Help please. Stop brake fluid with steel braided hoses?[
#1
Help please. Stop brake fluid with steel braided hoses?[
Thanks for any replies. Apologies in advance as I know this is the wrong section but have posted this first on wheels, brakes ……. but no replies.
I have just changed out the brake fluid on my WR1 with Brembo callipers. On completion of the job when torqueing the calliper bleed screws to the recommended toque of 20 Nm one of the 2 bleed screws on both the nearside & offside front callipers stripped the threads before reaching the torque of 20 Nm. All 4 bleed screws on the back callipers held the torque plus the other 2 bleed screws on the front offside & front nearside also held the torque.
The 2 leaking bleed screws on the front callipers are leaking quite badly.
My question is how do I stop the brake fluid with the steel brake lines? On my old classic turbo with rubber brake hoses I would just wrap a cloth around the brake hose & pinch it lightly with a mole grips to stem the flow of brake fluid but as mentioned the Wr1 has steel brake lines?
Also when I remove the calliper to take them to the machine shop for re-drilling which could possibly take a couple of days depending how busy they are the brake fluid will leak even worse. Don’t want to lose all the new fluid & have to bleed my master cylinder to boot
Is there a trick you can use with steel braided lines to prevent losing all your brake fluid & introducing air into the closed system? The only thing I could think of would be swap lines over to spare set of callipers while repair ongoing but don’t have a spare set. There has to be a wee trick ????
Also what is the preferred size of nipple & drill out size for this job?
Much appreciated.
Cheers Paul
I have just changed out the brake fluid on my WR1 with Brembo callipers. On completion of the job when torqueing the calliper bleed screws to the recommended toque of 20 Nm one of the 2 bleed screws on both the nearside & offside front callipers stripped the threads before reaching the torque of 20 Nm. All 4 bleed screws on the back callipers held the torque plus the other 2 bleed screws on the front offside & front nearside also held the torque.
The 2 leaking bleed screws on the front callipers are leaking quite badly.
My question is how do I stop the brake fluid with the steel brake lines? On my old classic turbo with rubber brake hoses I would just wrap a cloth around the brake hose & pinch it lightly with a mole grips to stem the flow of brake fluid but as mentioned the Wr1 has steel brake lines?
Also when I remove the calliper to take them to the machine shop for re-drilling which could possibly take a couple of days depending how busy they are the brake fluid will leak even worse. Don’t want to lose all the new fluid & have to bleed my master cylinder to boot
Is there a trick you can use with steel braided lines to prevent losing all your brake fluid & introducing air into the closed system? The only thing I could think of would be swap lines over to spare set of callipers while repair ongoing but don’t have a spare set. There has to be a wee trick ????
Also what is the preferred size of nipple & drill out size for this job?
Much appreciated.
Cheers Paul
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
https://www.automec.co.uk/products/b...-blanking-plug
On the basis that you are going to have to top the fluid up and bleed all 4 calipers anyway, I would just replace all the fluid. Brake fluid is cheap.
On the basis that you are going to have to top the fluid up and bleed all 4 calipers anyway, I would just replace all the fluid. Brake fluid is cheap.
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Me too. When my rears had to go to Godspeed for Helicoiling, I wrapped the end of the pipe tightly in a thick plastic bag and tapped it over the brake pipe. I still lost a goodly amount of fluid but not all.
Rather £20 worth of new fluid than damage the brake pipes and then find that replacement costs £100! Because they don't always come off as they should, trust me
Rather £20 worth of new fluid than damage the brake pipes and then find that replacement costs £100! Because they don't always come off as they should, trust me
#5
https://www.automec.co.uk/products/b...-blanking-plug
On the basis that you are going to have to top the fluid up and bleed all 4 calipers anyway, I would just replace all the fluid. Brake fluid is cheap.
On the basis that you are going to have to top the fluid up and bleed all 4 calipers anyway, I would just replace all the fluid. Brake fluid is cheap.
Thanks for the reply Technoplug.
Yip replacing the fluid is fine but it is a pain to have to do it every time you break into the brake system. Would be really handy if you could remove the brake line & install a blank banjo type fitting before losing all your fluid & have to bleed the master cylinder to boot. Or some other sort of blanking system.
The blank fitting you refer to in the link being 10 mm with a 1.0 mm thread pitch. I am guessing that this is the banjo bolt size & thread pitch on the brembo (will find off when I take it off tomorrow & measure it)? So using this female blank plug, with original banjo bolt & the 2 copper washer would seal the deal? No pun intended .
Cheers Paul
Last edited by Paulgeorge01; 08 January 2018 at 12:39 AM. Reason: The penny dropped
#6
#7
Me too. When my rears had to go to Godspeed for Helicoiling, I wrapped the end of the pipe tightly in a thick plastic bag and tapped it over the brake pipe. I still lost a goodly amount of fluid but not all.
Rather £20 worth of new fluid than damage the brake pipes and then find that replacement costs £100! Because they don't always come off as they should, trust me
Rather £20 worth of new fluid than damage the brake pipes and then find that replacement costs £100! Because they don't always come off as they should, trust me
Thanks for reply Alcazar.
Cheers Paul
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