Need Advice on Mods For MY01
20 October 2002, 06:52 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Picking up my second hand WRX next week and would like to know what people recommend for upgrades on the car.
I want to start with the usual,flter,exhaust and dump valve first and then on from there next year.
Any idea on what gains if any this will provide and whether this will effect the warranty.
I want to start with the usual,flter,exhaust and dump valve first and then on from there next year.
Any idea on what gains if any this will provide and whether this will effect the warranty.
20 October 2002, 11:49 PM
#2
Vanish,
A good few sites to visit are:
www.scoobysport.co.uk
www.j-w-racing.com
www.scoobymania.com
www.powerengineering.co.uk
www.grahamgoode.co.uk
www.scoobyworld.co.uk
these will give a good few mods for basically anything, from boost gauge to front mounted intercoolers (FMIC) Have fun
ScoobyDoo69
A good few sites to visit are:
www.scoobysport.co.uk
www.j-w-racing.com
www.scoobymania.com
www.powerengineering.co.uk
www.grahamgoode.co.uk
www.scoobyworld.co.uk
these will give a good few mods for basically anything, from boost gauge to front mounted intercoolers (FMIC) Have fun
ScoobyDoo69
21 October 2002, 11:07 AM
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Cheers for the info I will do some research. Anyone out there recommend any specific combination.
Forge dump valve,K&N and Magnex with decat is on the cards or is there anyone out there with any other suggestions.
Forge dump valve,K&N and Magnex with decat is on the cards or is there anyone out there with any other suggestions.
21 October 2002, 11:19 AM
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Vanish
The ITG filter seems to be the most popular. About £40 now.
I have a Forge VTA valve on mine and have been quite happy with it although the car is more jerky coming off boost than with the OE valve.
As far as exhausts go, there are a multitude of options catering for different needs. Some are louder, give better performance. Some have a sports cat so you needn't worry come MOT time. Your best bet is to phone a specialist for exhaust advice.
I can recommend Jamie Whitfield for sound impartial advice. www.performanceexhausts.net
Paul
The ITG filter seems to be the most popular. About £40 now.
I have a Forge VTA valve on mine and have been quite happy with it although the car is more jerky coming off boost than with the OE valve.
As far as exhausts go, there are a multitude of options catering for different needs. Some are louder, give better performance. Some have a sports cat so you needn't worry come MOT time. Your best bet is to phone a specialist for exhaust advice.
I can recommend Jamie Whitfield for sound impartial advice. www.performanceexhausts.net
Paul
21 October 2002, 04:35 PM
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One of the suppliers missed is TSL.
With the question of modifications then there are several questions you need to ask yourself:
Do you want everything to be warrenty safe.
How much are you wanting to spend!
What do you want from the car, do you want all out performance or do you want to be able to use the car day to day.
Are you looking at styling changes as well.
Unless the previous owner has done nothing to the car you will get some of the mods already.
Things I would think about first are:
Headlights, unless you like the OEM lights then these are usually the first things to be changed. You might also want to look at least changing the bulbs for stronger ones por even going to the extreme of getting HID replacements.
Brakes, changing the pads to something better does improve your stopping. I personally like the DS2500 pad, they do wear out quicker but they help stop you better. The you get full brake kits from Hispec, Brembo, AP and others. Full kits obviously cost more. You may even want to look at braided hoses as well to help with braking power.
Performance, here you could consider the Prodrive Performance Pack. This includes a decat link pipe, new back box, a bit of Samco hosing by the intercooler, a different restrictor and an ECU change that allows for more boost to be run.
The PPP is completely warrenty safe of course.
There are other ways of improving things further but then you are moving into the more grey/black are on the warrenty. Such changes would be third party ECUs with custom mapping for your car.
Third-party exhausts vary from performance to noise generating. The various exhausts on the market means a purchase here does need some careful thought. A note here some dealers don't like a differing exhaust from Subaru, others just say that they wont cover warrenty on the exhaust which is fair enough.
If you want to forget warrenty then there are front mount intercoolers and hybrid turbos... you need the bigger exhausts and thrid party ECUs at this point and the money is running away from you as well.
Suspension, here you can go for the Prodrive springs/Eibach springs or complete suspension changes. Replacing the springs is the cheapest way to lower the car and firm up the ride as the dampers remain the same.
Eibach springs are technically thrid-party but they are responsible for the manufacture of the Prodrive springs. Again it is personal choice I like the Eibachs others like the Prodrive. The Prodrive springs would not cause any warrenty issues, you would be unlucky to get collared for Eibachs.
The full suspension change to coil overs means that your springs and dampers are replaced for a set up that is fully customisable. Again this could cause some dealers to have a fit if warrenty needs to be invoked.
Geometery setup is a great change that means the car can feel even more sure on the road. TSL do have a great reputation here, although I appear biased at times many other people do use them for this adjustment to the car setup.
Dump valves, a big area! An atmospheric dump value means the turbo slows down when you lift off under its own momentum. The recirc dump valves (such as the OEM) put the air back into the system and stops the turbo spinning quicker. Not stopping the turbo should give a reaction increase to the car as the turbo will not take as long to spool up again when it is required. I am prepared to stand corrected here.
I went with the HKS SQV (atmos dump valve) as it gave what I wanted and makes a much bigger sound to the Forge.
Styling, getting rid of the orange was a personal must and depending on the car colour and what you like depends on what you replace them with. There are a variety of replacements for the side repeater lenses and reflectors.
In styling there are far to many body kits available to list them all but they range from the Prodrive Aero kit (gentle looking IMO) to the more aggresive C-West kit. Prices vary of course but never forget to factor in painting!
Tyres, the rubber does make a difference. I like the Gooodyear Eagle F1 others prefer the Toyos some like the P Zero. Again it is down to what you want and if you want lots of views about which tyre is best then ask in that forum, just don't turn on e-mail notification!
Wheels are another favourite to change, they range from cast alloy (heavy and quite strong) through to forged alloy (light and very strong). Of course the prices goes up as well. When choosing a wheel look at the design you like and the look at what is also available.
Okay that went on for a bit longer than I expected! I hope it is of some use without teaching you to suck eggs.
Most of all enjoy the car.
With the question of modifications then there are several questions you need to ask yourself:
Do you want everything to be warrenty safe.
How much are you wanting to spend!
What do you want from the car, do you want all out performance or do you want to be able to use the car day to day.
Are you looking at styling changes as well.
Unless the previous owner has done nothing to the car you will get some of the mods already.
Things I would think about first are:
Headlights, unless you like the OEM lights then these are usually the first things to be changed. You might also want to look at least changing the bulbs for stronger ones por even going to the extreme of getting HID replacements.
Brakes, changing the pads to something better does improve your stopping. I personally like the DS2500 pad, they do wear out quicker but they help stop you better. The you get full brake kits from Hispec, Brembo, AP and others. Full kits obviously cost more. You may even want to look at braided hoses as well to help with braking power.
Performance, here you could consider the Prodrive Performance Pack. This includes a decat link pipe, new back box, a bit of Samco hosing by the intercooler, a different restrictor and an ECU change that allows for more boost to be run.
The PPP is completely warrenty safe of course.
There are other ways of improving things further but then you are moving into the more grey/black are on the warrenty. Such changes would be third party ECUs with custom mapping for your car.
Third-party exhausts vary from performance to noise generating. The various exhausts on the market means a purchase here does need some careful thought. A note here some dealers don't like a differing exhaust from Subaru, others just say that they wont cover warrenty on the exhaust which is fair enough.
If you want to forget warrenty then there are front mount intercoolers and hybrid turbos... you need the bigger exhausts and thrid party ECUs at this point and the money is running away from you as well.
Suspension, here you can go for the Prodrive springs/Eibach springs or complete suspension changes. Replacing the springs is the cheapest way to lower the car and firm up the ride as the dampers remain the same.
Eibach springs are technically thrid-party but they are responsible for the manufacture of the Prodrive springs. Again it is personal choice I like the Eibachs others like the Prodrive. The Prodrive springs would not cause any warrenty issues, you would be unlucky to get collared for Eibachs.
The full suspension change to coil overs means that your springs and dampers are replaced for a set up that is fully customisable. Again this could cause some dealers to have a fit if warrenty needs to be invoked.
Geometery setup is a great change that means the car can feel even more sure on the road. TSL do have a great reputation here, although I appear biased at times many other people do use them for this adjustment to the car setup.
Dump valves, a big area! An atmospheric dump value means the turbo slows down when you lift off under its own momentum. The recirc dump valves (such as the OEM) put the air back into the system and stops the turbo spinning quicker. Not stopping the turbo should give a reaction increase to the car as the turbo will not take as long to spool up again when it is required. I am prepared to stand corrected here.
I went with the HKS SQV (atmos dump valve) as it gave what I wanted and makes a much bigger sound to the Forge.
Styling, getting rid of the orange was a personal must and depending on the car colour and what you like depends on what you replace them with. There are a variety of replacements for the side repeater lenses and reflectors.
In styling there are far to many body kits available to list them all but they range from the Prodrive Aero kit (gentle looking IMO) to the more aggresive C-West kit. Prices vary of course but never forget to factor in painting!
Tyres, the rubber does make a difference. I like the Gooodyear Eagle F1 others prefer the Toyos some like the P Zero. Again it is down to what you want and if you want lots of views about which tyre is best then ask in that forum, just don't turn on e-mail notification!
Wheels are another favourite to change, they range from cast alloy (heavy and quite strong) through to forged alloy (light and very strong). Of course the prices goes up as well. When choosing a wheel look at the design you like and the look at what is also available.
Okay that went on for a bit longer than I expected! I hope it is of some use without teaching you to suck eggs.
Most of all enjoy the car.
21 October 2002, 07:51 PM
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the info guys.
I will take Mattels advice on the Dump valve and look into the exhaust and filter side of things.
Next year 18's with new suspension and ecu enquiries with bigger turbo as well and look at the high spec upgrade on brakes.
Got lots of plans for the car I wanna get it running between 260 and 300 bhp if poss next year.
I will need it for pushing friends in my local RS owners club to get em back for the stick im gonna get when I turn up in it Nov 3rd.
Gonna love it oh to be different.
I will take Mattels advice on the Dump valve and look into the exhaust and filter side of things.
Next year 18's with new suspension and ecu enquiries with bigger turbo as well and look at the high spec upgrade on brakes.
Got lots of plans for the car I wanna get it running between 260 and 300 bhp if poss next year.
I will need it for pushing friends in my local RS owners club to get em back for the stick im gonna get when I turn up in it Nov 3rd.
Gonna love it oh to be different.
22 October 2002, 08:52 AM
#7
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Vanish
Speaking as someone who was in your position about a year ago, here's what I ended up doing:
Car was a blue/black MY01 WRX. It came with the 18" Prodrive OZ wheels (in anthracite) and the carbon fibre effect dash kit (surprisingly nice).
I've added:
Colour coded Morrettes with HID
RallyTech rear spoiler
Sprayed the front side indicators
Changed the other indicators to smoked
Forge VTA DV - nice noise but not too Max Power
Full Scoobysport decat (downpipe / both centres and backbox)
Eibach springs (with full geometry alignment by Powerstation)
Prodrive quickshift
It ends up looking like this
:
Pretty pleased with it now. Power wise - never been on a rolling road, but graphs from similar cars would suggest something around 240 to 245 bhp - certainly feels like it and there is a load more torque. Sounds good as well.
Chris
[Edited by Chris L - 10/22/2002 8:53:34 AM]
Speaking as someone who was in your position about a year ago, here's what I ended up doing:
Car was a blue/black MY01 WRX. It came with the 18" Prodrive OZ wheels (in anthracite) and the carbon fibre effect dash kit (surprisingly nice).
I've added:
Colour coded Morrettes with HID
RallyTech rear spoiler
Sprayed the front side indicators
Changed the other indicators to smoked
Forge VTA DV - nice noise but not too Max Power
Full Scoobysport decat (downpipe / both centres and backbox)
Eibach springs (with full geometry alignment by Powerstation)
Prodrive quickshift
It ends up looking like this
:Pretty pleased with it now. Power wise - never been on a rolling road, but graphs from similar cars would suggest something around 240 to 245 bhp - certainly feels like it and there is a load more torque. Sounds good as well.
Chris
[Edited by Chris L - 10/22/2002 8:53:34 AM]
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22 October 2002, 09:43 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the pics and the info your car looks very nice indeed. I look forward to meeting up with some people from the board next year.
I am going up to the midlands meet in Coventry in November.And then onto the Northants RS owners meet same night to see me old mates.
The car I have brought is in mettalic green with 17's but I will want to change them to 18's or possibly 19's if they go on and dont mess the camber up to much.
Forge or HKS dump valve,Magnex with downpipe and filter to be decided on.
Then next year I will start looking at bigger turbo,brakes and mapping etc.
Thanks for the pics and the info your car looks very nice indeed. I look forward to meeting up with some people from the board next year.
I am going up to the midlands meet in Coventry in November.And then onto the Northants RS owners meet same night to see me old mates.
The car I have brought is in mettalic green with 17's but I will want to change them to 18's or possibly 19's if they go on and dont mess the camber up to much.
Forge or HKS dump valve,Magnex with downpipe and filter to be decided on.
Then next year I will start looking at bigger turbo,brakes and mapping etc.
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