Help - replacing crankshaft pulley!
#1
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Getting new crankshaft pulley & woodruff key and need some help fitting. I've taken the timing belt covers off to see how I can replace the woodruff key. Seems I need to remove the main timing gear to do this.I know I've got to mark all the timing positions before removing the belt but...
1) How do I untension the timing belt enough?
2) How do I remove the crankshaft timing gear
3) Any thing I should be careful of?
Cheers,
Andy
1) How do I untension the timing belt enough?
2) How do I remove the crankshaft timing gear
3) Any thing I should be careful of?
Cheers,
Andy
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not a task I would undertake if you're not mechanically minded.
good luck to you mate.
IMO not wise for me to give advise on this.
can be catastrophic if you get it wrong.
Andy
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Cheers Andy - good advice I know, but I've got this far and wan to finish the job. I've got the workshop manuals and the explaination seems fairly straightforwards, but it's always best to hear from people who have done it themselves.
Anyone with advise for taking timing-belts off?
Andy
Anyone with advise for taking timing-belts off?
Andy
#4
its a teriable job mate to holld the cam shafts in place on the right side of the engine i replaced my two lower cambelt idlers and hydraulic tensioner on a my 95 yesterday if you dont have any skills in auto engineering you will inevitably cause 100s of pounds of damage be very careful
not for the feint hearted lol
not for the feint hearted lol
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Am I being a bit naive to think I can do this myself? So far I've done the following:-
1) I've got the crank pulley and the timing belt covers off.
2) I've rotated the crank so all the pulleys line up will their respective marks (and emarked them)
3) I've marked the pulley and timing belt positions (twice!)
My intention was to remove the tensioner pulley, try and keep everything indexed, slip off the crank sprocket, replace the key and replace the sprocket at the same marked position.
Surely even if I can't keep the belt on, if everything is lined up and indexed I can't go wrong - or have I missed something?
Cheers,
Andy
1) I've got the crank pulley and the timing belt covers off.
2) I've rotated the crank so all the pulleys line up will their respective marks (and emarked them)
3) I've marked the pulley and timing belt positions (twice!)
My intention was to remove the tensioner pulley, try and keep everything indexed, slip off the crank sprocket, replace the key and replace the sprocket at the same marked position.
Surely even if I can't keep the belt on, if everything is lined up and indexed I can't go wrong - or have I missed something?
Cheers,
Andy
#7
remove the tensioner pulley and tensioner completely mate you need to gently squeeze the tensioner in a vice and hold it with the retaining pin to put it back in and retention the belt but otherwise yeah they are pretty simple the belts might need an extra pair of hands to hold the belt nicely on all the gears to reduce risk of slipping a few teeth !! goodluck
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jbruton - Workshop manual doesn't mention pinching the tensioner pulley to remove, but I'll take your word for it! Thanks for the inside info.
easyrider - crankshaft pulley bolt came loose and then rounded bore of pulley and bent woodruf key. Replacing crankshaft pulley is easy, but the woodruf key is shared with the crank timing sprocket. So the crankshaft timing sprocket needs to be slipped off in order to replace the woodruf key. Not easy!
Andy
easyrider - crankshaft pulley bolt came loose and then rounded bore of pulley and bent woodruf key. Replacing crankshaft pulley is easy, but the woodruf key is shared with the crank timing sprocket. So the crankshaft timing sprocket needs to be slipped off in order to replace the woodruf key. Not easy!
Andy
#10
scrappydog the tensioner only needs to be squashed in a vice to put it back in not remove it, but remember what ever way the tensioner works is the way it should be squashed don't squash a vertical tensioner in a vice use a press and do it slowly.
and i would take the belt right off i've done a few where the pulley has come loose and it mangels the end of the crank usally needing a new crank and the toothed gear won't slide over the mangeled bit like it should and i've had to get pullers and everything in there. right bugger of a job
and i would take the belt right off i've done a few where the pulley has come loose and it mangels the end of the crank usally needing a new crank and the toothed gear won't slide over the mangeled bit like it should and i've had to get pullers and everything in there. right bugger of a job
#11
scrappydog the tensioner only needs to be squashed in a vice to put it back in not remove it, but remember what ever way the tensioner works is the way it should be squashed don't squash a vertical tensioner in a vice use a press and do it slowly.
and i would take the belt right off i've done a few where the pulley has come loose and it mangels the end of the crank usally needing a new crank and the toothed gear won't slide over the mangeled bit like it should and i've had to get pullers and everything in there. right bugger of a job
[Edited by scoobyboy - 1/19/2003 11:39:32 PM]
and i would take the belt right off i've done a few where the pulley has come loose and it mangels the end of the crank usally needing a new crank and the toothed gear won't slide over the mangeled bit like it should and i've had to get pullers and everything in there. right bugger of a job
[Edited by scoobyboy - 1/19/2003 11:39:32 PM]
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Graham - YHM.
ScoobyBoy - thanks for the info. I'm gonna wait until this weekend when I've got the bits before I attempt it. Judging by your comments, I spare pair of hand will be handy to have around when doing this!
Will keep you all posted on my progress (or lack of)
Cheers,
Andy
ScoobyBoy - thanks for the info. I'm gonna wait until this weekend when I've got the bits before I attempt it. Judging by your comments, I spare pair of hand will be handy to have around when doing this!
Will keep you all posted on my progress (or lack of)
Cheers,
Andy
#13
Andy
I've just changed my timing belt on a MY99 turbo. Pretty straight forward just be careful when the belt comes off that none of the cams fly around on their own (the right hand side of mine were under tension). Jam a sliver of wood or rubber between the cam wheels to prevent them from turning (before you take the belt off). Also remember if you are using the old timing belt to mark it as well as the wheels. Mark the direction as well i.e. arrow to the right as you look into the engine bay.
Best of luck and I had an extra pair of hands to help
Pat
I've just changed my timing belt on a MY99 turbo. Pretty straight forward just be careful when the belt comes off that none of the cams fly around on their own (the right hand side of mine were under tension). Jam a sliver of wood or rubber between the cam wheels to prevent them from turning (before you take the belt off). Also remember if you are using the old timing belt to mark it as well as the wheels. Mark the direction as well i.e. arrow to the right as you look into the engine bay.
Best of luck and I had an extra pair of hands to help
Pat
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Pat,
<<am a sliver of wood or rubber between the cam wheel to prevent them from turning (before you take the belt off). >>
nice one - I'll remember to do that.
If I'm going to the hassle of taking the belt off; should I replace it with a new one? Car is on 75K miles and belt was last changed at 45K.
Any tips for putting belt back on?
Cheers,
Andy
<<am a sliver of wood or rubber between the cam wheel to prevent them from turning (before you take the belt off). >>
nice one - I'll remember to do that.
If I'm going to the hassle of taking the belt off; should I replace it with a new one? Car is on 75K miles and belt was last changed at 45K.
Any tips for putting belt back on?
Cheers,
Andy
#15
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Just replaced the timing belt recently, I would highly recommend that you have someone help you, not due to your experience, more for making life a lot easier. Also watchout with those older hydrolic tensioners as you can **** them up by pushing them in to far when trying to get the pin back in, so go canny.
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