I'm having trouble re programming my remotes after my main battery was disconnected. I've found a couple of guides on the net but neither seem to work, as the remotes either look different or require one working remote. I have 2 keys and both have lost their coding which seems to be the main issue. The batteries in the remotes are good.

The key is labelled Alpha Corp and COJ12, which is the factory key and looks like this.



Does any one know a working sequence to do this?

 

Assuming you know the PIN code for the alarm system, then the remotes can be reprogrammed as per the last section on page one of this linked document.

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads..._m30_codes.pdf

AFAIK most UK keys for newage onwards were single button.

 

Thanks for the reply, thats a useful doc, but would n't that be for the sigma alarm remote though, not the subaru key?

Key has lock and unlock button for central locking, separate fob wih one button for sigma. I lock with the key first as i found that the sigma does not activate the double locking.

 

So what vehicle are we talking about??

Yes the instruction document is for the sigma alarm which was incorporated into the key fob and the one button does all.
as I said AFAIK all UK newage cars had the alarm integrated into the key, certainly did from 2003.

You may have blown a fuse for the keyless entry module.

 

Its a 2006 hawkeye wrx. Its possible its an EU import like the car supermarkets were selling.

 

Fuse is ok as its the same one as the central locking which is working.

 

I take it you mean the central locking works when you use the key in the lock?

The keyless entry module and body integrated unit are supplied by at least 3 different fuses - 2 on the main board (engine bay) and one on the fuse board by drivers right knee.
Maybe worth checking all.

Link below is for the MY06 US version but will be similar checks for operation although fuse locations may differ slightly.
Look through the Keyless Entry System section

MY06 Security & Locks

 

Piece of cake this one mate..

Open the drivers door and remove the kickpanel rh side corner.

Identify a white connector that will be unplugged, Plug it in. Now the interior lamp should start to flash, don't worry if it doesn't. Now look on the drivers door card and press and hold the unlock button keep hold of it. Now double press the lock button then the unlock button. Do the same for both keys then release the button on the door card and unplug the block connector. your keys should now work

 

Checked all the fuses under dash and engine bay. All ok.

Rob,

Thanks for the suggestion, I followed these but no luck for either key. The interior lamp does not flash. Few clarifications required.

Should the ignition be on or off?
Should the door be open or closed?
Should the both key buttons be double pressed or just the lock button? Or do you mean the button on the door panel first?

I'm sure we are nearly there, as when this happened 4 years ago something was done with the connection under the kick panel.

 

Drivers door fully open,

No keys in the ignition.

Connect the white connector first in the kick panel.

Then with the door open press and hold the rear part of the button on the door panel. Keep hold of it DO NOT LET GO.

Then double press the unlock button on your key then the lock button on your key, then switch to a 2nd key and do the same.

YOU MAY RELEASE THE BUTTON ON THE DOOR And unplug the white connector

 

Still no luck, feeling a bit useless now. :-(

Tried both combinations.

>> Now double press the lock button then the unlock button.
>>Then double press the unlock button on your key then the lock button on your key

 

is this with the white connector plugged in

as there is no reason it shouldn't work

 

yes, the one by the accelerator pedal connected. I got my wife to check I was following the steps too. Maybe one of the modules has died?

 

The only thing I could suggest is disconnecting the battery and connecting the leads together while off the battery to discharge the circuits fully and let it rest for a while, reconnect and try again.

 

Tried disconnecting the battery positive and earthing it. Reconnected and tried again. Found that pushing the rear of the lock button did not make any noise. Locked the car with the key and unlocked and then the button would make the sound of activating the locks. Still no luck programming the keys though.

I guess I need to follow the electrical testing of the keyless entry module as this would be the obvious component to fail giving that all the locking is working fine with manual key, to find out if this unit has packed up. Although this might be tricky as the keys don't seem to do anything so I am sure the tests will fail anyway?

 

To give this thread some closure on the problems I was having programming my key remotes on my hawkeye, heres the end solution.

Before replacing the keyless module, I thought I'll try another brand of batteries first as these are a lot cheaper than even a second hand module.

The first batteries measured this on my tester, which is why I ended up wasting a lot of time.




The second batteries measured this on my tester, and once programmed following robs guide, worked first time on both keys.



The exact programming steps for the Alpha corp keys were not elsewhere on the net. So here to confirm an idiots guide how to program the keys.

I'd like to thank you guys for the help on this thread (especially Rob84 ). I'm hoping you can help me again on my other thread...Bleeding ABS on hatchback WRX

 

Glad you got sorted in the end, I'll take a look at another thread.

 

Hi. Its my first post here guys so Big Hello to everyone!
My Scooby is from JDM it's hawkeye Impreza STi. Been looking for extra key fob and could not find the way of programming new fobs anywhere. Here i find my solution. Thank you.

 

Tonight my Subaru Forrester (2004) failed to lock with the key-fob (it’s the Alpha-corp coj12 - ce0891) and because of the immobiliser I couldn’t re-start it. Manual locking-unlocking had no effect. Luckily I wasn’t far from home and walked back. I suspect the battery died in the fob. I replaced the battery in my second key a while back and it never worked since - so I am worried that if I replace the battery in this key it too will become inactive. Since you seem to have had recent key problems with the same (or similar) key what can you tell me about the effect of replacing the key battery??

 

Message IMMOTEC on here mate he will sort you out 👍 btw people thank god for IMMOTEC as I was getting quoted silly prices for a spare key and he sorted it for a ver reasonable cost

 

Thanks. How do I message someone (IMMOTEC) on this forum? What I need to know is ... if I change the battery in my key will it lose its programming in the process?? That appeared to happen when I changed the battery in the second key (the original that was in use) which dfidn't work with the new battery, so I'm worried that that will be the case with this one.

 

do you have any working keys?

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/member.php?u=150097

 

The bigger question, assuming it's a UK car, is do you know the PIN code for the alarm??

If you do then you can re-program the keys as per the operating manual page 16
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads...m30_manual.pdf

 

No - I changed the battery in the other key a few years and it hasn't worked since. This was the only working one (so now the car is "dead", parked OK about a mile from home (on a very cold dark night on an unlit lane)

 

Unfortunately I didn't get the PIN code when I bought the car around 9 years ago. Can you think of any other way, not using the PIN?

 

Thanks for the link - I read through that, and it infers that if the key-fob stops working then just change the battery and it should just start working again. That's what happened with the second key, which I had been using regularly and I thought I would change the battery - but it stopped working altogether when I did that and I started using the second (back up) key. I meant to take it to the local Subaru dealer (where I used to get it serviced when it [and I] was younger) to get them to check the keys/batteries, but didn't get around to it - now regretting that.
I think I'll change the battery anyway - if I can find anything open that sells them (in Lockdown), or get a pal who has a garage (who now services it) to come and fetch it on his rescue truck and see if he can solve it. Daylight will make a difference.

 

Only with a working keyfob as detailed on this page
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...RemoteControls

Without the PIN or a working keyfob, you are reduced to either getting the original PIN code from Subaru and hope it wasn't changed, or employing a Sigma/Toad alarm installer to reset it.
https://www.scoobynet.com/security-1...l#post12096452

 

Thanks. I'm hoping the key has just run out of battery power and will be restored when I change the battery. I am informed that keys can become "un-synced" (what probably happened when I changed the battery in key #1) rather than lose their programming, and putting the key in and turning on the ignition, then, with the key in place, press its button a few times to restore sync. It's worth a try. I will also hunt through the handbook (in the glove compartment) yet again to see if the sticker with the PIN can be found. Once I have some daylight tomorrow I can go back and try those solutions first - what's to lose.

 

The "put key in and turn on ignition and press button" is a standard sigma feature which refers to the Sigma having re-armed itself about 30secs after unlocking the car without the engine being started.

See "Automatic Immobilisation and Starting the Vehicle" section in the Sigma operating manual

It is not a re-sync operation, although for US models fitted with their OEM Subaru Security package it may be..