type r coupe
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Scooby Regular
Joined: Jan 2002
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I am looking for some advice, I am thinking about buying 98R sti type R coupe, it is in mint condition (black) with 43k miles and has service history, however I am a little concerned about the fact that the garage that is selling it is rebuilding the engine because there was wear on one of the pistons, (they are cosworth pistons) thet tell me that this was because the gasket was blown,
There is a host of other goodies being put on the engine whilst it is out of the car including a grp n oil pump. The garage tells me once it has been run in and set up it should be good for 370bhp.
My queries are:-
Can you replace just one piston without it doing the engine some damage?
Are cosworth pistons better than the standard sti ones?
And is 370bhp realistic?
Any thoughts or advice would be gratefully recieved.
Oh and they are wanting £14,995 for it, is this about right.
Cheers,
Sandy
There is a host of other goodies being put on the engine whilst it is out of the car including a grp n oil pump. The garage tells me once it has been run in and set up it should be good for 370bhp.
My queries are:-
Can you replace just one piston without it doing the engine some damage?
Are cosworth pistons better than the standard sti ones?
And is 370bhp realistic?
Any thoughts or advice would be gratefully recieved.
Oh and they are wanting £14,995 for it, is this about right.
Cheers,
Sandy
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Joined: Mar 2002
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You can get 370bhp out of a scoob without a prob as long as you have the necessary parts.
Cosworth pistons are good but from my experience the do slap a bit untill warm though they can hack the power-torque.
The most important internal parts are the con-rods which many people will agree are the weakest link and can snap very easilly. If they are std items i wouldnt want to push more than 340bhp and 320lb ft without them snapping. If they are uprated arrow or omething along those lines with uprated bearings and maybe a good crank then you have a short block that can produce the power. In addition to this you will need bigger injectors 550cc or above, induction kit, exhaust system, decat pipe and a good turbo. That is a rough starting base of the short block. You also may wish to do some headwork, porting etc etc and then comes the big one ECU. Some members on the board have re-mapped the std ecu which can control the engine pushing so much power but its at its limits. Your best bet is to go for a LINK ecu which will also get wrid of the MAF sensor. The list can go on and on. If you can get the full spec of the engine and what was done to it then you have no probs so you will know what you need. Make sure the rebuild has been done by a propper garage as i have heard of horror stories.
Regarding the price, it sounds like its over priced due to the work that has been done. MY98 is probably STI 4 which had a good engine. With that kind of money you can pick up an STI 5 Type r or maybe an STI 6 if you are lucky enough and hunt around. Service history is paramount as well and ask why the engine was rebuilt. Did it blow or is it a project that ran out of money. If it was blown maybe it was due to harsh driving so you should think about the gearbox which isnt so grat on the scoobs.
Anymore advice please email me directly.
Regards
Gez
Cosworth pistons are good but from my experience the do slap a bit untill warm though they can hack the power-torque.
The most important internal parts are the con-rods which many people will agree are the weakest link and can snap very easilly. If they are std items i wouldnt want to push more than 340bhp and 320lb ft without them snapping. If they are uprated arrow or omething along those lines with uprated bearings and maybe a good crank then you have a short block that can produce the power. In addition to this you will need bigger injectors 550cc or above, induction kit, exhaust system, decat pipe and a good turbo. That is a rough starting base of the short block. You also may wish to do some headwork, porting etc etc and then comes the big one ECU. Some members on the board have re-mapped the std ecu which can control the engine pushing so much power but its at its limits. Your best bet is to go for a LINK ecu which will also get wrid of the MAF sensor. The list can go on and on. If you can get the full spec of the engine and what was done to it then you have no probs so you will know what you need. Make sure the rebuild has been done by a propper garage as i have heard of horror stories.
Regarding the price, it sounds like its over priced due to the work that has been done. MY98 is probably STI 4 which had a good engine. With that kind of money you can pick up an STI 5 Type r or maybe an STI 6 if you are lucky enough and hunt around. Service history is paramount as well and ask why the engine was rebuilt. Did it blow or is it a project that ran out of money. If it was blown maybe it was due to harsh driving so you should think about the gearbox which isnt so grat on the scoobs.
Anymore advice please email me directly.
Regards
Gez
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i have a type r 98 as well. All i can say to the quoted bhp figures are quite a salesman's quote!
there's no chance whatsover for you to run safely, i repeat! SAFELY to reach 370bhp. Not convinced? just go check out threads from heavy modders such as David Wallis, Rich Wild etc and you'll see that with extensive mods and other safety mods to preserve the engine, they are only running at approx 350ish whixh will be blistering quick.
my friend has a 2.2 stroker kit with antilag and he is running only at 1.3bar giving out 360bhp. so normal type r even with cossie pistons will not last long on that quoted power figure.
do check out the safety mods present on the car such as FMIC, oil cooler, uprated fuel pumps, gaskets, etc.
problem with my type r was it has blown 4 times due to fried pistons and i'm running std everything. so please beware or bring soemone who knows subaru along before you purchase the car.
hope this helps.
there's no chance whatsover for you to run safely, i repeat! SAFELY to reach 370bhp. Not convinced? just go check out threads from heavy modders such as David Wallis, Rich Wild etc and you'll see that with extensive mods and other safety mods to preserve the engine, they are only running at approx 350ish whixh will be blistering quick.
my friend has a 2.2 stroker kit with antilag and he is running only at 1.3bar giving out 360bhp. so normal type r even with cossie pistons will not last long on that quoted power figure.
do check out the safety mods present on the car such as FMIC, oil cooler, uprated fuel pumps, gaskets, etc.
problem with my type r was it has blown 4 times due to fried pistons and i'm running std everything. so please beware or bring soemone who knows subaru along before you purchase the car.
hope this helps.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Not sure if you are interested but i have a V5 (not typeR) for sale with only 11500 miles on her with FSH it is a 2000 W reg in cool grey, 17" Alloys, etc, etc, the car is in great condition.
Selling to make way for an EVO7. looking for £15,500
In my opinion it is a better car than the Type R anyway, I have owned both and i found the Type R needs to be driven very carefully (in standard form) in the wet where the normal sti gives twice the grip levels, and less heart stopping moments !!
Anyway just thought I would comment.
Best regards,
Kevin.
Selling to make way for an EVO7. looking for £15,500
In my opinion it is a better car than the Type R anyway, I have owned both and i found the Type R needs to be driven very carefully (in standard form) in the wet where the normal sti gives twice the grip levels, and less heart stopping moments !!
Anyway just thought I would comment.
Best regards,
Kevin.
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ok to clear things up.
type r has more rear bias. from top my head 65/35 or circa.
therefore more tail happy than normal sti or wrx or even uk specs.
but u will have a elec diff control to get it to 50/50. so handling wise, depending on weather condition, provides more flexibility over normal but the rest stays the same.
and difference in gearing as well. type r has close ratio and short shift which gives better acceleration (a bit like RA)than normal wrxs and stis.
personally, i find the r more rigid than normal cars (due to it's coupe shell?) on the track compared to my old 4 door wrx sti v2.
saloon wins for practicality but type r for exclusitivity.
parts like rear discs and gearboxes for type r are different and might be difficult/pricey to source from experience.
hope this helps.
type r has more rear bias. from top my head 65/35 or circa.
therefore more tail happy than normal sti or wrx or even uk specs.
but u will have a elec diff control to get it to 50/50. so handling wise, depending on weather condition, provides more flexibility over normal but the rest stays the same.
and difference in gearing as well. type r has close ratio and short shift which gives better acceleration (a bit like RA)than normal wrxs and stis.
personally, i find the r more rigid than normal cars (due to it's coupe shell?) on the track compared to my old 4 door wrx sti v2.
saloon wins for practicality but type r for exclusitivity.
parts like rear discs and gearboxes for type r are different and might be difficult/pricey to source from experience.
hope this helps.
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Another bonus is you can't get a V6 in Black.....they didnt make them.....
But I have a Type R V4, and it is around the 370-380 mark and it has standard internals.......has been running like that for over 18,000k's.
I would use this opportunity to get the engine re-built to the specs you want, then buy it....and with a fresh engine rebuild, if its mapped by someone who knows what they are doin, then the car will run fine. I would put most engine problems down to bad tuning or bad servicing....or downright mistreatment...
But I have a Type R V4, and it is around the 370-380 mark and it has standard internals.......has been running like that for over 18,000k's.
I would use this opportunity to get the engine re-built to the specs you want, then buy it....and with a fresh engine rebuild, if its mapped by someone who knows what they are doin, then the car will run fine. I would put most engine problems down to bad tuning or bad servicing....or downright mistreatment...
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