After Blowing TWO previous engines through using Normal Un-Leaded in my 1999 Jap WRX, I've only ever used Optimax on my 3rd Engine...

I finally received My Knocklink and fitted it over the weekend. (Thanks to MONEY for organising the Group Buy )

It works great through most of the rev range, giving an occasional green light....

...However at 5500revs it lights them all - Argh!!

By 6000revs its back to 1 green light, with an occasional amber right near the 7500 redline.

So I re-fueled with Optimax, and added an bottle of Millers Octane Booster....
.......... Exactly the same, and to be honest the booster doesn't seem to make the car run any different.

What can I do???????

 

some could be transient det. How long do all lights stay on for?
What year is your scoob, maybe a remap may be needed just to make sure!
Should have read the post properly!!!

Go for an ecutek re-map from brd/pe/ss/john banks, they will fairly quickly sort that out!

[Edited by ragnarock2 - 8/26/2003 9:58:08 AM]

 

"Go for an ecutek re-map from brd/pe/ss/john banks, they will fairly quickly sort that out!"

Whats likely cost?

Anyone got contact details for brd/pe/ss/john banks ?

 

Got a similar problem, just posted it up in Drivetrain. Mine seems to run fine 99% of the time though and very occasionally lights the lot up.

Does yours do it every time at 5.5k?

Cheers

Andy

 

Just read John Banks is not doing it any more! IIRC basic cost is £695. Got my STi 5 Type R mapped by pat (who does scoobysport maps) to run on sul/optimax without booster, made the car feel a lot quicker too (plus will save the money by not using booster at every fill up) Also, the Knock link never goes above 2 green lights now!
www.scoobysport.co.uk
www.brdevelopments.com
www.powerengineering.co.uk

 

get your car on Delta-Dash and see what's going on. It may be you need to get your MAF checked.

 

try sum NF octane bootser

normal unleaded on a jap wrx :s

 

To mitigate the cost of TEK3 (£650+vat) you could always do what i did & arrange a group buy, quite a good reduction if you can get enough peeps to go for it

 

kwakman, Its not everytime at 5.5k but most.
Mainly if accelerating quickly.
It has always felt like there is a flat spot around here...

One other thing I've been paranoid since I got this 3rd engine, but I've started to notice that I don't seem to have any power from the engine, until turbo comes in at around 3500-4000.
It feels a bit 'LUMPY' as though perhap mis-firing, but no lights at all on knock link, then once turbo comes in very smooth though the rest of the rev range, apart from the 5.5K flat spot (feels like it misses a beat).

Which is the exact symptons I got before the crank bent & piston 3 melted, on engine No. 1

Has Det already caused damage?

& will a re-map solve this 'LUMPY' low revs Too?

OR Am I going to have to get engine No.4 then a Re-MAP?????

 

I would advice you to have someone look at your MAF sensor as hinted above.

Worst case it will cost you 70 odd quid for a new one and a non-blown engine.

When the Knocklink lights up like that, it *is* to be taken serious.

A remap for 97 Oct fuel would also be advisable.

 

millers is crap, use nf. dingy off here will be able to sort you all you could ever want. my mate runs his race pinto at 40 degrees ignition on its 13:1 c/r and its det free try that with millers lol

matt

 

Strange that it is intermittent. Mine is very occasional but still happens. Its as if the ECU can find itself in a state where it loses the plot. Have you blown all ur engines on the same ECU?

At least you know there is a problem now and can sort it altho remaps seem farkin expensive (or quite cheap if you can afford an engine every 5 mins!).

Looks like knocklinks should be compulsory on all imports. SCary stuff. I wonder how many other greys are lighting up?

 

try WINNS oct booster its exellent millers did nothing for mine but the winns solved the prob staight away...chris

 

Whats DELTA-DASH ?

Over the last few days the lights are only lighting for a split second very occasionally, & at different rev ranges above the 5.5k
(running on optimax only for last 2 tanks)

However its now running very 'LUMPY' below the 4000 revs, definately feels as though its missing.

where is the MAF & How can I test it?

Also could this be a fueling problem (ie fuel pump not giving enough fuel, blocked injectors) ?

 

Interesting that you note the noise at 5500RPM, my UK MY98 does the same thing, having listened to the 'noise' and recorded it on my laptop for subsequent analysis I came to the conclusion that the noise wasn't det after all but something else, it only occurs in 2nd and 3rd gears in my car and even pulling 5 degrees of timing wouldn't get rid of the 'noise' spike completely.

I am in no way trying to say that your noise is not det, but remember that the Knocklink is indicating noise over a very wide frequency range it is not just detecting knock.

Andrew...

[Edited to say that mine only lit both ambers not red aswell]


[Edited by AndrewC - 8/29/2003 11:43:20 AM]

 

just thought to put u out ur misery :>
Delta dash is a software program that reads off ur
ecu... can give u error codes, reset ecu blah blah

leeps

ps before u remap its a good idea to know what the problem is anyway so take the time to find out first ...

 

AndrewC,
Now you have mentioned noise rather than Det, I've listened carefully, and it dose soud more like a chain rattle, or the noise your exhaust heat sheild makes when it starts to corrode, thou it sounds to be comming from inside the engine.
Obviously I dont want to hear it too often, just incase it is DET.

Though it seems I may have another problem anyway, so I am going to see if my mate will swap me his MAF this weekend, to eliminate that.

 

You need to get someone who knows what they're looking for to listen using det cans before assuming that it's just engine noise.

Andrew...