Konan

I'm about to fit an RCM baffle plate to my bug. The instructions are straight forward enough in an 'engine out' situation, with the engine flipped over and dropping the sump on to it.

I've had a good read around and got a fair bit of info on doing the sump in situ. Unbolt engine and raise it an inch or so, shouldn't need to unbolt any exhaust parts etc although it's a fiddle.

Daft question first. If using 1215 gasket maker, as per OEM, how far does a tube go? Will 1 tube be enough to seal crankcase-baffle and baffle-sump? I'd buy 2 tubes to be sure but it's £20 so an expensive 'spare' if it isn't needed.

I'm also considering the awkwardness of doing this upsidedown. Getting it all sandwiched together without excess movement of the gasket material. It looks simple enough if you're just refitting a sump, but sandwiching the plate in means lining up two layers. It also means potentially applying the bead to the crankcase upside down too.

Any milage in using cork gaskets that ICP do? I see they also supply 1215 with it but I assume you just add this as a belt and braces film rather than a bead?

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

I have fitted a new sump and it was a massive pain in the ****.

I did it by jacking the engine up but it was still hassle getting the old one out and new one in and that's with the manifold heat shields removed as I cut mine off and binned them!

The four bolts at the rear are very very difficult to get to and even harder to get back in as your can't guide them (no finger room). The dipstick tube had rusted in place and was a pig to get out and even harder to get back in. After cleaning the rust from the end of the tube it then wouldn't seal and I had to use sealant on the o-rings.

One tube of sealant did my sump, a rocker cover and lots of odd jobs since then and there is still loads left.

It is not a job I would do again with the engine in situ.

Konan

Engine out would be difficult as my garage isn't long enough to move a hoist backwards after lifting it.

Could possible support the engine and drop the x-member if that'd make life easier?

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Fitted a baffled sump to my classic a few months back, I chose to pull the engine after hearing the horror stories. Really didn't fancy making all that effort then ending up with leaker.
There is a you tube walk through how to that makes it look easy.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

I didn't remove the modine pipe or filter. However maybe it would have been easier if I had done so.

One thing to add the video. Don't trust the jack! The engine is only held up by the jack in that video and if it fails while your fingers are up there then bye bye fingers. Jam a thin bit of wood or wad of paper (i used a think but small note pad I had laying around) between the front subframe and engine mount once you jack the engine and have a gap. Then if the jack fails the gap remains as will your digits.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

I undid the modine on my classic while the engine was out and hanging on a crane. On a classic the modine restricts access to some of the bolts. I used a cork gasket instead of rtv
Have bought the plate yet?

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

I paid Alan@ET to do mine.... Way less stress and hassle to deal with it that way than have to **** around by yurself

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Just a heads up, AS performance do a "clubmans" baffled oil pan on an exchange basis. Very reasonably priced too.

Konan

It really doesn't look too bad from that. Although there's possibly 7 1/2 hours of missing footage in which he actually refits the sump

I was thinking of using an engine beam also.

The thought has crossed my mind. Spoke to a local Subaru tech who reckons cost-wise I'd be better off doing the job myself. I don't use the car daily so time is on my side at least!

Yes, I have the plate. It doesn't look like a complicated enough item to 'cause any hassle

I suppose a cork gasket engine->plate would help when lining the sump back up as it would eliminate the worry of excess movement on the RTV leading to a poor seal. Could then use RTV on sump to plate. I guess it needs to go in and then get held by a few bolts that are easy to fit and then tackle the monsters at the back.

Either way... as long as the parts to hand I guess I can test fit before applying the gunk.

I've not gotten as far as taking the tray off yet... what's the bests I've got a crusty sump anyway? - In which case I'll have a look at this baffled item, although an exchange wouldn't be on the cards.

Also fitting a pressure gauge. This is born of my paranoia over a corner at Snetterton. Not sure why I'm worrying, I drive so slowly on track at the moment I'm not sure I reach the same Gs as you do on a merry-go-round!

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

How much do the subaru guys want to do it?

Mine was done at a very reasonable price, and to be honest for the money it wasnt worth me messing around with it!

edsel

iTrader: (2)

It was a track day with a freshly built engine that made me paranoid, hence the baffled sump. Several people I spoke too thought the plates were pointless. Lack of oil under the pick up pipe is the killer on long bends.

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

A baffled sump and a killer b oil pick up is what you want

jazzyjembreaze

iTrader: (11)

Sure is

Konan

As I understand it, it's the upright sections on the plate that are key in the Cosworth/RCM plates. Under high G, dhe oil returning from the heads doesn't always manage to find its way back to the sump, instead it hits the crank and ends up pooling on the opposite side. The plates prevent this and instead divert the oil back towards the sump.

Or so the sales spiel goes....

The Killer B baffle doesn't look all that dissimilar to the standard one? Is it a big design improvement?

I've read about the fragile oil pickups. Plan to inspect upon removal.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

I'm no expert but my understanding is that a well designed sump will have "winadage" plates to stop the oil sloshing around and hold it under the pick up. They should also direct the returning oil back towards the pick up.

jazzyjembreaze

iTrader: (11)

^
That is a windage tray