Clicking from the front wheels
#1
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Could anyone help with a bit of diagnosis?
When turning through tight corners, including roundabouts. I hear a clicking from the front wheels.
The speed of the clicking is dependent on the speed, obviously.
The clicking is regular.
I have groved discs on the car and it was suggested that might be causing it although people with the same discs don't notice the noise.
The wheels are all secure (I checked with a torque wrench) and apparently the CV joints are fine.
If anyone has any sensible suggestions I would appreciate it.
Cheers,
Mark
When turning through tight corners, including roundabouts. I hear a clicking from the front wheels.
The speed of the clicking is dependent on the speed, obviously.
The clicking is regular.
I have groved discs on the car and it was suggested that might be causing it although people with the same discs don't notice the noise.
The wheels are all secure (I checked with a torque wrench) and apparently the CV joints are fine.
If anyone has any sensible suggestions I would appreciate it.
Cheers,
Mark
#3
Got grooved discs myself and never noticed anything.
Is this sound coming from both front wheels? Does it still make the noise when at full lock and moving slowly? How about when the wheels are being driven or when "freewheeling"? Are they clicking "in time" or are they out of sync (ie.. clicking independant of each other)?
You could try jacking the car up and turning the wheels by hand and see if it does the same. Just a suggestion.
Is this sound coming from both front wheels? Does it still make the noise when at full lock and moving slowly? How about when the wheels are being driven or when "freewheeling"? Are they clicking "in time" or are they out of sync (ie.. clicking independant of each other)?
You could try jacking the car up and turning the wheels by hand and see if it does the same. Just a suggestion.
#4
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The right wheel clicks on left lock and right wheel clicks on left lock.
So it is both wheels.
It is only when turning and not when travelling in a straight line.
So it is both wheels.
It is only when turning and not when travelling in a straight line.
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So in a one half years I have managed to screw the CV joints!?!
I guess it is time to contact the dealers and see if this is going to be covered under warrenty (non-Subaru wheels, non-Subaru discs, non-Subaru brakes, etc).
Strange how it just had a service recently!
I guess it is time to contact the dealers and see if this is going to be covered under warrenty (non-Subaru wheels, non-Subaru discs, non-Subaru brakes, etc).
Strange how it just had a service recently!
#7
You might get away with it cuz the problem doesn't really have anything to do with your brakes. I remember seeing a thread where a warranty company refused to pay out on a repair because of mods but the cars owner got the garage to inform the warranty company that the mods had absolutely no bearing on the fault. He got it settled ok IIRC.
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#8
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Just a thought, If the cv boots have been changed at all and the replacements done up with the ever so useful zip tie, may be the end of it has not been cut short enough and taps the hub when on lock, had a few people in with this in the past !!
but most likely to be joints as said
Andy
but most likely to be joints as said
Andy
#9
I find it very hard to believe that both cv joints have gone the same way, at same time. IMO this far too much of a coincidence, I would look for other answers here. Not to sure what that might be, maybe suspension bushes or something like brake hoses touching your wheels on full lock or even something not quite correctly fitted on your up grades!
ps. Take it you have checked properly the whole circumference of the tyres (ie removed the wheels or at least jacked the car up) for stones!
ps. Take it you have checked properly the whole circumference of the tyres (ie removed the wheels or at least jacked the car up) for stones!
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The car has been on ramps three times now looking for a obvious fault, nothing yet has been found.
The clicking didn't start until around the 40,000 mile service (just before but it was very faint).
Since then it has got lounder and more obvious, sometimes heard in the car (when the stereo is off).
The dealers are having a look at the CV joints soon (under warrenty) and are fairly sure that is what is causing the clicking.
Apparently a couple of MY01s have suffered a similar fate.
I guess it is just my luck to join the same number that have had a problem!:rooleyes:
Thanks to those on the board that confirmed what other off the board suggested. Thanks to Adams for looking at it straight away and getting it booked in quickly!
The clicking didn't start until around the 40,000 mile service (just before but it was very faint).
Since then it has got lounder and more obvious, sometimes heard in the car (when the stereo is off).
The dealers are having a look at the CV joints soon (under warrenty) and are fairly sure that is what is causing the clicking.
Apparently a couple of MY01s have suffered a similar fate.
I guess it is just my luck to join the same number that have had a problem!:rooleyes:
Thanks to those on the board that confirmed what other off the board suggested. Thanks to Adams for looking at it straight away and getting it booked in quickly!
#11
If possible, could you mail me with the diagnosis. I have exactly the same problem and one dealer couldn't find anything. I have not tried another yet. Mine also around the 40k mark. cheers.
#12
Yep, I get ticking too
Doom & gloom CV-joint types - this is a ticking, not a clonking! If these are the CV joints, they're nothing like I've ever heard before...
I reckon it's something silly. Sounds like a twig flicking against the wheel spokes (are they called spokes? ) so probably a cable-tie or something
Doom & gloom CV-joint types - this is a ticking, not a clonking! If these are the CV joints, they're nothing like I've ever heard before...
I reckon it's something silly. Sounds like a twig flicking against the wheel spokes (are they called spokes? ) so probably a cable-tie or something
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I had a clicking noise a few weeks ago, not disagreeing with Diablo, but sounds like it could be brake/caliper shims....the calipers need taking apart & greasing basically.
Obviously without hearing the fault it's hard to diagnose anyway.
does it happen even when the car is stood still but when turning lock-2-lock ??
prob find it's just 1 side anyway, unuasual for both calipers to be struggling.
All IMHO of course
shunty
Obviously without hearing the fault it's hard to diagnose anyway.
does it happen even when the car is stood still but when turning lock-2-lock ??
prob find it's just 1 side anyway, unuasual for both calipers to be struggling.
All IMHO of course
shunty
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heres one I made earlier:
"BRAKE PADCLICKING NOISE Models: '90- '00 All Models Introduction A clicking type noise may be noticed when first applying the brakesafter changing vehicle travel direction (Drive/Forward to Reverse, Reverse to Drive/Forward). This is a normal noise caused by the required brake pad-to-caliper clearances. When the direction of travel is changed, the brake pads may "shift" towards the new direction of travel. When the brake pad contacts the caliper, a clicking noise may be heard. To minimize this clicking noise, a disc brake caliper grease has been made available for use during brake service/maintenance operations. Under normal usage conditions this grease should be effective for a period of 6 months to 1 year."
shunty
"BRAKE PADCLICKING NOISE Models: '90- '00 All Models Introduction A clicking type noise may be noticed when first applying the brakesafter changing vehicle travel direction (Drive/Forward to Reverse, Reverse to Drive/Forward). This is a normal noise caused by the required brake pad-to-caliper clearances. When the direction of travel is changed, the brake pads may "shift" towards the new direction of travel. When the brake pad contacts the caliper, a clicking noise may be heard. To minimize this clicking noise, a disc brake caliper grease has been made available for use during brake service/maintenance operations. Under normal usage conditions this grease should be effective for a period of 6 months to 1 year."
shunty
#17
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So going around a corner when the brakes have not been applied and hearing the noise... also this is happening on an MY01.
BTW this noise has confounded quite a few technicians now.
The dealers are basically examining the CVs as a dignostic and hopefully a fix measure.
BTW this noise has confounded quite a few technicians now.
The dealers are basically examining the CVs as a dignostic and hopefully a fix measure.
#18
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Mattel - if you look at my replies, I did ask a couple of questions for your problem, my second answer was directed more so at Nom...hence the "Nom" in the reply.
if your symptoms are like noms then yes it could be the shims...
just trying to be helpful, a few people told me it was my cv joint etc also.
& yes it still makes the clicking sound even though the brakes are not applied.
In your case if it has been to experts already then maybe it's not that.
Does your noise sound exactly like Nom's ??
ps - just because a compaq engineer says it's broken doesn't always mean it is ya know I tend to always keep an open mind when it comes to troubleshooting.
shunty
if your symptoms are like noms then yes it could be the shims...
just trying to be helpful, a few people told me it was my cv joint etc also.
& yes it still makes the clicking sound even though the brakes are not applied.
In your case if it has been to experts already then maybe it's not that.
Does your noise sound exactly like Nom's ??
ps - just because a compaq engineer says it's broken doesn't always mean it is ya know I tend to always keep an open mind when it comes to troubleshooting.
shunty
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Not much use but I thought the thread was titled...."CHICKEN from the front wheels" :
Made me laff
Hope you get it sorted mate, I reckon you've got summat stuck in ya wheel, tyre, brake assembly, etc and it's catching as it goes round.
I agree keep an open mind. Remember the "Thump heard when booting it in 2nd gear" threads and everyone was spouting gloom and doom about diffs failing etc. I crapped myself cos i was getting it. Turned out that my Jack was loose
Mikey
Made me laff
Hope you get it sorted mate, I reckon you've got summat stuck in ya wheel, tyre, brake assembly, etc and it's catching as it goes round.
I agree keep an open mind. Remember the "Thump heard when booting it in 2nd gear" threads and everyone was spouting gloom and doom about diffs failing etc. I crapped myself cos i was getting it. Turned out that my Jack was loose
Mikey
#20
If it was CV joints, in my experience (on cars other than Scoobies admittedly but they tend to be the same) the noise is only heard under load at full lock or near full lock. Normal conditions where the "graunchy crunch crunch crunch noise" is heard are when pulling out of a T-junction, especially if done quickly and right hand turns. A CV joint rarely makes a noise when not under load (coasting round corners).
Alternative sources could be heat shield touching brake disk, or small stone(S)/gravel trapped between heat shield and disk, or a stone in the tyre tread, near the edge that is only making contact when cornering sufficiently hard to get the tyre to roll onto the outer tread area.
Does the noise continue all the way through a long turn, if you go round and round on full lock in a car park for example?
If it happens for the first part of the turn and then stops my money is on something far more obscure: I had a similar ticking/rattle noise when cornering hardish in one direction then I wouldn't hear it again until cornering hardish in the other direction. This gave the clue that it was something moving under lateral g. You could hear it in the cabin with the stereo off, but with the window open it was much quieter. It also happened more at lower speeds. It turned out to be gravel (a couple of bits) rolling in the cross member under the front seats. How did it get there I hear you ask. Well the air vents to the back footwell go in the front and out the back of said cross members and gravel can get kicked (or rolls in under braking) in between the plastic vent and the hole it passes through! I got the gravel out with a high powered vacuum and then filled that gaps round the vent pipes with foam and have never suffered it again.
Alternative sources could be heat shield touching brake disk, or small stone(S)/gravel trapped between heat shield and disk, or a stone in the tyre tread, near the edge that is only making contact when cornering sufficiently hard to get the tyre to roll onto the outer tread area.
Does the noise continue all the way through a long turn, if you go round and round on full lock in a car park for example?
If it happens for the first part of the turn and then stops my money is on something far more obscure: I had a similar ticking/rattle noise when cornering hardish in one direction then I wouldn't hear it again until cornering hardish in the other direction. This gave the clue that it was something moving under lateral g. You could hear it in the cabin with the stereo off, but with the window open it was much quieter. It also happened more at lower speeds. It turned out to be gravel (a couple of bits) rolling in the cross member under the front seats. How did it get there I hear you ask. Well the air vents to the back footwell go in the front and out the back of said cross members and gravel can get kicked (or rolls in under braking) in between the plastic vent and the hole it passes through! I got the gravel out with a high powered vacuum and then filled that gaps round the vent pipes with foam and have never suffered it again.
#22
First: Check the wheel nuts are up to correct torque.
Second: Get the wheel hubs checked, might be worn bearings, especially after 40K miles. Not necessarily actual bearing grinding, but could be play in bearing allowing disk to click against pads or something at full lock.
Moray
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#23
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Seeing I don't have the shields on the car anymore I was able to discount them quickly, although I appreciate the suggestion as no one knew that fact about the car.
I have looked under the car when it has been on the ramps. There is nothing touching the wheels or discs, the discs are groved which means any forgien objects should be ejected.
It is when the car is under load and going through tight corners.
I do still have an open mind about the cause of the noise as it is getting worse and I am detecting vibration thrugh the steering wheel then it is looking more like the CV joint. Although I would dearly love it to be something simple and fixed in five minutes.
I have looked under the car when it has been on the ramps. There is nothing touching the wheels or discs, the discs are groved which means any forgien objects should be ejected.
It is when the car is under load and going through tight corners.
I do still have an open mind about the cause of the noise as it is getting worse and I am detecting vibration thrugh the steering wheel then it is looking more like the CV joint. Although I would dearly love it to be something simple and fixed in five minutes.
#24
Still sounds like you need to check the wheel bearings, at least that will rule them out. As I posted earlier, these could potentially yeild a clicking on lock even though you can't see anything touching/near enough to the disc at rest to cause it. If the bearing is shot, the relationship between the brake disc (mounted to the roadwheel side of the bearing) and the brake caliper (mounted to the car side) could vary much more than standard tolerances allow, hence letting the one hit the other.
I am suprised that TSL haven't solved that for you! IIRC, they were designing their own suspension kits, so they ought to have a very good understanding of the workings of the cars standard suspension system too. I am assuming that you have tried them, based on the "location" in your profile!
Moray
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I am suprised that TSL haven't solved that for you! IIRC, they were designing their own suspension kits, so they ought to have a very good understanding of the workings of the cars standard suspension system too. I am assuming that you have tried them, based on the "location" in your profile!
Moray
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#25
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I have been in a great deal of contact with TSL, in fact the car was on their ramps first.
As this car is still under warrenty though for this sort of thing it does have to end up at a main Subaru dealer.
I have been told if it was the wheel bearings then the sound should be more of a drone.
Adams (the dealers) have said though if the CV joints are fin and everything else checks out the wheels bearings come out. Shame is when you take them out they have to be replaced as they can't be put back in as taking them out damages them.
As this car is still under warrenty though for this sort of thing it does have to end up at a main Subaru dealer.
I have been told if it was the wheel bearings then the sound should be more of a drone.
Adams (the dealers) have said though if the CV joints are fin and everything else checks out the wheels bearings come out. Shame is when you take them out they have to be replaced as they can't be put back in as taking them out damages them.
#26
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Moray... the first thing I did was check the wheels nuts using the torque wrench that is in the boot!
Adams are wanting to try everything else first before taking the bearings out. Which is fair enough, I would be a bit upset, if I were them, and sorted the wheel bearings out only to find that it was something less destructive.
(Reason for the second post was I missed a couple of posts and I wanted to make sure I covered everything)
Adams are wanting to try everything else first before taking the bearings out. Which is fair enough, I would be a bit upset, if I were them, and sorted the wheel bearings out only to find that it was something less destructive.
(Reason for the second post was I missed a couple of posts and I wanted to make sure I covered everything)
#27
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oh eerr... I better dissapear now Moray is on the thread...he will find out that I know very little technically
Mind you I will folllow this thread, as I would like to find out what the problem is.
Mattel - good luck with sorting it anyway
shunty
Mind you I will folllow this thread, as I would like to find out what the problem is.
Mattel - good luck with sorting it anyway
shunty
#28
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lol Shunty Thanks for the comments and enjoy the lurking!
I honestly thoght this thread would die the death that most of my technical ones would...
Big thank you to those that have posted helpful comments, suggestions and ideas. To the one that didn't, Mikey get you eyes checked mate!
As things progress I will let you all know.
I honestly thoght this thread would die the death that most of my technical ones would...
Big thank you to those that have posted helpful comments, suggestions and ideas. To the one that didn't, Mikey get you eyes checked mate!
As things progress I will let you all know.
#29
It should be possible to at least partially check the wheel bearings simply by jacking the front of the car up and then feeling for play by trying to twist the front wheels up and down... but they would have to be fairly bad to spot them easily this way.
#30
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don't discount the wheel bearing tho, just because it has no play in it.
I have in the past found wheel bearings to have no play and still be noisey !
should be said tho I have always found bearings to " graunch or howl" rather than click !
Andy
[Edited by Fuzz - 10/16/2002 4:34:22 PM]
I have in the past found wheel bearings to have no play and still be noisey !
should be said tho I have always found bearings to " graunch or howl" rather than click !
Andy
[Edited by Fuzz - 10/16/2002 4:34:22 PM]