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Fitting avcs heads to a classic

Old Sep 14, 2014 | 08:47 AM
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Default Fitting avcs heads to a classic

Would like some advice and thoughts on the above.

Looking at fitting avcs heads to my gc 8 rally car and hoped some one would be able to to give me a full list of what I need .

The ecu is capable of this with a upgrade ,would love to hear your thoughts pls . thank you.
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Speak to Tim at jti for harness
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 11:24 AM
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As above speak with Tim@JT Innovations about the harness and depends on the ECU which you are running on SimTek/AlcaTek you will need update,if you are running Syvecs then this should be straight forward

Thanks,Jura
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 11:43 AM
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Believe we spoke on Friday Jon and thanks for the recommendations guys

I don't think there's anything out-of-the-ordinary involved when you fit the AVCS heads to a classic - remove old heads, new head gaskets, fit new heads. Change cambelt while you're at it, and check tensioners maybe?

Depending on the age/condition of the heads I guess they might need the shims checking?

I'm sure others who have done this will comment shortly
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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Currently doing this to my classic.

You will need an aftermarket ECU (my Alcatek needed to be modified for vvt,)

AVCS loom, you can butcher a new age AVCS loom, or just buy a tailor made one from JT innovations like I did.

A newage crank pulley

Obviously a mapping session.

And any other usual parts associated with removing heads, gaskets/oil etc
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cookstar
newage crank pulley
Ah! Didn't know that - useful information

Last edited by TimH; Sep 14, 2014 at 07:24 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TimH
Ah! Didn't know that - useful information



Do I get a discount on my toucan now?

How's my hybrid loom coming along?
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cookstar
How's my hybrid loom coming along?
Aha! Another S/Net name matched to a customer name

First job tomorrow
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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Excellent, thanks.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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Digging up an old thread, but better than starting a new one...

I've been contemplating getting AVCS heads for my MY98 STi. It seems to be a win/win for performance and ecomony.
Can someone knowledgeable on the subject give a breakdown on what is needed? A complete list, including heads, oils etc.

And please assume I know absolutely nothing and make it plain English please

Oh and a rough idea on how long it takes to fit everything, so I can include the labour charge in my calculations.

Thanks in advance.

PS. My car is MY98 STi, with 3in decat, and simtec (I think) ECU, remapped to approx 310bhp.

Last edited by Lunchmoney; Dec 4, 2014 at 04:51 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Lunchmoney
Digging up an old thread, but better than starting a new one...

I've been contemplating getting AVCS heads for my MY98 STi. It seems to be a win/win for performance and ecomony.
Can someone knowledgeable on the subject give a breakdown on what is needed? A complete list, including heads, oils etc.

And please assume I know absolutely nothing and make it plain English please

Oh and a rough idea on how long it takes to fit everything, so I can include the labour charge in my calculations.

Thanks in advance.

Currently doing this to my classic.

Heads from a newage sti (bug onwards)

You will need an aftermarket ECU (my Alcatek needed to be modified for vvt,)

AVCS loom, you can butcher a new age AVCS loom, or just buy a tailor made one from JT innovations like I did.

A newage crank pulley

Obviously a mapping session.

Headgasket will have to be tailored to your block/head combo, so speak to a specialist before buying
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 05:45 PM
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Be warned, the AVCS solenoid will catch on the side feed injector caps, and the standard position fpr will get right in the way to.

We had to spin the injectors and grind some off the cap to get around this problem, also had an extra piece braised in the fuel line to extend the FPR away from the rail. But I very much doubt your using the original FPR Banny?

All this, and we had to switch AVCS off during mapping, as one of the cables had been pulled out off a solenoid plug. still got lots of extra torques to look forward to after next mapping session.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
Currently doing this to my classic.

Heads from a newage sti (bug onwards)

You will need an aftermarket ECU (my Alcatek needed to be modified for vvt,)

AVCS loom, you can butcher a new age AVCS loom, or just buy a tailor made one from JT innovations like I did.

A newage crank pulley

Obviously a mapping session.

Headgasket will have to be tailored to your block/head combo, so speak to a specialist before buying
Will your old inlet fannymould from the Type R fit? I thought the inlet had to be changed as well?
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:10 AM
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Yes it will but i am going top feed so easier to swap over to a newage one Dunk
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:02 AM
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Just to add a bit more info, if it's a V1-4 the inlet bolt pattern is differn't to the avcs heads, also the cam belt covers (front and back) are larger. The new age crank pulley isn't relevant to the avcs, it's to do with which ecu you run, all GC8's have a smaller number of trigger teeth than the new age cars. You would need to speak to your mapper regarding the ecu side of it, I converted a V5 engined rally car, it ran a Motec ecu and we just had to get Motec to upgrade the ecu to control the avcs. The front pulley stayed as it was. Then apart from the mechanical changes we just ran wiring from the heads to the ecu.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
Yes it will but i am going top feed so easier to swap over to a newage one Dunk
Thought that was the case but was hoping there was some kind of adaptor or something that would make them compatable, obviously not lol.

Out of curiosity, which version of newage Fannymould is the easiest to reverse, I'm away to have yet another change of plans by the look of it lol
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RA Dunk
Thought that was the case but was hoping there was some kind of adaptor or something that would make them compatable, obviously not lol.

Out of curiosity, which version of newage Fannymould is the easiest to reverse, I'm away to have yet another change of plans by the look of it lol
its a subaru nothing is ever simple, you should know this by now Anything pre dbw is best to work with, gussy has pics of his spec c engine fitted with a reversed newage inlet.

Also to answer an earlier point, the reasoning behind using a newage crank trigger is because the G10 wheel does not work with the G11 cam sensor.

To quote Pat

"There is currently no support for G10 crank / G11 cam combination. The G10 crank pattern has no unique features to key off so it has to use the cam for that. The G11 crank pattern HAS got unique features so you can key off it and that means Manual Cam Checklist is possible so you can have pretty much any cam pattern with it. Will have a look to see how much effort it would be to add a custom G10/11 pattern. Note however that the G10 pattern is deprecated like the Evo 4G63 pattern. Both are good examples of not to generate a timing signal. The G11 pattern is far better, so would recommend swapping the wheel"
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:59 PM
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Cheers Banny, Off to scour Gussys project thread for pictures!
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RA Dunk
Cheers Banny, Off to scour Gussys project thread for pictures!
Found this pic for quick reference

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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
its a subaru nothing is ever simple, you should know this by now Anything pre dbw is best to work with, gussy has pics of his spec c engine fitted with a reversed newage inlet.

Also to answer an earlier point, the reasoning behind using a newage crank trigger is because the G10 wheel does not work with the G11 cam sensor.

To quote Pat

"There is currently no support for G10 crank / G11 cam combination. The G10 crank pattern has no unique features to key off so it has to use the cam for that. The G11 crank pattern HAS got unique features so you can key off it and that means Manual Cam Checklist is possible so you can have pretty much any cam pattern with it. Will have a look to see how much effort it would be to add a custom G10/11 pattern. Note however that the G10 pattern is deprecated like the Evo 4G63 pattern. Both are good examples of not to generate a timing signal. The G11 pattern is far better, so would recommend swapping the wheel"
Hi Banny

You can use classic crank pulley with AVCS without the issue,just mapper needs to spend bit more time on mapping and do manual checklist if he using Syvecs,on SimTek or other ECU on this I'm not sure,but should be very similar,we are run on our 2.35L classic crank pulley(G10) which has been later on swapped for New age one(G11)

Depends on more factors,but this shouldn't be issue for most mappers

Thanks,Jura
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jura11
Hi Banny

You can use classic crank pulley with AVCS without the issue,just mapper needs to spend bit more time on mapping and do manual checklist if he using Syvecs,on SimTek or other ECU on this I'm not sure,but should be very similar,we are run on our 2.35L classic crank pulley(G10) which has been later on swapped for New age one(G11)

Depends on more factors,but this shouldn't be issue for most mappers

Thanks,Jura
Nice one Jura must have been updated from when Pat posted that but given the choice, I would always have the G11 trigger makes starting easier
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
Found this pic for quick reference

Cheers Banny, I just spent ten minutes trying to find his project thread then realised he didn't have one lol

What inlet is that? is it just a case of reversing it or is there any trickery involved?
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RA Dunk
Cheers Banny, I just spent ten minutes trying to find his project thread then realised he didn't have one lol

What inlet is that? is it just a case of reversing it or is there any trickery involved?
That looks to be a spec c one piece inlet but im going to be using a UK one with tgv deletes, pretty much a case of reversing but if you really wanted to get fancy you could make a wedge to make the tb point a little further down giving more clearence from the bonnet
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:41 PM
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Cheers Banny, Just when I had my mind settled on going a certain direction I've just thrown a spanner in the works and completely changed my mind again. lol
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RA Dunk
Cheers Banny, Just when I had my mind settled on going a certain direction I've just thrown a spanner in the works and completely changed my mind again. lol
Errrm glad to have helped I think
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 01:20 AM
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How much does it cost to add the AVCS board/function to a Simtek/Alcatek? I think you must use 20mm inlet manifold spacers to clear the AVCS solenoids if you want to use a V5 inlet.
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbovin
How much does it cost to add the AVCS board/function to a Simtek/Alcatek? I think you must use 20mm inlet manifold spacers to clear the AVCS solenoids if you want to use a V5 inlet.
The modification on my Alcatek cost £50 for AVCS.
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbovin
How much does it cost to add the AVCS board/function to a Simtek/Alcatek? I think you must use 20mm inlet manifold spacers to clear the AVCS solenoids if you want to use a V5 inlet.
I did consider using thick spacers, but was concerned with affecting the injector spray.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RA Dunk
Cheers Banny, I just spent ten minutes trying to find his project thread then realised he didn't have one lol

What inlet is that? is it just a case of reversing it or is there any trickery involved?
Just seen this dunk just to clear things up its a complete spec-c engine which has gone in my classic so it was just a case of rotating the one piece manifold.
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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 03:42 PM
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So just to confirm, to fit AVCS heads on my already rotated inlet, I need to swap my inlet to a V5 unit?

EDIT - My car is a V3 with V3 rotated inlet.

so check list -

Wiring loom
Alkatec is already going in for upgrade
Heads, Inc pulleys and cam covers
Longer timing belt covers
V5 Inlet

Last edited by JGlanzaV; Jun 4, 2015 at 03:43 PM.
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