AE802 swap for a AE801 on a MY00
03 September 2003, 03:45 PM
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Going to swap out the AE802ECU for a AE801, is it a simple swap, or are there any issues that i have to consider or do before/after i swap. Thanks in advance for any help.
05 September 2003, 12:32 PM
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Charlie Boy, there is an argument for sticking with AE802 because it runs richer fuelling and takes more boost before it dets, also it is better at retarding with detonation as it has a functional low octane ignition map. So for people using a manual boost controller the AE802 could be a bit better and/or safer.
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05 September 2003, 03:30 PM
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I ahev no fancy gadgets in my car for controlling boost, i only know how to start and drive the thing. Does that mean i should stick to the AE802 then?
05 September 2003, 03:45 PM
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Put the 801 in, you'll notice the difference instantly, I did 
However as John says if you ever consider using a manual boost controller (Dawes) swap back to the 802 as it runs even richer at the top end to prevent detonation.
Ultimatly if you are going to do further mods (de-cat, air filter, etc.) you could have a TEK2 or 3 remap done on the 802 and sell on the 801. (May as well have the 802 mapped and the 801 commands greater second hand prices)
As for swapping it over, remove the metal kickplate under the carpet in the passenger footwell, being careful not to slice your fingers open on the sharp plate (speaking from experience here). Ensure the ignition is completely off, unplug the 802, plug in 801, screw it all back together and away you go. No need to disconnect the battery.
Enjoy
However as John says if you ever consider using a manual boost controller (Dawes) swap back to the 802 as it runs even richer at the top end to prevent detonation.Ultimatly if you are going to do further mods (de-cat, air filter, etc.) you could have a TEK2 or 3 remap done on the 802 and sell on the 801. (May as well have the 802 mapped and the 801 commands greater second hand prices)
As for swapping it over, remove the metal kickplate under the carpet in the passenger footwell, being careful not to slice your fingers open on the sharp plate (speaking from experience here). Ensure the ignition is completely off, unplug the 802, plug in 801, screw it all back together and away you go. No need to disconnect the battery.
Enjoy
05 September 2003, 10:24 PM
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On driving 800/801 and 802 I can't tell hardly any difference. Admittedly they were in different cars not swapping in the same one - but both standard. Given that 802 is safer, I wouldn't bother. Personally think this is a case of the Emperor's new clothes, this one. Try and get a TEk2 remap of you 802 or the PPP replacement ECU and you will get a smallish but noticably real improvement especially the torque. I have yet to experience a really bad hesitnt MY00 but I could be lucky - sounds like there are a few around. Also detting doesn't just apply to mods - **** fuel, weather etc are all factors.
08 September 2003, 02:02 PM
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Here's some info from EcuTek on the subject:
http://www.ecutek.com/tuning/oemcompare/
The most interesting thing (for me) here is the boost achieve map - shows how the 802 is more progressive over the rev range compared to the 801. I'd imagine this is why a car on an 801 feels quicker.
The fuelling map demonstrates John's point about the fuelling at high RPM quite clearly.
Not sure what to do now, myself! Do I bother getting an 800/801?Could just get a Dawes and stick with the 802 I suppose... and get a KnockLink!
http://www.ecutek.com/tuning/oemcompare/
The most interesting thing (for me) here is the boost achieve map - shows how the 802 is more progressive over the rev range compared to the 801. I'd imagine this is why a car on an 801 feels quicker.
The fuelling map demonstrates John's point about the fuelling at high RPM quite clearly.
Not sure what to do now, myself! Do I bother getting an 800/801?Could just get a Dawes and stick with the 802 I suppose... and get a KnockLink!
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