Fuzz

What you could try, if you have the time and tools to do so is...

take the lower arm off and remove the driveshaft (take it out of the equation so to speak) then turn the wheel and see if it clicks.

don't put any weight on the wheel tho as there will be nothing holding the bearings in and your wheel will fall off

Andy.

MorayMackenzie

Fuzz,

That really does sound like an elaborate way to waste time!

I don't understand what you would achieve by stripping things down to that level purely to see if it clicks. If you were doing all that anyway, you might as well just detach the lower arm and hub assembly and inspect/change the bearing anyway.

Incidentally, if you do strip things to this level, please make sure you secure the driveshaft wheelnut correctly afterwards, to the correct torque and using a new locking nut if needed. I once had a driveshaft swapped at a well known tuning company, they left the bolt loose. Luckily I spotted it and fixed it myself before the wheel fell off!

Moray

shunty

still lurking

shunty

Fuzz

That really does sound like an elaborate way to waste time!

and what the cost of a mis-diagnosed cv joint / wheel bearing?

Personal opinion is my time has no cost...
Having the time to "waste" as you put it is a diferent matter.
I do, so to save my self spending say £50 on a cv joint only to find it was the wheel bearing would pish me off somewhat.
and conversley having changed a wheel bearing which I find a pig of a job anyway only to find it was the cv joint, not only now have I wasted an admittedly smaller amount of cash but spent sweat and tears on a wheel bearing that was ok [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

comments on checking tightness / durability of locknut accepted

going back to the original thread,
Mattel is obviously aggreived by this sound by having no definite answer to it's cause. I would warrant this enough cause to investigate further myself.

Andy

shunty

out of interest Nom, what was the problem for you then ??

shunty

nom

No idea - still got it It's not worrying me too much as it happens only very rarely - I'm going to wait & see if it gets worse so it's easier to find.
But I have a feeling that it's the anti-rattle plates. Or rather the lack of them

MATTeL

Okay the noise is certainly not from the plates that sit behind the discs, mainly because they don't exist on my car (335mm discs would meant that they never would have fitted).

If by anti-rattle plate you mean the thing that sits on the calipers to hold the pads in place then that does exits and is working fine.

No one else with these brakes are suffering from the clicking noise so that in my mind indicates the issue is else where.

The sound did occur immediately after fitting the brakes, again for me indicating something else.

The brakes have been checked over completely and everything found to be in order.

The CV check is under warrenty so the cost issue is rather mute.

Thanks again for all the ideas and comments. Nice to know the serious forums still work well.

Mark

nom

And your brakes are...? (he says with his 335mm Godspeeds, the noise being noticed shortly after fitting them)

shunty

**ahem** when I said £20....I meant each

edited to add - nom, you didn't mention the noise started just after your brakes had been fitted

ps - I have just fitted a new graphics card to my pc & now there is no picture on the monitor....I think it could be the electricity supply, what do ya think

shunty

[Edited by shunty - 10/18/2002 2:47:48 PM]

MATTeL

Hi-spec brakes.

So what noise does/did your car make?

nom

ticky ticky ticky

And the noise may have been there before (it was probably a couple of months after changing them that I noticed it), but really I only noticed becaused I had a bit of a major amp failure so was drifting about without-racket - wouldn't have had a chance of hearing any ticking noises before then!
So I wouldn't want to link the brakes/ticking. It's possible link, but no more

Catalunya 051

Are they grooved disks MATTel? Is there any possible way that the grooves are catching on say the calliper under corner loads if the clearances are marginal? Or could it be the wheel/calliper clearance is on the limit? What type of wheels do you have?

I know these are a bit basic questions and you have probably thought about them already but sometimes the obvious things get discounted early on and it turns out to be the problem staring you in the face.