Brian the Sn@il

I have a Sti Type R version 5 and running on optimax.

oh dear not enough RON for it though.

Whos the quickest and best to remap for the english optimax ??

Simple question hope a simple answer?

Brian, Events Organiser

events@scoobycity.co.uk

greasemonkey

Any EcuTeK dealer should be able to remap for our fuel. Look on their website for a list of tuners in the UK.

Make sure you either use an octane booster or stay off boost til you've had this job done. Running round on Optimax alone, even for a few days, could sow the seeds for serious damage further down the line.

Also well worth fitting a KnockLink - even after the remap, as this'll give you instant warning if you're unfortunate enough to end up with a bad tank of fuel at some point.


[Edited by greasemonkey - 9/30/2003 8:15:38 PM]

Leviathan

Does it det then? Are you using any O booster?
Has the car any mods, like induction kit or de-cat zorst?
Have you tried replaceing the MAF sensor?
Im looking into either a Tek 2 or Owendevelopments unichip with water injection for mine.
These seem to be the most favoured from what ive heard.

Brian the Sn@il

i really must say thanks for so quick replies.

I had a knock link installed last week

It has a Full Decat exhaust

The Knock link lights alive when burroing the peddle at say 80mph due to detination.

if you increase boost/speed slowly its ok


its a remap isnt it i need ?

sg72

If you just want to run on Optimax.

Most definetly.

If you plan on any Mods.

Get them first . Then Re-map

5 Type R

Lots of options for you as listed.

I run a Unichip mapped by Owen Developments with Water Injection on my 5 Type R.

Very Very Happy with it (310bhp/310lbft (249@wheels)

www.owendevelopments.co.uk

stiscooby

Can fully recommend BR Developments. Very nice/helpful guys and know what their doing!

greasemonkey

You mean you get the big red light as well? If so, you should avoid flooring it until you've done something to correct the issue. Good to hear that you've actually got a KL fitted by the way, many people choose the ignorance is bliss route.

There's more than one way to skin a cat. TBH running octane booster is the best option as this will allow your engine to run on its natural levels of advance, but without the det. Remapping for 97 will cost you a bit of power, but will pay for itself over a period of time.

Mad Gypsy

What sort of cost from Owens for the Unichip remap?
How does it differ to a Link? I currently have 301bhp & 276lbft. (Type R)
I would like to see 310 - 320 in both bhp & lbft.
I want more torque a little lower down.

-rocky-

what sort of octane boosters have you lot found that we seem to have missed previously in the mr2 world? the only ones we could find added three points to the octane rating per can. this if using sul would give 97+0.3 = 97.3 i cant imagine that doing much or have you found something stronger?



rocky

ragnarock2

used to use NF race formula for my Type R - before ECUTEK remap - used to get rid of det - dunno how many points it added, but was the best of all the boosters I tried

Scooby Drew

I used NF race religiously before my remap.

Bob Rawle remapped my car last weekend - WOW!!!!!

The difference is unreal, positive boost @ 2500rpm, pulls all the way to the redline in every gear.

I cannot recommend his work high enough, brings the car alive.

I had my car done at his home in Swindon, but I think he can do it around Richmond.

Brian the Sn@il

the strange thing is, when i picked the car up, it had amazing amount of torque at low end, 3K up to 5K was on or off power, nearly killed myself and a mate in a ASDA car park as the acceleration was un real.

It went like a rocket and i didnt have to rev up,

I took it to My Valet Tuners and after a Rolling road trip with the sensors on i was told it was running rich ?? or something,

So he did a ECU re sett and now all the power has gone.
Straight after the ecu resett it smoked badly for a couple of days but now its fine ???

Any ideas on this one,

Dannyboy the Chairman of Scoobycity said that it may have had a re map on it but was erased after the re sett.

ragnarock2

when i had mine remapped, was told that it couldnt be wiped by an ECU reset (otherwise, when you disconnect the battery for long periods if doing work) it woudl reset the map?!?!? I have an Ecutek - AFAIK this is the only flash remap available?

Have you got a boost gauge and what does it boost to brian???

Brian the Sn@il

i have no toys installed ragnarok, just the knocklink which is more than enough on my dashboard !!!!! the boost is right as Clive tested the boost ill dig the power curve details out in a mo..

Brian the Sn@il

right..
Boost from 2.2K its at 4psi straight up hill at 3.4K rpm it peeks at 16.5 psi then drops slowly to 14.5 psi

ragnarock2

boost sounds about standard (or at least the same as what mine used to be before remap). Although it may be peaking quite late, i am not entirely sure on where the peak boost should come in (as i had mine mapped after a few weeks of owning it)

Dunno why it would feel slower after an ECU reset, did clive run any diagnostics on the car (using the select port or connecting the diag wires?)


[Edited by ragnarock2 - 10/1/2003 8:09:24 PM]

[Edited by ragnarock2 - 10/1/2003 8:17:14 PM]

ragnarock2

what power did you get brian???

Brian the Sn@il

dont tell danny but it peaked at 301 BHP

it had so much more low down power before the resett.

looks like im off to the mappers

WREXY

Hi Brian,

It could be a knackered MAF sensor. What happens is that in some cases the ECU learns to run around the problem of a slightly knackered MAF sensor and all seems well, but when you do a reset, the ECU loses it's memory of what it learned and doesn't run right cos of the knackered MAF. This has happened many times when a car has just been remapped with Ecutek and after the ECU has been reset, the car doesn't run right. It turns out to be a faulty MAF sensor, however it's not noticeable that there's a problem till the reset cos the ECU has learned to run the engine around the problem.

The smoke out the exhaust after the reset also indicates that it's probably the MAF, especially if it was black and probably why the garage found the rich running

Cheers,

George.



[Edited by WREXY - 10/2/2003 12:13:52 AM]

Brian the Sn@il

cheers every one for your input plus wrexy good one mate..

im off to Clives to get this MAF sensor tested and will let you all know.
cheers.

Oh im putting that Silkolene Pro octaine boost in at the moment,

Scooby Drew

I found to get the same performance from Silkolene as NF Race, I had to use a 4x ratio, e.g. 30 litres of Super = 120ml of Silkolene booster
NF Race on the other hand, 30 litres of Super = 30ml of booster

Brian the Sn@il

goodness only 30 ml instead of 120ml thats a saving.
where do you buy it from ?

ragnarock2

Brian, used to get mine from www.scoobyscene.co.uk around £12 per bottle.

I used to add mls of NF asa percentage of the fill up of petrol (i.e. if filling 75% of tank, I would add 75ml; if filling 50% of tank, I would add 50 mls etc etc) I think this will see you clear of det problems relating to octane rating, and will probably give the car a bit more power.

I used to have one of those plastic drinking water bootles (with the stoppa top), and stuck a bit of paper down the side marked in 75ml steps, I would then only fill up when i needed to put 3/4 of petrol in to fill the tank up, before putting petrol in, flip the lid of the bottle up, push end into petrol filler on car, squeeze out 75ml (easy using the markers on the side of the bottle), then fill up with the petrol!

Did get quite a few rich looks from people though!!!

S.B.

NF Race Nuff Said...

Brian the Sn@il

cheerrs all i sent them a email as you cant buy on line

Brian the Sn@il

cheers wrexy, had clive check her and the MAF is running fine, its the newer modded one with 3 pins or something ?