what is 1 bar in psi?
#4
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just wondering because a freind is runing 28psi peak ,droping to 25psi on what we think is standard internals but with larger turbo ,tubular manifold ,un known ecu and cat back exhaust and blitz filter.
Is this causing damage , any help would be appreciated?
Is this causing damage , any help would be appreciated?
#7
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that's a shed load of boost.
get the car checked out with some det cans or knocklink, and an AFR gauge.
if it's not detting, and the fuelling is good, that's a very good start.
However, are you sure you're not reading absolute boost? 1 bar gauge pressure is usually 1 bar above atmospheric, which is just over a bar itself (annoyingly). So roughly, 1 bar gauge is 2 bar absolute. But I believe you when you say 28psi.
If you can't get the car checked out, at least have a look at the spark plug electrodes and check for signs of pitting, melting and cracking of the electrode itseld and insulator. They should also be a nice tan brown to reddy brown colour, any white, silver or grey deposits is bad news.
Std internals are on borrowed time at such very high peak boost, a little lower appears to just about be okay, something like 22-24psi.
Also, are you sure it's just a cat back exhaust? By that i mean you have the factory downpipe with large cat in it?
Paul
get the car checked out with some det cans or knocklink, and an AFR gauge.
if it's not detting, and the fuelling is good, that's a very good start.
However, are you sure you're not reading absolute boost? 1 bar gauge pressure is usually 1 bar above atmospheric, which is just over a bar itself (annoyingly). So roughly, 1 bar gauge is 2 bar absolute. But I believe you when you say 28psi.
If you can't get the car checked out, at least have a look at the spark plug electrodes and check for signs of pitting, melting and cracking of the electrode itseld and insulator. They should also be a nice tan brown to reddy brown colour, any white, silver or grey deposits is bad news.
Std internals are on borrowed time at such very high peak boost, a little lower appears to just about be okay, something like 22-24psi.
Also, are you sure it's just a cat back exhaust? By that i mean you have the factory downpipe with large cat in it?
Paul
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#9
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You don't run such high boost and expect it to hold together by accident on standard internals. If not set up meticulously and monitored and treated with great care expect it to blow up and budget for the same. Even if you do all this, it may well still blow up and this should IMHO be planned for at this level, although you might have fun whilst it lasts.
If not setup properly it will be slow for the boost used and almost certainly blow up soon.
The car needs to be gone over with a fine toothed comb to see exactly what has been done. If done properly there should be an array of gauges in the cabin to tell you useful info IMHO.
If not setup properly it will be slow for the boost used and almost certainly blow up soon.
The car needs to be gone over with a fine toothed comb to see exactly what has been done. If done properly there should be an array of gauges in the cabin to tell you useful info IMHO.
#11
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i would get the boost turned down to a bar or so until you can get it either mapped or confirmed as being at least "quite" safe, then proceed from their with a known starting point.
where in the country is you friend?
paul
where in the country is you friend?
paul
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surely if it has been running fine ? the unknown ecu may be have been reprogrammed to cater for the extra boost etc.
unfortunality, that is the price you pay when purchasing from an auction, and not private - you dont usually find out what has been done to it - as far as we all know, it could have modified internals, but without taking it apart we will not know.
I would say leave the car as it is, but drive it off boost. Purchase a knocklink and install, and then run the car properly, and see if the engine is knocking.
May also be good to install a sep boost gauge to confirm the reading you are seeing.
Do you have any pictures of the turbo/engine setup/ecu etc? someone might also know more after looking.
unfortunality, that is the price you pay when purchasing from an auction, and not private - you dont usually find out what has been done to it - as far as we all know, it could have modified internals, but without taking it apart we will not know.
I would say leave the car as it is, but drive it off boost. Purchase a knocklink and install, and then run the car properly, and see if the engine is knocking.
May also be good to install a sep boost gauge to confirm the reading you are seeing.
Do you have any pictures of the turbo/engine setup/ecu etc? someone might also know more after looking.
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![Exclamation](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon4.gif)
I think I know this car!!
And I think I mentioned to the owner to get the car checked out!!! ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
The car has a large-ish IHI VF turbo on it, but I couldn't make out the markings on it.
It's also running a Blitz Nur-Spec exhaust (centre and back) with Blitz filter and dump valve.
It looks like the standard cat is in place and equal length headers have been fitted.
There is a fuel computer in the cabin, but I assume all the tricks are done via the ECU.
There is also a switch in the cabin to switch between high and low boost.
On (holding 11psi) low boost, there is nothing of the ordinary (bearing in mind the mods that have been carried out) but on high boost (holding 25/26psi) it sounds like an engine killer!!![EEK!](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Personally, I think this car would make a good project, but I personally would rip out the fuel computer, the downpipe and the ecu.
Then replace them with a 3" open neck downpipe and an ECU that can be mapped in this country (Link, Motec, etc)!!
![EEK!](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
The car has a large-ish IHI VF turbo on it, but I couldn't make out the markings on it.
It's also running a Blitz Nur-Spec exhaust (centre and back) with Blitz filter and dump valve.
It looks like the standard cat is in place and equal length headers have been fitted.
There is a fuel computer in the cabin, but I assume all the tricks are done via the ECU.
There is also a switch in the cabin to switch between high and low boost.
On (holding 11psi) low boost, there is nothing of the ordinary (bearing in mind the mods that have been carried out) but on high boost (holding 25/26psi) it sounds like an engine killer!!
![EEK!](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Personally, I think this car would make a good project, but I personally would rip out the fuel computer, the downpipe and the ecu.
Then replace them with a 3" open neck downpipe and an ECU that can be mapped in this country (Link, Motec, etc)!!
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