 square mm coil, 30 Amp relay and a fuse box with a 30 A fuse. Connect the wire to the alternator, assemble the fuse box, draw the coil to the trunk, where you assemble the relay below the rear seat. Now connect the relay to the electric fuel pump using that thick wire by cutting the old hair-like fuel pump electric wire and solder the new one. Use that plastic heat-shrinking tube for covering your solderings. Take the steering voltage to the relay from the old cut-off fuel pump wire. Connect the ground to the chassis. Done in about 1 hour. Solution: higher fuel pressure, and sooooo smoooth running and NO HESITATION!
Previously 12,1 volts to the pump, now 14,2. About 0.8 bars more fuel at idle!!! Worked so far in all Finnish Subarus suffering from hesitation and sometimes poor idle.

Again one of the cheap and obvious solutions you never thought of. Like I said it took years for me to discover that and I'm sooo happy now.

Cheers,

Petrik

ktomass

Now that's a thought! But still, it has to run smooth also with standard fuel pressure. We tried to up the fuel pressure and it worked a bit but still we got hesitation and judder with 4,2 bar pressure at idle and 5,2 bar at full boost!

Thanks!

Kristijan

wiltshire_boy

Found the link: Subaru PDF manuals.

If you right click and "save as" (some pretty big files for a dial-up connection mind). Then wade through the DIAGNOSTICS section to page 23 which tells you how to check your coilpacks on a multimeter.

There is a huge range of other information in there, hope it helps.

Thanks for your suggestion Petrik, it reminded me that someone else had mentioned a problem with the fuel pump power supply as well. I think that may also have been a Legacy, so it might just be peculiar to that model. Worth a look though!