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Boiling in the overflow?? Please help!!!

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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 11:05 PM
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Default Boiling in the overflow?? Please help!!!

Hi people, I have recently bought a 98 uk turbo 2000. I have been having issues with it boiling up in the overflow tank behind the passenger headlight. I have since changed the radiator as it was leaking, changed the thermostat as the seal was shot, sniff tested the header tank for gases ( didn't change colour at all ) flushed the whole system out and found both banjo bolts on the turbo blocked so removed turbo and cleaned, cleaned banjo bolts and fitted new washers, refilled coolant system and bled out ( as far as I'm aware ) and yet if I take it for a drive for 2 minutes when I pull up it has popped the overflow tank cap off and it throws all the coolant out. I have been scratching my head now for the past three days and can't think of anything else to check or replace other than I havnt bled it out correctly. Could someone please give me some advise and help me sort out this problem. This is my second impreza and im in no rush of selling it so I'm trying to sort the problems out 1 by 1 but this car is my daily. Since i have been carrying out this work I have been using my work van so car has not travelled anywhere whilst this problem has been happening.

Last edited by 94uk; Jul 11, 2017 at 11:31 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 11:47 PM
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If it hasn't been bled properly, alcazar's method is the accepted way to do it

Discussed in the thread

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-question.html
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 11:19 AM
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as above, theres no way to bleed the system on an impreza but back filling works. just do it slowly and dont let the water start glugging get a nice steady flow going and you should avoid any air getting in.
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 12:30 PM
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The method I use for filling without glugging is here: https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...t-filling.html it's worked a treat several times for me now.


A sniff tester can give a false negative unless the car has been driven on boost just before. When my head gaskets went the ebay sniffer test did not change colour after a bit of 'ordinary' driving, but changed straight away after a few full throttle pulls in 4th gear to get the cylinder pressure right up, and then testing immediately after at the side of the road. when I took it apart the h/gs were totally shot.

Have you noticed and black/brown sludge or film on top of the coolant in the tank?

Hopefully it's not that and a good refill can solve it.
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bazil_SW
A sniff tester can give a false negative unless the car has been driven on boost just before. When my head gaskets went the ebay sniffer test did not change colour after a bit of 'ordinary' driving, but changed straight away after a few full throttle pulls in 4th gear to get the cylinder pressure right up, and then testing immediately after at the side of the road. when I took it apart the h/gs were totally shot.
Same as mine. Although I couldn't get it to fail the sniff test at all.
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Bazil_SW
The method I use for filling without glugging is here: https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...t-filling.html it's worked a treat several times for me now.


A sniff tester can give a false negative unless the car has been driven on boost just before. When my head gaskets went the ebay sniffer test did not change colour after a bit of 'ordinary' driving, but changed straight away after a few full throttle pulls in 4th gear to get the cylinder pressure right up, and then testing immediately after at the side of the road. when I took it apart the h/gs were totally shot.

Have you noticed and black/brown sludge or film on top of the coolant in the tank?

Hopefully it's not that and a good refill can solve it.
I'll be honest I havnt tested after boosting but the tester I have used is a bluepoint kit from snap on. No sludge what so ever anywhere.
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 06:10 PM
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I will be putting it on level ground when I get home and try it again. If it's the same I will bring my tester home again tomorrow and test it once under boost.
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 06:48 PM
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In alcazars post he says rear most pipe on the header tank. Is that the pipe at the bottom of the tank or the top pipe that feeds the turbo?
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 07:32 PM
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Just did as stated and still boiling out of the overflow. Any help??? Really starting to wind me up now
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 07:35 PM
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The one that feeds the turbo.
Refill with rad cap off, when fluid comes out re-fit cap.
Then fill header tank to the top,Run car, heaters on full, top up as needed.
I ran mine on the drive till the fans kick in.
Dont forget to fill expansion tank, at least to the min mark
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 07:35 PM
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I can still assure you it's hg failure without a doubt, forget sniff test as not always works.
Pull heads apart and you will see.
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 08:27 AM
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Sadly, I have to agree.
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 08:08 PM
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Update : removed the engine and sent it off to a bloke who deals with subaru and has the right equipment for doing the head gaskets, also recommended by a friend. He has today rang me and said number 4 piston is about had it and I have metal files in my oil, so in my head I'm thinking I'm looking on a new crank, pistons ect . . . All of this is not really in my budget right now. I havnt seen the engine but will be going to see it for my own eyes on monday. He tells me I would if been receiving a noise on over run due to the piston, I have been getting a noise on over run but thought it was the gearbox. Does anybody know if all of this sounds right as he immediately ask how much Ide sell the whole car for as soon as he told me this info.

All help appreciated. I really don't want to get rid of the car but trying to find ways round all of this.
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 08:25 PM
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Who have you sent it to
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 08:27 PM
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If they are reputable you have no problems. If they arnt I'm sure you'd rather know and save yourself a lot of hassle and Money. Especially if they are trying to have your pants down. I'm not suggesting they are by the way.
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 08:36 PM
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The big end bearings will be shot by now then if that's the case and probably the crank is scored too, depending how far it's gone, all them metal shavings won't have done the rest of your engine any good including the heads.
Get some pics sent to you
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
The big end bearings will be shot by now then if that's the case and probably the crank is scored too, depending how far it's gone, all them metal shavings won't have done the rest of your engine any good including the heads.
Get some pics sent to you
Exactly what I'm thinking mate. Probably gone too far 4 me now. Does anybody know of anyone selling an engine that's good?
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 09:08 PM
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See Scott at scooby spares, he will more than likely have something suitable
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by joe v3sti
See Scott at scooby spares, he will more than likely have something suitable
Should I just Google Scooby spares? Where is he located? Do you have a direct number for him? Also could anyone tell me how much I'm looking roughly? Mine is a 98 uk turbo 2000. What other engines could I drop in it as in let's say an import engine?
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 09:28 PM
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If you go on Facebook and search scoobyspares ltd. they will come up send Scott a message I'm sure he will help if he can
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 09:30 PM
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Le at shardlow might have a suitable engine.
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by johned
Le at shardlow might have a suitable engine.
Already rang today. Got nothing
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