Front wheelspin under full throttle hawkeye rb320
Hi there as the title reads front wheels are spinning up when changing up from 1st to 2nd under full throttle , will a WALK kit solve this is that what there for?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
My Bugeye will spin its (newish) Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric F1s fronts in 3rd when stabbing the gas at the start of an overtake.
But at 165k miles and with 332 torques, the centre diff probably isn't as strapping as it used to be.
I have pirellis on the front , nearly new not sure what exact model tho , my setup it MD321v, full decat down pipe and centre section , hks power flow , equal length headers & had a new exedy clutch fitted now long back .. Not sure what power it's running as I've not mapped it yet , could be 320, 350 but definitely can't see it being more than 400.. Just need to get rid of the wheel spin ,, basically boot it & and the front of the car lifts ,back dips down and its spinning front wheels then change up to third , say it's only running 330 now and it's doing this when I map it for 390/400 it's gonna be n awful lot worse. And this is with the diff set it in auto', should I use another setting ? Many thanks
Last edited by Fuj rb; Dec 28, 2014 at 01:01 AM. Reason: Diff setting
For a start you shouldn't be driving it anywhere near like that.. You'll deffo fk the engine.. If not already... Common practice is to stay of boost until it's mapped..
If you've already been spinning the wheels with mods that hasn't been to.. I fear you could have done damage to the engine already...
If you've already been spinning the wheels with mods that hasn't been to.. I fear you could have done damage to the engine already...
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Your defo gonna be getting a lot more than 320 with that setup even unmapped
Plus if it's not forged it will likey not survive very long
At this stage wheel spin is the least of your worries
Get bit mapped if it's forged if it's not forged and your not planning on getting it done get a more sensible turbo
Drive off boost if you have to drive
This is what my mate got done to his RB by Ali burrows motorsport
He will be runnin 450 plus
Also 14mm studs and all the other bits forged
Plus if it's not forged it will likey not survive very long
At this stage wheel spin is the least of your worries
Get bit mapped if it's forged if it's not forged and your not planning on getting it done get a more sensible turbo
Drive off boost if you have to drive
This is what my mate got done to his RB by Ali burrows motorsport
He will be runnin 450 plus
Also 14mm studs and all the other bits forged
Last edited by nivek4209; Dec 28, 2014 at 08:45 AM.
I chose the equal length because I hate the burble at times , sends vibration through the car And the md321v because I got it at a price I couldn't refuse , not forged yet but will chuck some mahles & eagle rods in there in mid January .. Will the WALK kit kill the front wheel spin? Sorry for going off topic. And also the max power I'll be running is 400/410bhp , just evo fq400 power or cs400 power even , but will stand me 10/12 grand less
Last edited by Fuj rb; Dec 28, 2014 at 09:37 AM.
I'm no impreza expert by any stretch of the imagination...
You need the have the smallest turbo to fit your power requirements.. So your turbo is to big and (I think) you'll get huge lag from it.. IMHO I'd sell it and get smaller.. Just enough to achieve your power goal..
As for the white line anti lift kit.. ( assuming that's what WALK means..!). It will help stop the car lifting under acceleration and dipping under braking but not completely get rid of either.. And I don't think it will stop your front wheels spinning... Are your just the fronts are spinning?? Because being asymmetrical 4wd they ALL should spin..
You need the have the smallest turbo to fit your power requirements.. So your turbo is to big and (I think) you'll get huge lag from it.. IMHO I'd sell it and get smaller.. Just enough to achieve your power goal..
As for the white line anti lift kit.. ( assuming that's what WALK means..!). It will help stop the car lifting under acceleration and dipping under braking but not completely get rid of either.. And I don't think it will stop your front wheels spinning... Are your just the fronts are spinning?? Because being asymmetrical 4wd they ALL should spin..
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http://www.fastwrx.com/products/whit...i-lift-kit-alk
On topic though, I've never ever managed to spin any of my wheels up in a straight line unless doing a really hard launch - in which case it's a little chirp from all four then I'm off.
On my car (WRX wagon with power upgrades), fitting an anti-lift kit (along with a 'fast road' geometry setup) cured the 1st & 2nd gear understeer problem that you seem to be experiencing too.
I'm just struggling to get my head around you put pretty much one of the biggest standard location turbos on to your RB , a decat & a sh!te filter.. No mention of fueling , injectors etc not even mentioned a fuel pump . Running top mount or front .. What software ecu , oh sorry you havnt mapped it , you've just been caining it in first & second in MC D's car park trying to donut. Ill chuck some Pistons & rods in in jan then itl be as CS400 or FQ400 killa...
Good luck m8 , I'm off this thread
Good luck m8 , I'm off this thread
I'm just struggling to get my head around you put pretty much one of the biggest standard location turbos on to your RB , a decat & a sh!te filter.. No mention of fueling , injectors etc not even mentioned a fuel pump . Running top mount or front .. What software ecu , oh sorry you havnt mapped it , you've just been caining it in first & second in MC D's car park trying to donut. Ill chuck some Pistons & rods in in jan then itl be as CS400 or FQ400 killa...
Good luck m8 , I'm off this thread
Good luck m8 , I'm off this thread
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