Hello
I fight with so anoin problem - Overboost in my WRX 2005 UK. I try resolve by myself but now i have no more ideas where is te problem. Around 3 weeks ago i See my car is not to fast and the power is gone. I check boost gauge and maximum boost on every gears is 0.5 bar. I check everything but i cant find nothing. I restart ECU and After this my car get to much boost. When i driving and push power to end boost is Around 1.2, 1,6 in peek! For example i drive on M25 at the night, is quiet gear 4, 4k RPM, When i Just touch pedal i See boost jump over 1.5 Bar...

What i do:
- i replace solenoid boost control almost Brand New
- check actuator, pump into air by compressor, actuator easy open at 0.6 Bar
- pump 1.5 bar inside boost line - pull out hoses from boost source at turbo charger and connect compressor before restrictor -actuator open at 0.6-0.7 Bar, no any leek, boost line keep 1.5Bar
- today i replace all hoses for new high Quality + plastic connectors, try in test mode solenoid open and close, so working good
- clean actuator is good Condition, no leek, easy open and close

So, today i test again and nothing change.... So i Just like ask about any help please
Maybe somebody from London can help me?

Thanks

 

Has it been mapped for the mods,has it been decatted?

 

Everything is stock, i never remap or do any tuning. I Just add boost gauge but Around 10 month ago and was good no problem. I dont know why actuator dont cut boost when is more like 0.7, When i pump using compressor actuator open

 

Have you removed the wee brass pill out the hose going to turbo when you changed the hose

 

I swap restrictor pill to new hoses, i use same size of hoses

 

Have you checked all inlet pipework , ?

 

Faulty map sensor. Check it in live data

 

MAF sensor? The maf sensor is rosponsible for intake air but i think not for turbo boost line? Maybe i wrong any way there is no any foult code, but i go now to connect computer and i try Read live data...

 

I back from test ride, MAF show me from 12 to 72 g/s

 

Hi, he said the MAP sensor that measures the manifold pressure.

 

So sorry,
I check and looks like working fine, if is intake pressure in Torque i read 6.5-45 Psi

 

Is it a good quality boost gauge?

 

wastegate on the turbo might be sticking open

 

Sure did 👍

 

Gauge Electronic Defi, but Torque app show same value. I try check wastegate maybe block, but if is open that should be lower pressure?

 

yes sorry, wastegate would be closed if overboosting - its been a looooong day

 

Yes i try check wastegate maybe sizing... But When i move actuator arm is moving easy... But i have to check what is inside.

 

Simple fault to diagnose.
1, run pipe from compressor directly to actuator, road test and confirm actuator, WG and associated parts are functioning as they should. If ok:
2, you have either a piping/restrictor pill issue (probably this) or your ecu and wiring is at fault, ie bad earth, map sensor or broken wire. As you say the boost control solenoid is fine.

 

Hi,
Sorry for late answer but i was busy...
OK i test today, Just run pipe with out restrictor pill from compressor to actuator and working ok, cut boost at 0.5 Bar on all gears, so WG ok, solenoid tested in test mode open and close well, pipes news, MAP sensor show pressure well, and in that issue i think ECU not send signal to solenoid, and solenoid stay close, wastegates is a emergency boost cut and should open around 1.6 but solenoid should open in my car at Around 1Bar, so MAP sensor i think send good data to Ece but ECU dont send any signal to solenoid...
That make sense?

 

Does sound like an ecu problem then. Replacement ecu required?

 

the solenoid doesn't have an open/closed state depending on what boost your at. It runs constantly opening and closing at different rates (like a wave). The more it bleeds off pressure the higher your manifold pressure should become.

The 05 boost control loop is much better than the early cars and should be able to handle a little overshoot without problems. If your boosting that high I would still be suspecting a vac pipe leak or a faulty solenoid. Have you tested it whilst blowing through the pipe at the same time?

For the price of a 2port solenoid these days it would be cheaper to try that first before switching the ECU and getting the keys recoded (in my opinion)