hesitation - what are my options?
12 May 2002, 11:11 PM
#1
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Cold hesitation is normal. Warm hesitation is not. Check the spark plugs, MAF sensor for starters. More fuel and advance during spool up helps when warm too - in terms of torque, but it should not hesitate.
[Edited by john banks - 12/5/2002 11:12:03 PM]
[Edited by john banks - 12/5/2002 11:12:03 PM]
05 December 2002, 10:58 PM
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hi all
now settled into driving my MY99 turbo and the hesitation between 2k-3k revs is cracking me up.
i have been assured that it is a common problem with the ecu mapping of MY99/00 cars.
i am not interested in getting higher performance but would just like to get rid of the hesitation
so i would like to know what options are open to me?
is it something that could be sorted under warranty?(lol)
cheers
colin
now settled into driving my MY99 turbo and the hesitation between 2k-3k revs is cracking me up.
i have been assured that it is a common problem with the ecu mapping of MY99/00 cars.
i am not interested in getting higher performance but would just like to get rid of the hesitation
so i would like to know what options are open to me?
is it something that could be sorted under warranty?(lol)
cheers
colin
05 December 2002, 11:01 PM
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A few bits of interrogation first (sorry questions 
)
1. What fuel do you run?
2. Do you only get hesitation when cold?
3. How high up the rev range do you go when the car is cold?
Tony
)1. What fuel do you run?
2. Do you only get hesitation when cold?
3. How high up the rev range do you go when the car is cold?
Tony
05 December 2002, 11:28 PM
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tony / john thanks for replies.
i have only used optimax since i got it at the beginning of Sept and have had the ecu reset. the hesitation is 2.4-3krevs and is worse when cold but still noticeable when warm. i religiously do not take it over 3k revs until the temp guage(water)is at standard running temp.(sometimes even longer). i dont get any splutter from the engine just a very slight jerking sensation. the car is standard and has only done 36k with fssh.
cheers
i have only used optimax since i got it at the beginning of Sept and have had the ecu reset. the hesitation is 2.4-3krevs and is worse when cold but still noticeable when warm. i religiously do not take it over 3k revs until the temp guage(water)is at standard running temp.(sometimes even longer). i dont get any splutter from the engine just a very slight jerking sensation. the car is standard and has only done 36k with fssh.
cheers
06 December 2002, 10:55 AM
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Exactly the same problem on my99 until earlier this week
My thoughts were initially MAF (again) or plugs as mileage 83,500 so due plugs at 90k and car has been driven hard so could do with some now, no doubt
However as a last resort I switched back to SUL (from Optimax), used a bottle of STP injector cleaner, and gave the MAF a quick spray with Brake Cleaner and left it to dry, before starting.
Now running 100 times better and smoother (still with a slight flat spot at 4k)
Hope this helps
Exactly the same problem on my99 until earlier this week
My thoughts were initially MAF (again) or plugs as mileage 83,500 so due plugs at 90k and car has been driven hard so could do with some now, no doubt
However as a last resort I switched back to SUL (from Optimax), used a bottle of STP injector cleaner, and gave the MAF a quick spray with Brake Cleaner and left it to dry, before starting.
Now running 100 times better and smoother (still with a slight flat spot at 4k)
Hope this helps
06 December 2002, 11:40 AM
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Ok,
well my only suggestion is to try to drive around it.
When the car is cold (ie for the first 5 or so miles) keep it under 2.5k (your car will still go, trust me) and fuel wise, if your filling with optimax then make sure its from a garage that shifts alot of the stuff (ive never had a problem with it myself, but some have).
A free flowing exhaust may help you a little (downpipe back) as this doesnt usually invalidate your entire warranty (but get it checked out with your dealer first).
Tony
well my only suggestion is to try to drive around it.
When the car is cold (ie for the first 5 or so miles) keep it under 2.5k (your car will still go, trust me
) and fuel wise, if your filling with optimax then make sure its from a garage that shifts alot of the stuff (ive never had a problem with it myself, but some have).A free flowing exhaust may help you a little (downpipe back) as this doesnt usually invalidate your entire warranty (but get it checked out with your dealer first).
Tony
06 December 2002, 11:48 AM
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I had this ... just a bit annoying really rather than anything majorly amiss.
Backbox made no difference
.. nice noise though.
Swapped 802 ECU for 801 ECU .. better but still just there
SS DP fitted ... hesitation, what's that then
I have since added a Dawes and there is no noticeable hesitation.
I also religiously keep under 3K until warm, much nicer pull with all the above in the morning
I would suggest doing the DP.
Doofus.
What about a Tek2/3 ... comments suggest MUCH smoother. I'd at some point like to take off the Dawes, get TEk2 and also replace backbox with something less noisy (I have SS).
Backbox made no difference
.. nice noise though.Swapped 802 ECU for 801 ECU .. better but still just there
SS DP fitted ... hesitation, what's that then
I have since added a Dawes and there is no noticeable hesitation.
I also religiously keep under 3K until warm, much nicer pull with all the above in the morning
I would suggest doing the DP.
Doofus.
What about a Tek2/3 ... comments suggest MUCH smoother. I'd at some point like to take off the Dawes, get TEk2 and also replace backbox with something less noisy (I have SS).
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