Hi I have a 99 impreza, suspension upgrades are BC coilovers, poly bushes and I have rear camber bolts and I am going to do the geometry on it tonight and I was just wandering if anyone knows a good fast road set up ?

 

Doing it yourself?

 

Yes I did it myself I am a mechanic and do all my own work but didnt want to use the standerd settings and was just wondering if anyone knows a good fast road set up

 

Do you have access to a proper 4-wheel alignment rig?

 

He just asked for some settings... what difference does it make to you?

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/918196-geometry-settings-3.html#post11826416

 

Yes I do have a proper 4 wheel alignment machine, that does look like a good set up but I was thinking maybe I bit more toe in? And I can't adjust my caster how can i do that? It does say on that thread that you can flip the top mounts on the bc coilovers but I don't fancy doing that, I did hear that a anti lift kit does give you more caster is that true?

 

Who's yanked your chain?

I'm interested...and concerned in case he doesn't know what he's doing.

Altering the suspension settings can lead to MIS-handling just as it can lead to better handling, it can eat tyres etc etc.

 

I do no what I'm doing I'm four wheel alignment on cars most days but only to factory settings so was just wondering if there was good set up that is tested and people use I have set the camber on the front at -1.20 both sides and the same on rear and I have set the toe at 0.50 each side on front and rear for a total toe of 1.00 on front and rear and that's toe in as I spoke to impreza specialist who tunes my car and he said you want a lot of toe in on the front and rear and obviously as much castor as you can get as well but I can not adjust the castor on this

 

IIRC you have slightly less natural caster in the classic chassis vs newage before you start playing around. However, in a newage I've got (from memory) about 6.5 deg with 1.6 deg camber up front. The rear is sitting at 1.9deg camber, and zero toe using whiteline bolts in the upper holes.

To get this I have the following:
- Flipped BC mounting plates. Doing this gives a slight reduction in max static camber but allows an extra 1.5deg of caster, which increases dynamic camber when turning (when you want it to be there). The top mounts are then slid as far back as they can go.
- CDF ALK
- Flipped mounting pins on the wishbones (if you've got steel wishbones on the classic you may not be able to do this).
- Ride height is about 15mm lower than stock STI.

There is zero issue with swapping the BC mounting plates from Left to Right and vice versa, they're identical in terms of how they fit, it just changes the orientation of the slots that the top mounts slide in.

 

Is there any chance you could send me pics of the top mounts rotated please?

 

I can't easily find a pic from work but here's a pic from another thread on here:

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...l#post10605123

Basically you need to remove the top mount plates, and refit them to the opposite damper (the upper face remains the upper face) and, thanks to the bolt positions, you can set them so that the track the top mount slides in is 45 degrees to the opposite strut tower rather than in line with it.

 

oh right I get it and then you just have to use camber bolts to adjust camber instead?

 

You can, but by having it at 45 deg to the centre line like that you get both camber and caster adjustment, just not independent of each other. The front strut has camber bolts anyway so I've maxed the strut tops out so that they're as equal as they can be and then used the camber bolt on the strut to even out camber side to side.

Another trick to increasing camber/caster or at least balancing the figures left to right is to loosen the rear wishbone mounting bolts (the ALK basically) and push the brackets outwards as far as they can go in the slotted mounting holes.