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Going to attempt timing belt / water pump change

Old 29 December 2018, 10:35 AM
  #1  
The Rig
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Default Going to attempt timing belt / water pump change

So before I start any pre advice to help the job ?

Will watch a few vids but 1 thing I'm asking is does the crank pulley need to come off ?

Of so how how do you lock the engine up ?

Assume i align all marks before taking old belt off , release tensioner ( old style 1995 ) remove belt , make sure all aligned and easy peasy lol ha

cheers
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Old 29 December 2018, 10:40 AM
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Locking the cam sprockets off was the only pain, I made a locking tool, but the rest is dead easy,
Yes the pulley does come off to remove the cambelt cover.
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Old 29 December 2018, 11:36 AM
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ok bud thanks, i havent looked into locking the cams but looking at the tool im sure i can make something up with all th ebar/bolts and dremmel i have etc.

Undoing the crank pulley is my only worry , im guessing put it in gear and attempt to undo it ?
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Old 29 December 2018, 11:49 AM
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will you be doing the full timing kit?

what about front crank oil seal and an inspection of the oil pump as i believe the backs can work their way loose aswell
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Old 29 December 2018, 12:09 PM
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Yeah full timing kit and water pump ( current 24 yr old pump seal has finally failed ) hence doing it , belt wasn't due for another 30k or so but hey ho

oil pump was replaced in 2011 I think it was when belt was last done

will check crank seal but even if it is weaping I won't be doing it lol car needs to be in use can't have it off the road
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Old 29 December 2018, 01:13 PM
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I didn't bother with cam locking tool,just patients,long arms and a bit of swearing lol.
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved

https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...tml?styleid=28
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Old 29 December 2018, 02:31 PM
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I've done it twice now but only with the engine out. For sure the cam locking tool was bloody useful.

The hardest thing is winding off the crank damper bolt, they are pretty tight! Make sure to clean up the threads for that when you put it back in.

I took lots of pictures of each cam and crank sprocket and the lines on each and the belt to save that 'did I, didn't I?' later on!

Good luck with it!
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Old 29 December 2018, 04:23 PM
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Also use a piece of cereal packet cardboard as a spacer for setting the belt guide clearance, they are usually about 0.75 or 0.8 mm thick and perfect for it (spec was 1+-0.5mm on my hawk).

Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
I didn't bother with cam locking tool,just patients,long arms and a bit of swearing lol.
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved

https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...tml?styleid=28
Ok cheers for the link i might need to re-read it once im doing the job lol, im guessing that method is for when you dont have the locking tools ? as it seems if you have the locking tools, you line the marks up so they align then put the belt on then release tensioner etc.

With the method in the link above you set the timing marks quite a way off from being aligned so when you do then release the tensioner it pulls the cams together ???

And with the crank pulley, mine has 4 holes in it, im guessing i can use either of those ? and where does it have to be to lock into the flywheel, 1 oclock, 11 o clock etc ?

Thanks

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Old 29 December 2018, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bazil_SW View Post
Also use a piece of cereal packet cardboard as a spacer for setting the belt guide clearance, they are usually about 0.75 or 0.8 mm thick and perfect for it (spec was 1+-0.5mm on my hawk).

Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
Ok bud thanks for that bit of info, i wouldnt of known about the guide plate tolerance etc , im guessing the plate has a bit of slack in the bolt holes to allow for it to be a bit tight or loose against the belt
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:35 PM
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The crank pulley has them 4 holes for the subaru special tool,you won't get it off using one of the holes I doubt.
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
The crank pulley has them 4 holes for the subaru special tool,you won't get it off using one of the holes I doubt.
ok im confused now, you said use a 10mm allen key in the crank pulley , im guesisng you mean once the covers are all off then to remove the crank sprocket ?
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:38 PM
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by The Rig View Post
ok im confused now, you said use a 10mm allen key in the crank pulley , im guesisng you mean once the covers are all off then to remove the crank sprocket ?
You need to remove pulley to get cover off.
It's a 10mm Allen key to lock fly wheel.
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by The Rig View Post
Ok bud thanks for that bit of info, i wouldnt of known about the guide plate tolerance etc , im guessing the plate has a bit of slack in the bolt holes to allow for it to be a bit tight or loose against the belt
yeah they are adjustable, each plate has slots for it. Best to search for the torque setting / tightening procedure of the crank bolt also, it's torque and turn on the newages.
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:48 PM
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ok on 2 different paths lol, when you said a 10mm allen key i was picturing the crank pulley still, im now guessing you mean the 10mm allen key goes into the flywheel when you remove the intercooler and the rubber bung on the bell housing
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:51 PM
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**** i tmight try this method

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Old 29 December 2018, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bazil_SW View Post
yeah they are adjustable, each plate has slots for it. Best to search for the torque setting / tightening procedure of the crank bolt also, it's torque and turn on the newages.
ok bu d thanks will google some torque settings etc
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:53 PM
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Yes and a big breaker bar,came off easy.
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Old 29 December 2018, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by The Rig View Post
**** i tmight try this method

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnkcnqF_S3c
Nice,looks easy enough
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Old 29 December 2018, 08:20 PM
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I've done mine twice now with my mechanic but still not confident enough to do it on my own.
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Old 30 December 2018, 01:50 AM
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-VS....c101006.m3226

Bought two of these locking tools, you remove the metal cover on the camshaft sprockets that cover the bolts. Set the timing marks fit these locking tools and tighten them up and go from there. I also took the opportunity to fit an uprated RCM oil pump aswell as their crankshaft belt guide as it is more substantial.
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Old 30 December 2018, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jaygsi View Post
I've done mine twice now with my mechanic but still not confident enough to do it on my own.
Not sure why, its just like doing any other cambelt.
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Old 30 December 2018, 08:09 PM
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If you are changing the water pump too, it can be a bit tricky keeping the gasket in place when offering up the pump to the block.
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.

Mick
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Old 30 December 2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by merlin24 View Post
If you are changing the water pump too, it can be a bit tricky keeping the gasket in place when offering up the pump to the block.
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.

Mick
top tip, I like!
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Old 30 December 2018, 09:10 PM
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Did one years ago on old Vauxhall 8v luckily only bent one valve. Put me off doing it again. A lot more at stake. Would need follow a very detailed video or shown first person.


Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
Not sure why, its just like doing any other cambelt.
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Old 30 December 2018, 10:18 PM
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If your not sure do you not just remove plugs and turnover by hand to check valve/piston interference
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Old 31 December 2018, 02:24 PM
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Right guys, i have started the job and some questions

This is on a 1995 WRX

So, if i align the crank sprocket line up with the notch on the block the timing marks ( 2 lines together ) on the cams ( the passenger side cams ) dont line up, see pics , now, is this correct, does only 1 of the 2 lines need to align or should both line up ? if both need to line up has my cambelt that was changed a few yrs ago not been fitted 100% ?

Crank sprocket lined up / Cam timing marks out






Now Cam sprockets lined up / Crank sprocket out of alignment







So, before i remove the belt, do i just align the crank sprocket , then when the belt is off i can manually move the cams to fully line up as they should ?


Oh and for some reason i dont have a guide plate fitted !?!?!?!?!?!?!? Now the last belt was changed at API some yrs ago . . . . . . . . . . .

cheers
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Old 31 December 2018, 02:43 PM
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Although they look slightly out, they're near enough. I wouldn't worry at all about that. Just get the old belt off and get the new one on. Don't forget the marks on the sides of the sprockets as well. Get a little mirror so that you can look at them once they are on as it's easy to have the belt a tooth out at first. Lock the cams before taking the old belt off. All I use is a mini chisel wrapped heavily in tape so as to avoid damage to the teeth on the sprockets and I wedge it between the cams on the right hand side.

You may not have a guide plate fitted as early cars didn't have them. The original oil pumps don't have the mountings for them so the pump may have been changed but because there was no guide on the car to start with, the fitter never added one. You can fit one yourself while everything is off. Get an RCM one or a CDF one.
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Old 31 December 2018, 03:17 PM
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Presumably there are still belt guides for the cam sprockets (4 off), even on early models?
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