Think I've used too much gasket maker on sump?
#1
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Think I've used too much gasket maker on sump?
I've just bolted my sump back on with a baffle plate fitted. Also used a gasket between the plate and sump.
I think I may have overused the instant gasket (1215). I got a bit fed up with the job and had oh 'oh sod it' moment which I'm now regretting.
The instructions picture an engine out of the car and upside down - I did it with the engine jacked up off it's mounts a bit and minimal clearance... a proper test of patience! My 1215 didn't have any kind of tip to get a small bead (can you get it with a tip?) so I ended up smearing it on to the flat surfaces trying to take excess off with a latex glove. Even if I could get a bead on to the sump, it'd end up dripping down with the engine being upside down.
I tightened the sump bolts up to 10nm and they pulled the sump in toward the block a bit more than I was expecting so I'm thinking I've possibly squashed quite a bit of 1215 out, maybe on the inside? - need an endoscope!
I'm now at the point of either pulling it off again to see how it went... or trusting the job and running the car. My biggest concern is that a squashed out bit will escape and find its way in to an oil pickup somewhere.
Opinions welcome!
I think I may have overused the instant gasket (1215). I got a bit fed up with the job and had oh 'oh sod it' moment which I'm now regretting.
The instructions picture an engine out of the car and upside down - I did it with the engine jacked up off it's mounts a bit and minimal clearance... a proper test of patience! My 1215 didn't have any kind of tip to get a small bead (can you get it with a tip?) so I ended up smearing it on to the flat surfaces trying to take excess off with a latex glove. Even if I could get a bead on to the sump, it'd end up dripping down with the engine being upside down.
I tightened the sump bolts up to 10nm and they pulled the sump in toward the block a bit more than I was expecting so I'm thinking I've possibly squashed quite a bit of 1215 out, maybe on the inside? - need an endoscope!
I'm now at the point of either pulling it off again to see how it went... or trusting the job and running the car. My biggest concern is that a squashed out bit will escape and find its way in to an oil pickup somewhere.
Opinions welcome!
#2
I done this with a c20let vauxhall engine years ago used instant gasket plus the gasket but used too much. But luckily for me the sump didn't seal so took it off again and there was instant gasket in the oil pick up, nearly was blocked so I had a lucky escape.
Mark
Mark
#3
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Problem on this one is I can't see how I can do a 'better' job - it's so awkward!
Although I've just looked at eBay and seen that most threebond does come with a tip.
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There is no point putting more compound in than is likely to stop in when the joint is nipped up. However much you have squeezed out on the outside I would expect to see the same on the inside. You'll have to decide if you think it's too much, if you do, take it apart, clean it up and be much more sparing with the compound next time.
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Well, I've just gone and pulled the sump back off. Yes, a bit too much in places. Might have gotten away with it - I had more excess outside than inside but still a couple of lumps that might have escaped.
However - the 'pulling in' I described was the sump flange being pulled in to the gasket I used! Actually used a torque wrench set to 10nm but it's enough to have bent it out of shape.
Looks like a new sump is now required, I think I'll skip the gasket this time.
However - the 'pulling in' I described was the sump flange being pulled in to the gasket I used! Actually used a torque wrench set to 10nm but it's enough to have bent it out of shape.
Looks like a new sump is now required, I think I'll skip the gasket this time.
#6
no gasket required. just threebond. if you use a gasket (cork for example) you will have to add more washers/spacing to the return pipe. waste of time.
I just straightened a bent lip on my sump and fitted with three bond. no leaks.
I just straightened a bent lip on my sump and fitted with three bond. no leaks.
#7
And this folks is why I always suggest to get a garage to do this job if not removing the engine.
People may have mocked me before for suggesting it, but for £100 you can't go wrong, no struggling, no mess, no fuss and if it goes wwrong and it bends or doesn't seal etc they have to deal with it FOC.
You've used more than £100 in time, let alone if you need a new pan etc!
People may have mocked me before for suggesting it, but for £100 you can't go wrong, no struggling, no mess, no fuss and if it goes wwrong and it bends or doesn't seal etc they have to deal with it FOC.
You've used more than £100 in time, let alone if you need a new pan etc!
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And this folks is why I always suggest to get a garage to do this job if not removing the engine.
People may have mocked me before for suggesting it, but for £100 you can't go wrong, no struggling, no mess, no fuss and if it goes wwrong and it bends or doesn't seal etc they have to deal with it FOC.
You've used more than £100 in time, let alone if you need a new pan etc!
People may have mocked me before for suggesting it, but for £100 you can't go wrong, no struggling, no mess, no fuss and if it goes wwrong and it bends or doesn't seal etc they have to deal with it FOC.
You've used more than £100 in time, let alone if you need a new pan etc!
I just happen to have an interest in doing it myself. Even the guy in the garage had to do it for the first time.
It's something else I'm getting the hang of. If you have a look at my post times it's a shade over a half hour to lift the engine and remove the sump, including the time it took to write the post.
This one caught me on a cold, wet and grumpy day. It probably would've gone OK if I'd not gotten in a strop about not having a nozzle for the gasket maker and made some ill fated, cack handed attempt to do it with my finger
I do have to concede that it's cost me a sump. Lesson learned.
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I debated fitting my baffle plate for months, eventually the horror stories scared me off and I had a garage do it. Quite a relaxing experience, really :P
If you go without a gasket, just bead the sealant on the sump as that will be staying upright, then just offer it up to the engine. No need for upside down sealing in that scenario.
If you go without a gasket, just bead the sealant on the sump as that will be staying upright, then just offer it up to the engine. No need for upside down sealing in that scenario.
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A lot of the horror stories revolve around access to the rear 4 bolts behind the cross member. I've got scrawny hands and monkey fingers so this bit was no biggy - just a case of making up the right socket extension. I found a long reach 10mm socket guided on, then a flexi joint then a long extension got on it no fuss.
I just made a hash of the other bit
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Right - all fitted, oil tight and showing good pressures. Phew. Going to run this oil around for a couple of trips to work then change it out to see if any 'bits' have escaped.
I can now safely say that I could repeat that job in a decent amount of time. I'd go as far to say that if it was JUST the sump I'd now consider it quite straight forward having done it once.
However, the baffle plate makes it a complete swine, especially on your own. Just getting it all to hold still and mate up whilst gravity against you is infuriating.
For the sake of anybody attempting this themselves, I'd recommend doing something I didn't think of at the time.
Grab some thread metal and make up 4 studs that you can loosely put in to the bolt holes in the block. This will help you guide the baffle plate and sump up in line and minimise any sideways movement that may mess up your bead of sealant. Then pop the first few bolts in and replace the studs with bolts.
I can now safely say that I could repeat that job in a decent amount of time. I'd go as far to say that if it was JUST the sump I'd now consider it quite straight forward having done it once.
However, the baffle plate makes it a complete swine, especially on your own. Just getting it all to hold still and mate up whilst gravity against you is infuriating.
For the sake of anybody attempting this themselves, I'd recommend doing something I didn't think of at the time.
Grab some thread metal and make up 4 studs that you can loosely put in to the bolt holes in the block. This will help you guide the baffle plate and sump up in line and minimise any sideways movement that may mess up your bead of sealant. Then pop the first few bolts in and replace the studs with bolts.
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