Derby1971

Hi people,
Yes, the photoshop isn't great, i was rushed! Can you tell me if its possible to remove this pipe without removing the inlet manifold and other bits? It is from a 95 wrx ra. It has split where the small t piece comes out under the inlet, before the pipe carries on to the heater matrix. If not, can you recommend a good mobile mechanic around the Derby area? I wouldn't want to drive it while its dripping coolant. Thanks in advance.

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

Its hard to tell, I dont know how the pipework goes on a standard one as my manifold is rotated, but if it goes to the Idle control valve you can just loop it out. Ive removed it on mine,

thunder8

iTrader: (1)

heres some bad news........ that pipe goes to water pump area behind your cam belt and has 2 bolts 1 under inlet the other bolt is under the cam belt near your cams and like you said i think it T off the other end goes to your heater matrix pipes

if its the rubber part and you can,t get your fingers to it then inlet off ,if its the metal part then a big strip down i,m afraid , only no this as i helped mattyb1983 strip his ra engine yesterday

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

I am confused by which bit this is?

Is it the main hard pipe that runs from the bottom front of the engine to the back of the block? Or the rubber pipe that comes off of it? If it's the rubber pipe then you should be able to do it fine. Just may be easier to remove the intercooler.

If it's the hard pipe then you will have to remove the inlet manifold. As has been mentioned it is also bolted on behind the cam covers... however I managed to unbolt mine without taking these covers off. You just need a 1/4 socket set and ratchet spanner. Very very fiddly but can be done. Worst comes to worst you don't have to do that little bolt back up. The others will hold it fine.

Derby1971

Hi,
Thankyou for the replies. FMJ, yes it is the metal pipe that has a split in it. I managed to get some paper under the small T section that comes off and goes to the idle control valve, and its that section. I'm leaning towards calling a flatbed and getting it to Scoobyclinic or Scoobyworld. My cheap socket set and limited tech ability could make a crisis out of this drama.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Yes in that case don't attempt it

The good news is that the pipe only costs about £30 I think... But it will cost more in labor.

Derby1971

Well, I thought i'd give it a go since it was off road and i was 3 weeks from payday. It took about a week of evenings and a full weekend, but that included spraying up any brackets, the top radiator bar and the fan surrounds. Just put masking tape on anything i took off with a description of where it went, and took about 150 photo's as well.
Since i had the inlet off and was swapping the split pipe, i thought i might as well do both for the sake of £40. Got a new radiator while i was at it, so hopefully won't have any probems for a few years now!
Only thing to remember is old spring clips don't like new hoses, so i had to change them all to jubilee clips as i went.
If you have any doubts, take your time, label everything and give it a try, i sit at a computer all day and i managed it!!

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Good stuff! Think how much you saved and learnt by doing it yourself.

Also good call on replacing the radiator. The tend to crack on the end tank, and **** coolant all over.

Might have also been wise to replace the thermostat whilst you had the radiator out. You might have, but, you haven't mentioned it.

Derby1971

Hi, I didn't swap thermostat in the end, it looked quite clean. I'll be doing it at some point, i want to either get the forge header or do the upgrade to the newer header tanks. Also want to add the inlet manifold spacers as well and do newage coil conversion. Feels good to learn new things, guess i'm not too old after all!

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Swap the power steering pump/reservoir whilst you're on. Yours will start leaking. Replace it with either a facelift classic one, or a newage one with the remote reservoir.

You're never too old to learn new things.

Derby1971

Good point. I drained it and removed it during the swap, and noticed it leaking on the engine. Gave it all a clean up but its something to add to the list. Should get it done when the kids stop for the summer hols, car can be off the road for 6 weeks then

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Just to add, to fit a later header tank, you'll need to replace 2 of the pipes to it, and make a little bracket to mount it securely.

I'll get a pic to show what I mean about the bracket.

As it happens, pretty sure I've got a facelift header tank for sale. https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...-clearout.html

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

I did the swap a few years ago, did a bit of a "How To" write up on it.


https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...g-upgrade.html

Derby1971

Perfect write up, thakyou. The first couple of pics are exactly how mine looked!