Remapping a MY99 STI Type-R?
16 July 2003, 05:56 PM
#1
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Can someone tell my options ref remapping my Type-R. I want a remap to make it safer for the engine to use british fuels, I am not interested at all in power increases.
I am assuming that the standard ECU cannot be remapped, is this right?
Are there other options instead of buying a new ECU, such as piggyback units, etc?
What would the cheapest ECU be? (for safety, not power)
Cheers,
Craig.
16 July 2003, 06:40 PM
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The standard ECU can be remapped. If all you're interested in is safe running on UK fuel this is by far the best option, a GEMS or any other form of programmable ECU would be overkill.
There are a number of people offering ECUTek remapping around now - do a quick search!
There are a number of people offering ECUTek remapping around now - do a quick search!
16 July 2003, 06:42 PM
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Thanks for the replys, fellas.
Any other input still appreciated.
Craig.
Leviathan,
Is Steve Simpson local in the South West area?
[Edited by CRAIGFIN - 7/16/2003 6:46:03 PM]
Any other input still appreciated.
Craig.
Leviathan,
Is Steve Simpson local in the South West area?
[Edited by CRAIGFIN - 7/16/2003 6:46:03 PM]
16 July 2003, 07:07 PM
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He will come down here to us m8,
brings his laptop, ecu, ect ect and maps it 'on the road'
The system can be 'switched' between say, optimax, or for an emergency situation, SUL.
It also achieves huge torque figures not bull**** hp figures.
I had a chat with him about mine a couple of weeks back, very helpfull bloke.
I to am after the safety more than anything else.
It maybe slightly overkill but its certainly quality and can obviously be mapped to as mild or wild (within reason obviously) as you like.
brings his laptop, ecu, ect ect and maps it 'on the road'
The system can be 'switched' between say, optimax, or for an emergency situation, SUL.
It also achieves huge torque figures not bull**** hp figures.
I had a chat with him about mine a couple of weeks back, very helpfull bloke.
I to am after the safety more than anything else.
It maybe slightly overkill but its certainly quality and can obviously be mapped to as mild or wild (within reason obviously) as you like.
16 July 2003, 07:37 PM
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AAAAAAAAAH
That is the only down side,
How does fifteen hundred quid sound!
I know, it sounded dear to me but i think personally il go down this route. What i like about it, is that he can come to you, as you know we have bugger all down hear and you have to travel hundreds of miles which scares the **** outa me, in a std unmapped JDM car.
Secondly, the GEMS system is very highly rated.
If i lived near Swindon, i would probebly use BRD but i dont, anyway i think the price for a LINK job is roughly the same and pluss the fact your looking at 100 quid in juice to get there & back.
Its swings & roundabouts.
BTW, i also asked him about mods before map' and risking det, boost spikes ect from de-cats and filters.
He then whent on to say that the best thing to do was to get all your parts together, maybe exhaust ect and fit them a day or to before he comes to do the remapp.
The system also does away with the poxy maff sensor, same as the LINK does.
That is the only down side,
How does fifteen hundred quid sound!
I know, it sounded dear to me but i think personally il go down this route. What i like about it, is that he can come to you, as you know we have bugger all down hear and you have to travel hundreds of miles which scares the **** outa me, in a std unmapped JDM car.
Secondly, the GEMS system is very highly rated.
If i lived near Swindon, i would probebly use BRD but i dont, anyway i think the price for a LINK job is roughly the same and pluss the fact your looking at 100 quid in juice to get there & back.
Its swings & roundabouts.
BTW, i also asked him about mods before map' and risking det, boost spikes ect from de-cats and filters.
He then whent on to say that the best thing to do was to get all your parts together, maybe exhaust ect and fit them a day or to before he comes to do the remapp.
The system also does away with the poxy maff sensor, same as the LINK does.
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16 July 2003, 07:47 PM
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16 July 2003, 07:49 PM
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Gedi, does it do the same thing then?
Im abit in the dark with ecutek.
Am i right in saying that its a totaly differant manufacturer than Tek 1, Tek 2 ect. confooooosed! they sound the same!
Who does Ecutek?
Im abit in the dark with ecutek.
Am i right in saying that its a totaly differant manufacturer than Tek 1, Tek 2 ect. confooooosed! they sound the same!
Who does Ecutek?
16 July 2003, 08:16 PM
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Leviathan,
By postal maps, do you mean you swap your ECU for an already remapped ECU or do you send yours off to be remapped?
Is it risky because you don't know what you are getting back?
Craig.
By postal maps, do you mean you swap your ECU for an already remapped ECU or do you send yours off to be remapped?
Is it risky because you don't know what you are getting back?
Craig.
16 July 2003, 08:28 PM
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Cant remember now Craig, i think John surcharges you until you can post your ecu back, which maybe he keeps for the next customer.
STI's are risky for postal mapps because there is just no room for error in the setting up, they have to be done spot on AND on the car.
With any luck, he may clarify at some point.
STI's are risky for postal mapps because there is just no room for error in the setting up, they have to be done spot on AND on the car.
With any luck, he may clarify at some point.
16 July 2003, 08:43 PM
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By a postal map I would mean that I send you an ECU through the post with a new map on it which you fit to your car, check with boost gauge and knocklink and then return your original to me. It is a simple exchange, and I don't charge a deposit for the ECU as everyone has returned theirs to me so far, eventually 
However, for the STi I would recommend a map based on a P1 which makes the ECU listen for knock harder. I would add fuel to fill in a lean spot coming onto boost. Then I write new areas of the map for ignition timing that the extra boost will require, these are also tailor made to UK fuel. I also tidy up any areas that are near to the edge at medium boost. I leave the other bits of the map that are fine well alone as they are usually fine. The end result is a map which has a safety margin on UK fuel and runs more torque and power. However, compared to a UK car, the ECU as standard is so much nearer to or over the edge of safety on UK fuel in some cases, that the mapping needs to be customised to the individual car. So I've not developed a one size fits all decatted STi5/6/P1 as I don't think it would be safe.
I did think it would be nice to offer a postal map to use P1 knock sensitivity and filling in the lean spot and making the timing safer, but leaving the boost as it is, but I think this would probably lose you about 10 lbft and 10 BHP from the standard car.
However, for the STi I would recommend a map based on a P1 which makes the ECU listen for knock harder. I would add fuel to fill in a lean spot coming onto boost. Then I write new areas of the map for ignition timing that the extra boost will require, these are also tailor made to UK fuel. I also tidy up any areas that are near to the edge at medium boost. I leave the other bits of the map that are fine well alone as they are usually fine. The end result is a map which has a safety margin on UK fuel and runs more torque and power. However, compared to a UK car, the ECU as standard is so much nearer to or over the edge of safety on UK fuel in some cases, that the mapping needs to be customised to the individual car. So I've not developed a one size fits all decatted STi5/6/P1 as I don't think it would be safe.
I did think it would be nice to offer a postal map to use P1 knock sensitivity and filling in the lean spot and making the timing safer, but leaving the boost as it is, but I think this would probably lose you about 10 lbft and 10 BHP from the standard car.
16 July 2003, 08:43 PM
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*edited, cos John beat me to it with a better explanation 
*
Go for it. It will transform the car and put the smile on back on your face that was there the first time you drove it.
[Edited by Gedi - 7/16/2003 8:45:35 PM]
*Go for it. It will transform the car and put the smile on back on your face that was there the first time you drove it.
[Edited by Gedi - 7/16/2003 8:45:35 PM]
16 July 2003, 08:49 PM
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If all you want to do is make your car safer, then fit a knocklink and boost gauge (which you would need anyway with a remap), then run Optimax and NF octane booster. Alternatively you could fit water injection or an improved intercooler (front mount) and run Optimax. Another option is to buy Delta Dash or get access to a Select Monitor and globally adjust the ignition timing down in 1 degree increments to get rid of any traces of det. This setting is retained until ECU reset or battery disconnection. You could also buy a P1 ECU second hand which would help also. Lots of things you can do to make it safer. You could even fit an HKS AFR and boost the MAF voltage globally. This would richen and retard the timing slightly. A small adjustment could make it run safely on UK fuel without additives, again with a slight loss of power, but you might not notice too much.
16 July 2003, 08:55 PM
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I mean across the whole RPM and load range... in all operating situations. Closed loop lambda control would bring it all fine for cruise. On open loop when there is a risk of detonation, the ECU would be thinking there was slightly more air going into the engine than reality. As a result it would overfuel and retard the ignition a bit, making it less likely to detonate.
16 July 2003, 08:59 PM
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HKS AFR (AIR FUEL RATIO) MODULE
The HKS AFR is a simple fuel adjusting device that adjusts the air/fuel ratio by changing the airflow voltage output to the vehicles factory stock computer. The AFR was designed for vehicles that are lightly tuned (air cleaner, exhaust system etc.) and that need only slight fuel adjustment. The 10 setting adjustment indicator allows the user to richen or lean the stock settings by approximately 1.0A/R point in either direction. Each notch on the adjustment indicator will alter the A/R by approximately .2 of an A/R point. Both lean and rich side have five notches. The HKS AFR is ideal for cars which have been lightly modified such as those with exhaust and induction modifications.
£95
Info from TDI, picture from GGR.
The HKS AFR is a simple fuel adjusting device that adjusts the air/fuel ratio by changing the airflow voltage output to the vehicles factory stock computer. The AFR was designed for vehicles that are lightly tuned (air cleaner, exhaust system etc.) and that need only slight fuel adjustment. The 10 setting adjustment indicator allows the user to richen or lean the stock settings by approximately 1.0A/R point in either direction. Each notch on the adjustment indicator will alter the A/R by approximately .2 of an A/R point. Both lean and rich side have five notches. The HKS AFR is ideal for cars which have been lightly modified such as those with exhaust and induction modifications.
£95
Info from TDI, picture from GGR.
